I need help with my self system. I need to know how to have the two boards come together and not have a hump in them and how do I fasten two boards to a single bracket? I have a question about the corner but I am not sure how to ask it. My problem is the track doesn't make a 90 degree turn (of course) so how do I put in a piece for the track to run on? Can someone help me or at least point me to a good online resource? My progress has come to a dead stop.
Well.. I dont know of a website that has info on this specific info.. but perhaps someone else does. As for joining "boards" together and the corner, I will attempt to answer based on how I perceive your problem. First, I wouldnt try to put a bracket under the joint. I would "gusset" (glue and fasteners)the bottom of the boards together (fly jointed) with a similar thickness member. Then have a bracket on either side of the joint. For the corner.. I would make a cardboard template cut the radius you need to make the turn. After you get the radius/corner, cardboard template to your liking, then jigsaw one out of the wood you are using. Once you get the wooden corner right, "gusset" each side of the corner peice into the straight peices in a similar fashion as described above. Dont know if that fits your specific situation.. but that is how I join subroadbed on my layout and it works like a charm each time. Plus, using a similar thickness member (board) glued and nailed from the bottom usually makes the joint come out pretty smooth and tight. In addition to the above, you can always fill the joint w/ a good putty compound and sand that puppy down. Good luck! -Kitbash [ 19. August 2002, 15:14: Message edited by: Kitbash ]
Hm. A butt-joint is always going to be rather awkward. It's not the strongest type of joint in any case. How are you at woodworking/cabinetry? Or, if you have a friend who can help and does a bit of woodworking, ask about these- </font> biscuit joint: requires a biscuit joiner but is neat, strong, and invisible.</font> mortice and tenon: not terribly useful at shelving dimensions. Great for big projects, though.</font> dovetail: requires tools, experience and patience, but creates a good-looking, permanent joint.</font> simpler, if not as elegant: put the two boards toegether as you would like them to stay. Support both boards, and join them by gluing and screwing a small piece of plydoow on the bottom of the joint.</font> Hope that I've been of some help.
I have used this technique with success. However, the bottom piece must be large enough to prevent the joint from buckling with temperature and humidity. For example, if you have 12 inch shelving, the bottom piece should be almost as long as the joint is wide, overlap about 4 inches on either side of the joint, and have 2 rows of 3 screws each on either side of the joint. In this example the bottom piece would be almost 12" long by about 8" wide, and use 12 screws. If your shelving is narrower than 12" the overlap of the bottom piece can be shorter, but should still be about 4" on either side of the joint. Although only 2 screws would be needed for each row. With narrower shelving the concern is not so much to prevent warping as it is the need to add strength at the joint. By the way, pre-drill holes in the top boards to clear the screws. This way the bottom boards will be drawn up tightly squeezing the glue as the screws are tightened. Good Luck! [ 19. August 2002, 15:51: Message edited by: Hank Coolidge ]
