The instruction sheet for the set is inclued Drill a 1/4” hole in the center of the Kato radiator fans. Carefully enlarge the holes with a 7/32” round file (chain saw file), remove all of the screen detail leaving only the shroud. Do the same with the cast on dynamic brake fan. Install the etched 14 center disks to the center of the 3 fan screens. I placed the fan screen on the foam found in the bottom of the Kato box and position three #11 blades against the center of the screen to form a funnel so that the center disk would fall into place. I then added some rubber cement to the end of a toothpick to pick up the center disk. Add some super glue to the back of the center disk and place it on the fan screen. Once the glue is dry install the fan screens to the top of the Kato fan shrouds. Bend the pin in the center of the 1 fan support up at 90 degrees. Install the 2 fan to the pin on the fan support and glue in place. Clip the top of the pin off flush with the top of the fan and paint the fan white. The Kato radiator pieces will have to be removed from the sides of the shell in order to install the fan supports inside the shell. Install the fan and fan support after the locomotive has been painted then reinstall the radiators. Install the dynamic brake grill 11 before painting if it is supposed to match the locomotive or install it after painting if it is to remain the natural stainless steel color, (refer to prototype photos). Sand or carve the detail off of the surface of Kato electrical box. Test fit either the 12 or 13 etched details into place. If you will be using the 13 details you can drill a 1/8” hole in the Kato shell behind the grill opening on the etched part to resemble the prototype. Glue the etched parts into place. You may choose to create the prototypical see through screens at the back of the locomotive. This will require removal of some of the metal from the mechanism frame halves. You can remove this material with a cut off wheel in a Dremel tool. I prefer a metal cutting blade in my reciprocating saw since it is quicker and does not create as much heat. I left some of the material towards the back of the truck pocket to retain the structural integrity of the Kato frames. Clean all metal shavings from the frame halves before reassembling the mechanism. Place the fret with the half etch detail side up. Push your #11 hobby blade against the tops of the wide louvers of the 8 and 9 parts bending the louvers back about 45 degrees. Remove the 8 part from the fret. Grab the bottom of the frame with tweezer nose pliers and bend the narrow bottom louver back at 45 degrees. Remove the 9 part from the fret and laminate it to the top of the 8 part. Remove the 10 part from the fret and bend it at the half etch marks so that it is shaped like a staple. From the back of the laminated 8, 9 part slide the 10 part into place and adjust any of the louvers. If you will be removing some of the material from the mechanism side frames for a see through grill you can glue the 10 part into place. If you will not be removing material from the mechanism you will need to remove the 10 part from the louvered grill assembly or the shell will not fit the mechanism. Looking at the side of the shell drill a hole in the middle of the large vent located at the rear of the long hood. Carefully trim out from the hole with a #11 hobby blade until all of the detail is removed from inside the vent leaving only the outer rim detail. Shave the outer rim detail from the surface of the shell to allow for mounting of the new etched metal part. If you are using the 8, 9, 10 combination part you will have to trim out a couple of notches at the top of the opening for the 10 bracing. The 7 part and the 8, 9 combination, will not require these notches. There is a smaller grill just in front of the conductor side large grill you have just replaced. If you use the 8, 9 or 8, 9, 10 combination louvered grill for the large grill you will also want to replace the small grill with the 16 etched part. Cut out the grill detail from the Kato shell and install the 16 part. The 15 etched part should also be used for this louvered locomotive. Carve or sand the existing door details from the back end of the locomotive shell and replace it with the 15 part. Remove the 4 mirrors and mark and drill #80 holes for the mounting pins. Glue the mirrors into place after the locomotive has been painted. Remove either the 5 or 6 sun shades from the fret depending on the prototype you are modeling. Remove the molded on drip rail from above the side windows. Mark and drill #80 holes for the sun shade mounting pins and install the shades.
As the proud owner of this Hien original(NS#3329), His work is magnificent. I can't wait to see my next engine that is waiting for his skills to bring to life. When I get it, I will be posting it. Unless he shows it off 1st.:tb-tongue:
Hi, This is Robert Ray using Hien's account with him right now. Hien came over to see what is happening to his photos, and as it turns out, he ran out of space. For some reason Railimages is storing his photos as full 500K files, but only displays them as 30K files, so he ran out of space. You only get 10 megs of space, so 500K photos will kill you quick. I showed him how I resize mine using Paint Shop Pro, deleated a couple older photos, then uploaded a resized photo of his SD70ACe detail sheet here: I suggest using a freeware program like IrfanView to resize your photos to 640x480 size before uploading.
Sorry guys, the photos should be up by now. Hi Steve I have two sets for you and Bob has 1 set for you. They are $14.95 each, contact me offline for more detail, other whom have already paid your item will ship out tomorrow. Hien.
I have to say the same things! I have several of his locomotives too, and they are just amazing to look at! I can also add that I have met him, and he is as nice a person as you would ever want to meet!
Well, I know who is making the photoetched detail set allowing conversion of an SD70ACe to an SD70M-2. I don't know why Hien is keeping it a secret, but since this is his thread, I am going to respect his unwillingness to 'fess up. I will say it is a small American company making high-quality N scale rolling stock, and that the proprietor would probably be very happy to hear his product is being well received and that we would like to see it commercially produced. Perhaps things have not reached the final commercial production stage yet. But encouraging the maker surely couldn't hurt, could it, Hien?
I just spoke with Pat a few minutes ago. As per Pat permission is not any secret here, we worked over 3 months, sample after sample sent back and forth to test to fit in the model before release in the market and now the final design set is done so he will make announcement in his email list anytime soon. At this moment there is no production run yet. I am just like any other modeler....and this is Pat's product, I have no right to make any announcements here, so don't get me wrong. Hien
Thanks, yes Jeff. I took them apart, painted and put them back. This process took little more time then it was supposed to take, but it was not so hard to do, just make sure the contact pins touch the brass pickup strips. Hien.
