Foam

You can cut the foam with a knife as stated above. One of the guys from the local club found the longest boning knife he could get and sharpened it to a razor finish. He swears by it. Othres prefer a home made and/or store bought hot wire.

Many people claim that the gases emitted when burned/melted (i.e. cut with a hot wire) are similar to wood smoke. Well, wood smoke is full of all kinds of nasty things, so use a respirator and/or use adequate ventilation! If you want to get technical, you can look up the MSDS (material safety data sheet) for the foam at the manufacturers' web sites.

In my area, the foam is mostly available in 2x8 sheets, not 4x8 (except the 1" or less). One can find it in thicknesses up to 6" as well (Great White North doncha know, eh?! ).

Good luck with your search!

Andrew

 

Hi again Caldog,

If you belong to a model railroad club in SF/Stockton area, their may be some members that have foam cutting tools. They can be expensive (for the better ones) and usually are not an item that one would use for other purposes. You don't absolutely have to buy these items, but, they will really make your life easier.

As mentioned before, these extruded foam products give off a toxic fume when being cut... so... make sure you do any hot knife/wire cutter work in a ventilated area.
Here's pix with links:

http://www.dpswax.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FCKnife&Category_Code=ACC


http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=81622


http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82104


PS:
Some people have used soldering irons with a blade attactment to cut foam board. While I haven't tried this method... it could be a less expensive way to go using a tool that has other uses. If anyone else has done this method... please let us know your results.
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=17107

 

Here's the Woodland Scenics webpage for more items:

http://www.woodlandscenics.com/items.htm/ToolsAndAdhesives

Foam Knife (note: works but labor intensive)
]

Perhaps the blade from the foam knife could be adapted to a soldering iron???

 

I don't know if you plan on doing hills or grades on your model railroad... but... if you do intend to create 'verticality' (hmmm... is that a real word) ... then use the Woodland Scenics system of foam risers. It's foolproof and fast.

You could also do "cookie cutter" style grades by using the 3/4" extruded foam, but, it may be difficult and could de-form (warp). The advantage is that you would not be restricted to a particular '% of grade' as with the Woodland Scenics method (basically 2% or 4% grades)

 

Thanks again for all the insight.

This will be my first ever try at a layout. O have laid track on a piece of plywoodor the kitchen table, but haven't gone be on that. So I thought since I'm not getting any younger, I might as well as take the plunge and try to build a real layout. I have some very simple ideas, for some hills and maybe a river or pond, but nothing is concrete yet. BTW I'm modeling in N scale.

On another note, since I live about two hours away from San Francisco I tried using the search for my local area. I called three lumber yards listed, and none had the sheets, and only one person even knew what I was talking about. So I will expand my search to the Sacramento area, which is only forty five minutes away. I also checked with my LHS, and the person there today didn't have a clue either. Will call back tomorrow when a real train person will be there.

Steve

 

That's exactly how I did my N scale layout (on a wood door). I think the secret is to adequately support the grades with a sufficient number of intermediate risers made from the same foam. I haven't noticed any deformation in the 3 years I've had it.

Regards

Ed

 

WOW!!!! You mean you guys go out and BUY your foamboard!?!?! I just watch around some local sites that are doing homebuilding and see if the builders are using foamboard. If they are, they are usually more than happy to have somebody haul off the excess and cut scraps of foamboard. If you see a construction site that is using foamboard, GO ASK THE FOREMAN FIRST to see if it is okay to take the excess pieces. ALWAYS ASK FIRST. I've never had to buy ANY foamboard and I've been using the stuff for years. Several time I've had builders tell me to take the excess WHOLE sheets that they aren't going to use. "Just git 'em outta here!" I offer to pick up the building site in exchange for the extra excess foamboard. The cleanup method got me 5 whole sheets one time. Always offer to pick up the excess foamboard AFTER working hours, that way you're not in the way of the working building crews. Get the Foreman's name and phone number if possible, so when you get asked who gave you permission to be onsite and removing the foamboard, you have a name/phone number to give out.

The pink/blue/green foamboard is the best for carving, but you can use the white expanded foamboard for filler, as in making mountains, in any area where you just need a spacer to stack up for height. You can cut/carve white foamboard, but have your shop-vac very close by. The nice thing about white expanded foam is that you can get it everywhere. Stores are constantly throwing out all kinds of it.

Also just remember , make sure the adhesive you use for putting two pieces of foambaord together, is NOT FLAMMABLE. This means water wash up and the adhesive is latex based.

 

Hi Steve, Stephen here. On my site I show how to use extruded foam [the pink or blue stuff] and how to cut it and glue it to plywood etc. Rather then me copying every thing here, pop on over and hopefully it will help you out.
Enjoy

 

actually the 2" thick white insulation foam makes a good base...I have used it in two layouts now. For forming hills and mountains I will use the blue/pink stuff as it does cut well without the bead problem.
John

 

Thanks fsm1000 for the information and the link. I'm going tonight, to my lhs and ask the gentleman there if he knows where to get the pink or blue foam. Haven't been able to go there before this, because I have been working with one of my retired greyhound racers. So now I'm back to getting this layout started.

Steve

 

I have to agree about this. If you can find it used and FREE it's that much sweeter a deal. In California where it is warmer I doubt it's common, although one would thing the blue foam would come in handy to keep heat out, and cool in.

 

Matt-

No memory here but it wasn't a whole lot. You could sk for a special price if they have some damaged unless you need a whole pristine sheet.

 

Well folks just a update. Still looking. Might just have to use the white stuff. Going to try again this weekend. Also tried the Owens-Corning link, and all of those that came up -were no don't carry that stuff.

Steve

 

Not sure. And really don't know anybody in the construction business to find out the answer.

 

I have tried several long time lumber yards here in Stockton, and the people answering the phone, act like I'm crazy. They have no clue what I'm asking for.

So maybe it is just me, and I'm not asking the right questions.

Steve

 

Have you tried this yet??

I found an insulation company in the Dallas area that had some available. I think I paid about $19 a sheet (4x8) for the 2" foam.

 

My brother lives in the Bay Area and none of the houses are allowed to have basement (earthquake building code) so there's no need for sheet foam.

Here in the Northeast, the local Home Depots sell 2' x 4' x 1.5" thick slabs for about $10 each.