I'm trying to remove some of the existing molded detail off an old Atlas GP-7 shell, like the D/B and other detail and would like to know what's the best way of doing it. Sandpaper, file, saw, Dremel ???? I only have 2 of these old shells and would like to use both of them (one low nose and the other with crew windows in the high nose). What is your method of removing the detail? Thanks to all Keep on Model Railroading MOPHEAD
i would warn about the dremel, it can get away from you. from the stuff i have read, a good sharp hobby knife is a good way, as is sandpaper, etc. dremels are great, but i've had bad experiences trying to work in soft plastic. next week i'm getting ready to do some work on a shell like that, here's a link: Gary Rose Link he has several suggestions on how to do some of it. hope this helps beast
a dremel is ok as long as you can adjust the drill speed and you can fix the dremel in a drill rig and hold the shell with both hands while working on it... ...and if everything goes wrong let me know I have some undecorated Atlas shells w/o DB available I have bought once.
I would use sandpaper and a sharp utility blade. Another tool that works great is a dental lab engine with a rheostat. You can buy them at dental supply houses. They are belt driven and the speed of the engine can be controlled with a foot rheostat. It will accept all mandrels for sandpaper disks, finishing stones and wheels as well as diamond burs and regular cutting burs. It's a very use piece of equipment. The speed will get up to about 10,000 rpm's but is completely variable. Stay cool and run steam.... [ November 04, 2005, 05:23 PM: Message edited by: Powersteamguy1790 ]
A long time ago I invested in a speed control unit for my Dremel also made by them. Can slow it to a crawl. Not having same I recommend a new sharp chisel blade for the old X-acto knife. They come in two widths. Then there is the old single edge razor blade. However much care is needed or you will be known as stubby. Finally the sanding sticks that take the belt strips of various grit sandpaper. What ever you use take it slow and by small layers at a time. Might also want to mask off with tape around the area to try and avoid taking off detail you don't want to.
I'd definately start with a knife, eithe a #11 or a chisel blade (whatever # that is) and finish with sandpaper. BTW, look in auto supply stores for sandpaper - a great selection with grits down to "are you sure it's there" fineness.
Micro-mark sells a tool just for removing cast on details... much easier and safer to use than a chisel blade.
MOPHEAD if your planning on taking off the whole DB blister I would just recommend buying a new shell from Atlas with no DB. The Dremell is only good for rought cutting, then switch to new Xacto blades or even a small file.
I use chisel blades that I narrow to varrious widths. Use your dremel to narrow the chisel blades, keep the blades sharp, use them with the beveled edge down, take your time. Then use fine sand papers to remove the final detail.
Thanks everyone; As I stated before, the shell is of Atlas's 1970 or 1980 production, the new shells don't fit. I WILL stock up on Xacto blades and sandpaper (Thanks Eagle2, I'll see my auto parts store this week-end). Again, thanks for all the advice everyone. MOPHEAD
A left-handed answer to kitbashing the olde Kato made GP7. I've PMed MOPHEAD already on this, but anybody should check with Atlas for obsolete parts as their website doesn't show everything they may have in stock (understatement: their parts listing needs some work). In the past year I bought sideframes for that GP7 which hadn't been made for the last 25 years. Bob in IDaho
A while ago I wanted to kitbash an E7B. Atlas made some E7As in the first generation stuff around the 1970s. I called Atlas and they sold me two E7A shells some employee had found in his desk drawer. ($5 each) Always best to give them a call. Friendly and helpful.
