I bought a Digitrax DN126M2 and had to file down the solder on the contacts to get it to fit in where the original light board was in my Life-Like SW9/1200. Before I tried programming, I first heard the chirping that told me that the loco was saying it as DC on a DCC layout. I tried the default 3 address, but no response from the loco. After I went through direct programming, again addressing to 03, and turning power on my Zephyr back on, the chirping was still there. Curiously though, I found that I was able to turn the light off and on. But there was still no response from the programmed address. From Brad Myers's 2011 tutorial on fitting a TCS Z2 decoder in this engine, I would appear that all I have to do is to remove the motor contacts, cut off the extra contact material, make the solder connections on the motor contacts and plug other end of the wires into the the plug-in jacks on the decoder. Does this sound right? Thanks again for your advice.
I would check all the connections with a meter, then reset the decoder if that doesn't work the decoder might be defective. I will be getting two Friday to install in 2 MT SW1500s, I'll let you know if I have any problems.
rrjim1, I tried resetting the decoder back to factory defaults (CV 8 to 8), but that didn't change anything. The installation arrangement is different for the Life-Like SW9/1200 and the MT SW1500. The MT1500 instructions from Digitrax show no requirement other than swopping the loco's original motor-to light board wires from the light board to the newly installed DN126M2. There are wires plugged in to the light board on the DC version MT1500, feeding current from the board to the motor. With the LL SW9/1200, there are no wires. The light board is plugged into the frame in the same was as in the MT1500, but no wires anywhere. The board seemingly gets the same feed that the motor gets. Could you or any other TB member take a look at Brad Myers's 2011 tutorial on fitting a TCS Z2 decoder in this engine (http://n-scale-dcc.blogspot.com/2011/10/tcs-z2-in-life-like sw91200.html) and let me know if you think that the technique used by Mr. Myers for installing the TCS Z2 decoder in the SW9/1200 can be modified to work for installing the Digitrax DN126M2 in the SW9/1200?
First, the link you have is wrong: http://n-scale-dcc.blogspot.com/search/label/Loco: Life Like SW9/1200 Digitrax says to use a DZ126 (not the M2 which is for MT 1500) and everywhere on the net (myself included) says it is not an easy install. There's just no space unless you remove the cab weight and then the loco doesn't have any pulling power. Yes you can use the install it using that as a GUIDE, but not as a step by step guide. All DCC installs are a variation of the same thing. Separate track power from the motor and install a decoder in between. In this case, track power is picked up by the solder tabs on the decoder and give to the motor from the two barrel things where the motor wires get installed in the MT 1500 (see http://www.digitrax.com/static/apps/products/mobile-decoders/dn126m2/documents/DN126M2.pdf). You will have to isolate the motor as in the blog you listed and install wires that go to those barrels. Since the motor isn't isolated right now, the locomotive is basically just a DC locomotive which is why it goes into DC mode when you put it on the track. Hope that helps, let me know if you have any more questions...
Thanks Jeff, I saw the Digitrax DZ126 instructions and thought it pretty neat, but rejected it because of the requirement to jettison the cab weight. Then Brad told me about the DN126M2 and said that the MT1500 used the same frame as the SW9/1200. It looks like modifying the SW9/1200 contacts and running new wires from them as in the TCS Z2 decoder installation instructions, would do the trick. I already know that the DZ126M2 will fit in the space. Won't the modification to the SW9/1200's brush contacts isolate the motor?
I have install 6 Z2s in Life Like SW locos. I see no reason why the DN126M2 won't work, it the same mechanism. Removing the motor contacts and adding wires is all you need to do to isolate the motor. I would check the frame to decoder board connections to be sure there tight, also make sure the wires are making good contact. The only other things I can think of is make sure your motor wires are not to long and making contact with the loco frame, and check that the decoder board isn't making contact any where on the frame were it isn't suppose to.
Don, installed a DN126M2 in a MT SW1500, same thing, light works, no motor functions, could not program. Removed defective board and only inserted second one half way, could read CVs. Pushed the rest of the way in and same thing, could not read or program CVs. Slid it out about half way, still could not read or write CVs. My guess is they got some bad PC boards. E mailed Digitrax, but it looks like I will be sending both in for replacement.
rrjim1, Take a look for reference at this: http://n-scale-dcc.blogspot.com/sear...e%20SW9%2F1200. Also, see the emails below that I got from Brad Meyers about this. Don, On this model they put a black plastic cap over the screw head to keep the contacts on the inside of the body from catching on the hole. These can be removed easily by sticking the end of a #11 X-acto blade into them and pulling them out. Then the screw head will be exposed. Thanks for mentioning this. I should have explained that in my post and now I will edit to include that step. Brad [HR][/HR]Subject: Re: TCS Z2 in a Life Like SW9/1200 From: donstaff@crosskeysvillage.net Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2015 23:31:29 -0400 To: ntrak@hotmail.com Hi Brad, I got my SW9/1200 apart ok without damaging anything, but now I'm stumped as to how the two sides of the frame come apart. In every other n scale loco I've worked on, the embedded plastic nuts were on one side with a screw head on the other. This one seems to be sealed with black paint. I can see the nut ok, but on the opposite side there is just a smooth button, with no slot or phillips head to turn. Can you give me a clue as to how the plastic screw comes out? Thanks again, Don On Apr 23, 2015, at 9:11 PM, Brad Myers wrote: Hi Don, The fact that you can control the lights would indicate that you have the right address. It's really important to keep the lower motor brush contact isolated from the frame. That's why the Kapton tape is mentioned. This chirping you mention, is that coming from the command station? Brad [HR][/HR]Subject: Re: TCS Z2 in a Life Like SW9/1200 From: donstaff@crosskeysvillage.net Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2015 11:23:10 -0400 To: ntrak@hotmail.com Hi again Brad, I bought a Digitrax DN126M2 and only had to file down the solder on the contacts to get it to fit in where the original light board was in my SW9/1500. When I tried programming, I first heard the chirping that told me that the layout was seeing it as DC. I tried the default 3 address, but no response from the loco. After I went through direct programming, again to address 3, and turned power on my Zephyr back on, the chirping was still there. Curiously though, I was able to turn the light off and on. But there was no response from the programmed address. From your 2011 tutorial, I would appear that all I have to do is to remove the motor contacts, cut off the extra contact material, and make the connections between the motor contacts and the plug-in jacks on the decoder. Does this sound right? Thanks again for your advice. Don On Apr 17, 2015, at 12:36 AM, Brad Myers wrote: Hello Don, The update would be that the new Micro-Trains SW1500 uses the exact same mechanism as the Life Like SW9/1200 and that Digitrax has a new decoder out for the Micro-Trains product which is the DN126M2. This new decoder has a tiny LED built in. While I have not found anywhere that says this new decoder would work on the Life Like locomotives, I don't see any reason it would not. I've been meaning to order one and try it out but have been quite busy lately. Brad [HR][/HR]Subject: TCS Z2 in a Life Like SW9/1200 From: donstaff@crosskeysvillage.net Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2015 23:41:40 -0400 To: ntrak@hotmail.com From your October 10, 2011 TCS Z2 in a Life Like SW9/1200 installation, is there an update or modification to include reinstallation of the LED?[FONT=Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif] Thanks, Don Stafford [/FONT]
I did some more checking, removed the second DCC board, hooked up the motor wires, used jumper wires to connect to the DCC boards frame contacts. I could then read CV1, so I assume that something is touching a component on the DCC board when installed in the loco. I wish I would have know this before, I would have just install Z2s in them like in my other 6 LL SW locos. I will send the two Digitrax DCC decoders back for replacement. Then I will disassemble the locos and check the frame were the decoder goes in. I'm guessing I will have to remove some of the frame material in order for these DCC boards to work.
Try putting Kapton tape under the decoder. I am currently almost done with my install of the DZ126M2 and have noticed that the decoder touches the frame halves on the engineer side. I haven't gotten to program or check to see if I have a decoder problem yet, but that was something I noticed when test fitting mine.
I just went back and read some of the posts again and think that the problem is that you guys filed the decoder contact pads. It's possible the metal shavings from filing are shorting your decoders. At the very least a dip in mineral oil would help. I filed my frame halves where the contact pads are inserted and washed the frame halves after just so I would avoid that problem.
I am very leary of dipping the board in mineral oil. How about brushing with tooth brush and blowing w. Dustoff?
I've gone through the whole thread a couple of times but still may have missed it, but is the motor isolated from the frame? I ask because it is not isolated in the stock Lifelike SW9/1200 frame. It is true that the MT SW1500 shares the same frame, trucks and motor, but the SW1500 motor is isolated (although mine had a short I needed to fix).
I say mineral oil because that is what fills electrical transformers. It's a non conducting fluid and won't harm the circuitry. Alternatively dish soap and warm water bath will work, just let them completely dry for a few days.
