I popped off and apart the truck from of my AZL GP7. I find the AZL couplers very annoying on my switching layout, I hate them in fact. I have a Rokuhan shorty with the MTL compatible coupler and it works beautifully, but I can only pull a fraction of the cars (even with added tungsten putty for extra weight). My AZL GP7 pulls like a champ, but I hate having to reach down and click the cars together, plus the AZL coupler is more difficult to "pick" apart. Anyways, I attempted to modify and install the Rokuhan couplers on my GP7 with minimal success, but not really an improvement over the AZL couplers. Anyways with all that said. I was able to restore the original AZL coupler, but I had to snap the truck off the engine frame so I could fit my fat fingers over the cover to snap it back in place. I did so successfully but after I reinstalled the truck (making sure all the contacts were correctly line up, etc), the engine runs for crap, there's a clicking sound and it binds and stops running. In one of my attempts I pulled the truck apart, and that wasn't for the weak of heart, there was no improvement, but also, things did not get any worse. So, what's the trick?
Welcome to Trainboard cucokewe, at this point I would recommend pulling the truck back off and inspecting with a magnifier to make sure a particle of debris did not get it. Also check that the metal electrical wipers did not bend. Sometimes the truck tower wipers bend inwards towards the center and the frame wipers bend outwards away from the center of the mechanism, then the truck wiper rubs and sticks on the white metal frame.
I've messed with the trucks some more and I have been able to improve it a little bit. When I punch the lead truck along the track I can feel the gears bind a little, with a bit of a rhythmic click. Ive looked at the gears and I can't really see anything stuck in the teeth, but it seems like there must be something there. I need a brighter light and a magnifying glass before I can go any further. I'll keep at it.
Azl direct sells GP7 trucks. Just make sure they are the right ones, because there’s two versions of the GP7. I don’t know if the trucks are identical. I only have the original version.
shamoo737 do you use the mtl couplers directly in the azl coupler pockets, or are you body mounting them?
Persistence has paid off. I finally have it running satisfactorily again. I feel like it's back to what it was when new. Now if I could just figure out how to mount MTL couplers without cutting off the coupler pockets.
Seriously! Do it after bedtime, because 3 year olds really want to know what you're doing! However, with no (intentional) modifications to the coupler pocket, and only slight modifications to the MTL coupler--you need to trim the internal alignment pins off the top and bottom halves of the coupler. It fits fairly well. It's as functional as the MTL compatible Rokuhan couplers that I use on my Shorty, and maybe more reliable. I'm still testing.
The only thing I do differently, is to secure the cover with a MTL screw. I found the covers with the tabs restricted the movement of the couplers.
I had to use clear plastic so I could see the hole. I can even couple at very slow speeds. Lots of bounce in the cars, so I'm going to tackle the axles next and apply the small springs included with the coupler kits.
How do you eliminate the coupler droop? I won't have any issues on the level, but if I ever plan to use an incline, I can see that I may have an issue with unwanted uncoupling.
There is not much you can do about the coupler droop. A very small amount of up down movement can actually be beneficial when going over expansion tracks and elevation transitions. For inclines you need to ease into the slope with a gradual increase / decrease in the angle UP or down. Starting the slope a foot or 2 before you thought you wanted it can make a huge difference. Simply adding a piece of card stock under one end of a section of track, then 2 at the next, and a 4 at the 3rd, 6 at the 4th and so on will help eliminate unwanted uncoupling issues do to elevation transitions.
I'll take a closer look, I thought I had. It certainly was too big initially though. Did you trim the post out of the center after you drilled down through it, or leave it? I was wondering if maybe the cover was just resting on top of it. Looking at your pics, I can see that yours rests a lot deeper in the pocket.
