HO Scale Laying Roadbed Questions

Pher Oct 11, 2006

  1. Pher

    Pher TrainBoard Member

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    After many a months of starting and having to move the layout. I finally have a home for my 4X8 HO scale layout. I've layed the track to test and fit the pieces. When laying the Cork, How do you get the centerline of the Track, before redoing this one, I had tried by my curves got all messed up and didn't line up again. This is on Blue Foam so nails can be used to hold in place, just wasn't sure how to go about getting the centerline easily.

    Also anyone know if the Atlas Code 83 turn outs are powered or not? Planning for DC moving into DCC in the future.
     
  2. ppuinn

    ppuinn Staff Member

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    Pher:
    I'm modeling in N-Scale on homasote, but a variation on my method might work in HO on foam:

    I use long track nails only partially pushed in to secure my track to the layout. I keep adjusting everything until I'm satified with the straightness or curve of the track, then slide the track up to the top of the nails and push the cork roadbed halves under the track from each side. With one hand, I hold the track down and the roadbed in against each nail and drive each nail in with my needle-nosed pliers in the other hand. After running for a long time (in some places on my layout, it has been years) and feeling satisfied with the track placement and reliability, I'll ballast it and remove the nails.

    I'm using Atlas track nails which are about 1/2 inch long. In HO, with thicker roadbed and with foam that may not hold nails as tightly as homasote, you may need longer nails through the ties to make this method work (maybe 1" wire brads or finishing nails???).

    Or you might drive some nails between ties (instead of through them) to mark your centerline, lift the track up or remove it entirely while leaving the marker nails, glue or nail down your cork roadbed, remove the marker nails, and then re-position the track using the cork roadbed seam.

    Another option:
    You may want to consider temporarily positioning the track using nails, then use a marker or pencil to mark the centerline of the track...little dots between every tie. Remove the track, install the roadbed, replace the track.

    I prefer keeping the track in place and sliding the cork roadbed underneath because it seems to go faster for me and I don't have to contend with taking track apart and putting it back together again (a royal pain in the caboose with Flex track that springs back straight when not secured).
     
  3. Pher

    Pher TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks Dave. I started doing that last night to test andwas working.. I figured by the end of today I'll be finished with it. I'll have to tweak it here and here but overall it's working fairly well.
     
  4. ppuinn

    ppuinn Staff Member

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    Pher:
    How about some "in-progress" pics, if you get a chance?
     
  5. Pher

    Pher TrainBoard Member

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    I would but unfortunately our Digital camera broke. I do have the webcam I could setup, but the pics are not great
     

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