What techniques or applications have you performed to your Marklin 0-6-0 locos to make them run smoother and better? Please post your replies no matter what you did to your loco to make it run better. All postings will be greatly appreciated!!!! Thanks Hobo Tim
Hobo Tim, I don't own a Maerklin 0-6-0, but I am on the Yahoo Nn3 list and I see them discussed from time to time. The usual "fixes" I hear about are making sure the gears are cleaned out and then making sure the worm gear isn't binding when it runs, not even intermittently. Adjustments are sometimes needed here. I have also heard that sometimes the side rods will bind a little bit. Most times people run them without their shells on a test track watching like a hawk and then work it out that way. I also hear of some people re-motoring them with Faulhauber (sp?) motors as per Nigel Lawton's page. I can try and find this if you can't locate it. I don't actually remember the URL. Adam
What I do is run the motor full blast for 10 minutes, then use the back side of an exacto blade to scrape the carbon gunk out between the commutator strips inside the motor. Next I spray the loco motor, and gearbox with TV Tuner cleaner (contact cleaner), blow dry with canned air, then lube lightly as directed by Marklin with Labelle light oil. 103 or 108, I can't remember it's number.
Hi Rob, I also use the TV Tuner Cleaner, you are my man, I was even always prayer for this :thumbs_up: Video head cleaner is also the same juice. And with the running in, also correct, It takes sometimes to burn in the charcoals. Its like with barbecue, you dont throw your T-Bone steak on the grill before the charcoal is ready:we-laugh: But it can be also serious damage sometimes on the rotor, the wires break on some models very easy. And on 4 legs he run not so good anymore. Also important is if you have oil on the wheel pickups, see upper for spray. Märklin like to fry them in oil before selling. Best is to spray everything out and put new oil on the right places. I always use very thin Lubra metallic blue for everything near the motor and less liquid Faller oil in the gear, very small quantity everywhere. And last, if you take off the rotor, dont put the worm back to much deep. The separation plastic can grow up with heat.
I always check the current drawn by the locomotive while running. If it draws over 150 mA, it's the indication of some mechanical problem, most likely too much vertical play of the motor shaft. The worm must be pressed on to the point, when the play is barely noticable. Below 150 mA the tension of brushes and clean surfaces make big difference. By the way, never test run the chassis without added weight (to substitute the shell), because the lighter chassis acts irrationally, creating more confusion.
I will agree with the others have said. I use a product spray cleaner for RC car motors and I give a real good blast. I let it dry and then oil and adjust the brushes so they are not too tight. Then I add small drops of oil on the wheel axis. After that I use alcohol on a paper towel and run the loco with half wheels on/off to get the gunk off the wheels. The other thing I always do is store the loco's right side up so the oil doesn't run in places it doesn't need to be.
Great looking stuff Larry! My first question is how did you do it? I went to your site and couldn't make out the translation. Second question is this, how much better do the loco's run after you made the change? Any details would be appreciated.
Hi Lajos, Barely is relative. On new virginal locos, Märklin use about 0,3mm of gap, what is already a lot. If you put one piece of brass 0,3mm in between, you never push to much deep. Anyway he need some gap to have better starting of the gears.
Nope!! No Jimbo, it's not your 0-6-0 chassis!!!! It is one that was modified into an SW1 earlier. ------------------ When I posted this message for Helpful Hints, it was not for a chassis in my possession but already in the hands of the owner. He is aware of my posting this message in the three Z scale forums. I have to say their has been alot of info posted. I love the motor with huge flywheel. Very nice. Thanks for all the advice! Hobo Tim
Wow!!!! Who, what, where, and How Much!!!!!! This is an awesome conversion. How does it run? Where can I find a motor like that? Is it a 4mm? Maxon or Faulhaber? Did you make the flywheel? Do you have photos of the Re-Gearing modification? Please post more!!!!!!! Hobo Tim
that IS a great modification -- but no one has commented on the valve linkages. that is some fantastic work, gents. or, as they say: it's not your daddy's Marklin 0-6-0!! dave f.
Hi Tim, hi everybody Its a 6mm Faulhaber. The Motor is fixed at a milled piece. This piece holds also the additional gear. The loco runs well and slow. I made the worm gear and the flywheel at my lathe, and the gear at my milling machine. Unfortunately there are no pictures of the "making of". Larry
