Critique? What can I improve on?

wisconsinjimmy Nov 15, 2014

  1. wisconsinjimmy

    wisconsinjimmy TrainBoard Member

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    Today I finished the framing and have cut the plywood to fit and will need several days to recover, I still would like to do the DM&IR and I think I have enough room to put in an ore dock on one end and the pit on the other anyway I will take a rest and post again in a few days. Thanks for the help and ideas as well as questioning my ideas.
    Jim 16.9°F
     
  2. wisconsinjimmy

    wisconsinjimmy TrainBoard Member

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    Question,when building a modular system what is the proper way to make sure each section will connect properly? I have forgone the old coop and am taking over the small bedroom and what I will do is build a series of tables/platforms in the shop and when all done bring the system into the house/bedroom
     
  3. Eagle2

    Eagle2 Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    The easiest way would be to adapt one of the existing standards (as NTrak, TTrak or oNeTrak) where there are published standards for module sizes (somewhat, at least) and for trackwork (as far as spacing from the front, spacing between tracks and how modules are set up for connecting). Doing so should simplify the process, and as a bonus plans, construction instructions and even kits are available for most of these.
     
  4. wisconsinjimmy

    wisconsinjimmy TrainBoard Member

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    I have one leg of the lay out built and it is 8'X2', I want to use this module for a classification / sorting yard. Starting at 2" set back from the edges and then laying track 2" on center with the mainline either in the middle or on the outside edge, how do you install the switches and which switch is the best to use #4 or #6
     
  5. Kevin Anderson

    Kevin Anderson TrainBoard Member

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    #6 switches would be best. #4 switches are real tight curves. I only used them in areas such as industrial Spurs. For mainline switches on siding try to go with #8. Just depends upon the locomotives and rolling stock. How big do you want to go?


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  6. wisconsinjimmy

    wisconsinjimmy TrainBoard Member

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    How big do I want to go is in air at this time, I figure on building a modular system so for now I need to set up a classification yard which I am guessing would use the #4 switches. My mainline track would most likely go on the outside edge.
     
  7. Kevin Anderson

    Kevin Anderson TrainBoard Member

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    What I meant was how big of locos? You may have issues with the #4 switches.


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  8. wisconsinjimmy

    wisconsinjimmy TrainBoard Member

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    I will be diesel era and I might have one six axle but mostly 4
     
  9. wisconsinjimmy

    wisconsinjimmy TrainBoard Member

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    Attached is one section of my RR, just wish I could get everything in a straight line and I am using Atlas Track and AnyRail 5 software. (.any). The thru track with siding is 22" Radius and the lower class yard is 18"Radius.
    Thanks
    Jim
     
  10. wisconsinjimmy

    wisconsinjimmy TrainBoard Member

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    Using AnyRail with Atlas track I have put together a classification yard module 24"x 96", the red color is where I stretched the flex track, I tried numerous designs but none came out like I wanted which was to have the through track on the outside.

    Matt1.jpg
     
  11. Kevin Anderson

    Kevin Anderson TrainBoard Member

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    Actually the way you have it is very prototypical. The yard next to the amtrak station in Slc is similar.


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  12. wisconsinjimmy

    wisconsinjimmy TrainBoard Member

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    Where is SLC ?
     
  13. Kevin Anderson

    Kevin Anderson TrainBoard Member

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    Salt Lake City, UT


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  14. cajon

    cajon TrainBoard Member

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    It's in UT.
     
  15. Kevin Anderson

    Kevin Anderson TrainBoard Member

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    Also the NS has a yard on the east coast, the UP has a yard in Omaha, and Amtrak/Up have one in Oakland similar as well. And then the old D&RGW yard in Provo, UT.


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  16. cajon

    cajon TrainBoard Member

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    Will AnyRail let you put the first switches on the top yard on the curves? If so you'd get rid of the "S" curves there. If it won't let you, do it when you lay the tracks.
     
  17. Kevin Anderson

    Kevin Anderson TrainBoard Member

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    Another way to draw it would have each main line on the outside with the yard on the inside. Elko, NV is like this.


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  18. PaulBeinert

    PaulBeinert TrainBoard Supporter

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    Jimmy,
    The basic problem with having the through tracks on the outside is either having two long sequences of switches hanging off the main or needing to add about 18" to the overall length.

    There are a couple of weird kinks in the lower right area that should be easy to fix in AnyRail.

    As Andy mentioned, you can put the entry and exit switches on the curve for the top yard to eliminate the S curve and gain a few more inches in the yard in the top yard.
     
  19. wisconsinjimmy

    wisconsinjimmy TrainBoard Member

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    The odd kink is when I extend flex track out a bit to far it seems to want to put a kink in where the rails meet, also flex track seems to want to bend a bit when stretched. This was my first shot at the proto and I like it but it is a bit to long I can allow for 2' x8' for this module the next module which will run at 90°cannot be more then 6' in length.l
     
  20. wisconsinjimmy

    wisconsinjimmy TrainBoard Member

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    Here are a few pictures of what I am up against bear in mind I am using mostly Atlas Flex Track. This first picture gives you an idea how the module will look (2'x8') where I am getting into trouble is on the near side,

    DSCF2658.jpg

    even though the dimensions are equal the switches (9" #4) on the right near side are not lining up with the snapped lines, the far side is lined up just super but as I mentioned I am way off on the near right.

    In this picture you can see how far off I am to center yet the line is dead center on the far side.
    DSCF2659.jpg

    Here is the switch above or before the above picture a bit blurry but you can see the offset.
    DSCF2660.jpg

    What am I doing wrong?
     

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