Sorry I couldn't offer any real help but I don't do DCC. Also, I guess I could have sounded more computery by using the terms "power down" and "power back up" instead of "turn it off" and turn it back on". Doug
What brand of GP7? Does the blink frequency increase/decrease with speed? Bypass the decoder and see how the motor runs on straight DC. My WAG - something is moving as the motor or drive train rotates and making/breaking contact somewhere. Could be a circuit is opening and closing - loose connection - or the opposite, could be a short and the decoder is protecting itself.
Amen to that. Having to work to support our habit does tend to get in the way of all the fun On a side note, if this decoder has been in storage for awhile you may be outside the One Year Goof Proof warranty for the decoder. On the plus side, the repair or replacement cost is very reasonable, but be sure to fill out the proper forms on the TCS website before returning the decoder. Something that is unique with TCS decoders, they store the month day and year they were built in CV's 250, 251 & 252 Please keep us updated on what you find or if the decoder has to be returned for repair or replacement.
No progress so far, and we're running away to N Scale Weekend this weekend (yay!)... But to respond to the above questions: We're WAY past the one year goof-proof guarantee; the decoder was installed for me in 2013 or before. The trains went into storage in 2014. And it's an Atlas Geep with the split board, requiring the CN-GP decoder.
I used to live on the dark ages of DC. Then, I saw how much "fun" everybody was having with DCC. I bought the best NCE system out there and converted some Kato engines to DCC. I learned a lot. Now I've sold the NCE setup and swapped the Kato locos back to DC. Life is good. That is all.
Hi Norseman Jack, From time to time I go retro as well. I've not thrown in the towel on DCC as I enjoy the benefits DCC has to offer. But Like you mentioned, I have some older Kato and Minitrix locomotives that would require extensive surgery to update to DCC, so they remain DC. On the plus side, since my layout is small (24" x 80" HCD Layout) changing between DC and DCC is a simple matter of swapping two wires that run from my layout bus to either the command station or DC power pack. Digitrax Empire Builder System with DB150 command station. MRC Throttlepack 9900 with walk around throttle. The best of both worlds.
Rich.... When I started out and was using both DCC and DC I used a toggle switch to choose which to run. Swapping wires got old after awhile.... .
Hi George, I've thought about doing the same with a DPDT switch. My problem is my modeling space is very limited. A shelf like you used in the above photo would not be a good option for me, my layout has to be stored in a closet when family comes to town. For me it's easier to swap two wires verses having to remove a shelf every time the layout needs to be stored. Just as a FYI, the Condo were we currently live was built in 1942 and the rooms are very small. We have 2 bedrooms and a bath upstairs with a living room, kitchen and utility room downstairs. Unfortunately we do not have a basement. The buy in for the association is a little steep, but the monthly cost is very reasonable. The biggest advantage is when you leave, you get 100% of your buy in fee back. In the above photo you can see the small two drawer table the command station and power pack rest on. It contains most of my modeling supplies plus the top of the table shares space with my collection of railroad books. Sadly that stand is the only place I have to store my books, which limits my ability to have both the command station and power pack hocked up at the same time. When using the power pack, it takes up all the available space in front of the command station. Once I retire we're planing on moving South and on my wish list is a home or condo with a spare room that can be devoted solely for my hobby. The wife wants to move South and I want a hobby room So for the time being I'm making do and trying to save for retirement, which at this point is like a car payment 60 months to go. As a disclaimer, I might also add that depends on what happens over the next 5 years, if things don't go as planned, I may have to stay a additional 2 years, but we'll cross that bridge when we get to it.
That's quite the expansion joint there on the right, George. I bet it never closes up. And, I love walk-around throttles, especially for switching. It's great to be right where the action is and watch magnetic uncoupling work. I know the trend is toward skewers and other pointed sticks to uncouple but I still prefer hands-free where possible. As a person gets older and shakier, it gets more difficult to uncouple N scale trains by hand. Doug
BTW, my layout is DC with two cabs and I can switch the second one between a stationary MRC 9500 and an MRC Control Master 20 with a walk around. I just mounted a miniature DPDT switch on a small, 1"X2" board and hung it on the layout framework so it takes virtually no room. Doug
This is the low-tech solution I'm using. I still need to buy a Blu-tooth transmitter and a couple of speakers to place around the layout for surround sound. I'll likely buy a dual channel transmitter and feed the base through my Sony sound bar's subwoofer. Base is not directional, so it doesn't matter where the subwoofer is. The Kato soundbox adds both momentum and locomotive specific sounds. It's rarely discussed here (I don't even remember anybody else bringing it up). It's nothing like DCC (that can be good and bad), but for a small layout running single trains on each track it really gives up nothing. The phone app integrates flawlessly. There are some really smart folks at Kato. N-Gauge UNITRACK - KATO USA : Precision Railroad Models I currently have two of the smart controllers and two of the sound boxes. I no longer have space for a permanent layout, so it's basically two extended loops on a large table. It's all good when you can still run your trains!
Here's a poor picture of all 17 (at the time) of my Arnold Rapido GPs on the track at right on my Treble-O-Lectric layout. They all ran fine together and my MRC 9500 handled them without blinking: I know we have completely sidetracked George's thread but this is just to pass the time until he chimes back in with a "I solved the problem" post. Doug
Hey Rich.... Looking at your picture... It looks like you are using spade connectors under screws on the back of your control modues. Have you ever thought of getting acouple of 2-Pole Flat Connector Sets and cutting them in half... https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hopkins-2-...&utm_content=HDW_Auto-Batteries_Catch-All_LIA One end on your track connection...one each on each control modules. That way no more unscrewing to change them....a simple unplug and plug in. Just a thought...
Yikes! I am losing my mind. I just realized I put my post above in the wrong thread. It's supposed to be in the one about some wondering what the limit would be with multiple locomotives moved together. Keith posted a video of 25 units. and then it got steered to models. I can't find it now and search isn't working. I will correct my mistake as soon as I can. Doug
OK, I can't edit/delete the above post but I did at least get it posted in the correct thread which is the "Random Railfan Prototype photos for All" thread. Doug
Hi George, Thanks for the suggestion and you know what they say, great minds think alike I just simplified the process and used the Fastenal type spades and quick disconnects. Here a updated photo: Now no more having to remember which wire goes into which terminal on the power pack. Just simply connect the correct color wire to it's mate and I'm good to go
And there ya go.... Although....with the metal parts showing on those connectors...a short is in the making if they touch each other.....hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.
A short is ALWAYS just a little careless slip away! I just hope I never slip when plugging something into a wall socket or I might become the short. Doug
