I just finished building two sections of my new around-the-wall layout with metal studs for the framework. The depth is 32" and both sections were about 12' long. The most interesting part was one section that had to narrow down to go thru a hallway- i was able to cut the metal stud on the thin[2"] sides in such a way that one piece was bent at two angles to go from 32" down to 11" without weakening the metal. Came out with a strong piece of framework that was also inexpensive. On the 32" deep sections i ran a metal stud down the middle, lenghtwise for extra rigidity and someplace to attach risers [will also be made of same metal] for the track to climb. Ultimately the layout will consist of two levels, but am waiting to put on second level till i lay track and make basic scenery on the first level. Flat areas will be 1" Celotex while all elevations and mountains will be made using Bragdon Ent. foam sandwich method. I can build everything and put the sections in place all by myself due to light weight, yet it is plenty strong to work on. I love it! Curt
I have talked to some here in Vancouver who have used that same construction technique and they also loved it. I have not tried it or seen it in person, so I can't personally comment. But, I like the light weight idea.
I am interested in this type of construction. What did you use for supports? I had thought of using sections of pvc pipe as supports. Has anyone done this? Steve
As a matter of fact Steve, i use 1 1/2" PVC for legs myself. Instead of letting each leg stand alone on floor, i connect the front and back legs [layout is 32" deep] with a short piece along the floor via 90 degree fitting. This gives me the ability to slide the section of layout away from the wall to work on backdrop, etc. till i am ready to attach it permanently to the wall and the other sections. Strength of metal 2x4s allows me to only put legs every 8 to 10 feet with no signs of any sagging. I have decided to use two long supports that will give bracing every 10.6" front to back instead of the original one support in the middle with 16" of open space between braces. This will give even better support to any type of foam, but of course you could still use 1/4 plywood as base with foam on top of that if you are concerned about someone putting hand or elbow thru foam base. Curt [ 04 August 2001: Message edited by: rmathos ]</p>
I first saw this at the Atlanta convention and asked if the metal framework could be used as a common ground, and it can. Certainly cuts down on the amount of wire used!
When you use a galvanized steel section for ground, it is usually reccommended to place an internal star (electrical) waster next to the steel beam, so the "teeth" will bite through any oxide buildup. When tightened, the teeth go into the steel, as well as into the eyelet you have crimped onto the end of your wire. On high frequency radio frames, we even solder the wire to the eyelet as well. After tests, we usually paint a green lacquer around and over the whole fitting to seal for residual moisture from condensate.
