How do I proceed now....

This is my first layout. I've built the framework, laid the 3/8" plywood (it's a cookie cutter type frame) and now am ready to start getting to the serious stuff. I'll be using a cork roadbed with N gauge flex track. I'll be using DCC.

1. How often should I be dropping the 18-20 gage feeder wires off of the rails to the 12 gage bus that I will have running under the whole layout? I plan to use regular connectors at the ends of flex track (vs. soldering). (Please don't say every 30".)

2. I'm planning to run it as two blocks since I do have one reverse section in the layout. I plan to utilize a reversing detector on the one block. I'll have about 150' of track total. Is this reasonable?

3. I'll have 12 turnouts. I would like to start with manual turnouts and then switch to under table remotes switching at some point in the future. I would go ahead and drill the holes in the layout for where the switch machine would come through, but not put any switches in right now. Is this a reasonable thing to do?

4. It appears that with a handheld remote DCC controller and no electric switching, I would not need a control board. Is that reasonable?

5. The layout is 4' x 12'. There is a break in the middle where I will, from time to time, be required to disassemble the layout and move it to another location (always in a climate-controlled situation). How do I best go about making the track connection over the table break. Is it best to use a small piece of track to go over the connection?

Gee, I'm sure there's more. That's plenty for now.

Oh, by the way, the layout is HO-36 from the Atlas big book. Doing it in N allows for much more prototypical curves. I'm excited.


Roger

 

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by RogerDodger:
1. How often should I be dropping the 18-20 gage feeder wires off of the rails to the 12 gage bus that I will have running under the whole layout? I plan to use regular connectors at the ends of flex track (vs. soldering). (Please don't say every 30".)<hr></blockquote>

sorry for this: You should drop a feeder to every single piece of rail. This is by far the most reliable method - you can't count on the track joiners to work reliably. However, if you solder your rail joints you can get away with every 30"

 

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by RogerDodger:
2. I'm planning to run it as two blocks since I do have one reverse section in the layout. I plan to utilize a reversing detector on the one block. I'll have about 150' of track total. Is this reasonable?<hr></blockquote>

I'm not sure - maybe a question for the DCC forum.

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by RogerDodger:
3. <snip>Is this a reasonable thing to do?
4. <snip> Is that reasonable?<hr></blockquote>

Yes and Yes

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by RogerDodger:
5. The layout is 4' x 12'. There is a break in the middle where I will, from time to time, be required to disassemble the layout and move it to another location (always in a climate-controlled situation). How do I best go about making the track connection over the table break. Is it best to use a small piece of track to go over the connection?<hr></blockquote>

Difficult question. On the one hand, I don't like bridge tracks between modules. In my experience they tend to loosen and will end up electrically dead. (Granted, with all wheel pickup, the odds that you will hit both a dead section and a dirty section are low and modern flywheel equipped locos will power over it; but when it does happen the loss of the DCC signal does some strange things like turns off the headlights.) One he other hand - it's really difficult to keep the track lined up when you butt the track right up against the edge of the section.

FWIW - I am planning a three section layout at the moment and am planning to put the ends together without bridge tracks. I am also planning to handlay the track which I think will give me the ability to adjust the joints a fair bit if needed.

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by RogerDodger:
the layout is HO-36 from the Atlas big book. Doing it in N allows for much more prototypical curves. I'm excited.<hr></blockquote>

I've been saying this for ages. The best way to plan an N scale pike is to start with a good HO plan that fits the SAME space - this is IMHO a much better way to go than to try and cram as much N scale track in as will fit. I'm excited too!

[ 11 September 2001: Message edited by: yankinoz ]</p>

 

Have to agree with Rob, every rail should have a feed. Sorry, you asked! Regarding DCC, one block plus a reverse block is fine. The only reasons to consider more blocks would be: A. to prevent the entire railroad from shutting down when there is a short somewhere, and B. to help you isolate the occasional mysterious short you just can't find.

Have fun, Gary

 

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by yankinoz:


sorry for this: You should drop a feeder to every single piece of rail. This is by far the most reliable method - you can't count on the track joiners to work reliably. However, if you solder your rail joints you can get away with every 30" <hr></blockquote>

I was going to use the connectors with the wire attached off of them (Atlas). Could I use it off of every other flex rail piece (ie: a piece with regular connectors followed by a piece with wired connectors followed by a piece with regular connectors (and so on) ).

Roger

 

For your wiring, you should seriously consider soldering to the track. This would improve your connections between sections of flex track and allow you to space your drops a bit further appart. The key to soldering is to use a flux, I use just a drop of a liquid flux and the soldering is completed before heating up any ties.

Another key consideration in DCC operations is that all of your turnouts need to have the frogs insulated from other track. I was told to just insulate one of the the two sides of the frog and had to relay quite a bit of track. Now I insulate both ends of the frog and drop a lead about 6-12 inches away. Haven't had a single problem and I ahve almost 50 switches on my layout now.

As far as control panels go, the only reason I have to put one together is to control some switches that I can't reach from my normal operating position. When I run the layout alone, there are a 4 yard enter/exit and two sets of passenger station switches that I can't reach. So I built a small 8x6 panel just for those turnouts.

For assembly and mobility I used 2' x 8' tables with L-girder sides and joists made from 1"x4"s I have joists at the ends which are bolted together. This also allows the table tops to be aligned flat. For the gaps, I first started to use 6" sections or rerailer tracks to cross, now, I simply lay in the flextrack and will use rail nippers to cut a 4-6 inch section out when I get ready to move.

Table tops are 2" thick extruded Styrofoam, giving the table strength without the weight and lots of workability. Cutting holes for switch machines, wire feeds, details etc. is very easy.

Another DCC point is to drop in lots of plug in locations for your hand held. This allows you to move with the loco, throwing switches as you go, and permits visitors on another handheld to work with you.

Good luck with your construction.

 

Using the joiners with the wire soldered already is fine, but you really should solder the joiner to the rails, or else this is where contact problems will develop. It may work for years without soldering, or it may not. Most people who are reluctant to solder are afraid of melting ties. Remove a tie or two on either side of rail joints, use a hot iron so the joint heats quickly, after filing the solder joint smooth, replace the ties, just slide them under the rails.

Gary

 

How hard is it to solder rail joints? I've seen ads for resistance solder (welding??) equipment that make it look easy but are somewhat expensive for the normal part-time hobbiest. I would suspect with a bit of practice, just heat the rail and apply the solder to the inside face of the rail. As long as you have the adjoining rails touch, I assume there is sufficient heat transfer to heat both rails (in order to make a good joint). Any comments?

Another thought. I just got an air-powered finish nailer (max size: 1-1/4"). Had anybody tried using a nailer to attach flex track? Kinda like using a sledge hammer to kill a fly.

Roger

 

Walthers advertized a Tacker that was suposed to split a staple to put in a spike shaped staple on both sides of the rail. I haven't seen any adds about it lately, but I have read some complaint letters about the Tacker nicking rails, so maybe it wasn't as good as they claimed. That might also be the fault of the operator too.

The only time I have used the kind of flat headed nail you are refering to, I had to pre-drill a hole so the grain of the wood did not deflect the nail causing the track to be moved out of alignment, so I no longer use them.

 

Roger, Soldering is not hard, and you do not need a resistance outfit for trackwork. The most important thing is surface preparation. Clean the surfaces with alcohol, get some liquid flux (it helps the solder flow) and use a hot iron (I use a Weller gun) Practice makes perfect!

Gary

 

About a year ago this time, soldering was a great mystery to me. But as the old song goes - "Is that all there is?" - it is very easy. The only important piece of info you really need is from Tony Koester of MR fame. And his advise: "Don't wear shorts while soldering!" If you have a good RR Modeling store close by, take in your track and soldering equipment during a slow day for them. I am sure they will welcome you into the fold of the soldering elite, by working with you.

Almost everything you need you can get on sale at some point.

 

I have been soldering a lot of drops lately myself. Preparation is the key! First, I pre-tin my wire after stripping about 1/4 inch of insulation off. I put the end of the wire in some paste then wrap a little bit of thin solder around the bare tip, then apply the heat from the iron. I use a 45watt iron I picked up at Sears.

Now for soldering the wire to the rail I bend the wire at a 90 degree angle at the soldered tip. Then I drill a hole in the roadbed for the wire and put the wire in the hole. I put bent wire against the rail and apply a couple of drops of liquid flux. I then put my heat sinks in place. The aluminum ones that come with soldering kits really aren't that big, but aluminum does not attract solder. I use inch copper battery clamps that you can get at Sears. Copper draws heat away quickly, but be careful, it also attracts some solder. (You might have to heat up the clamp sometimes to loose the clamp from the rail). Anyway once the heat sinks are in place I use a soldering tool to hold the wire against the rail, put a drop or two of soler on the tip of the iron and apply the hot iron to the wire while holding it to the rail. You will have a good solid contact in about 3 to 5 seconds. I pull the iron away and hold the wire in place until the solder cools. You get good solid contact. BTW I am solder #18 gauge solid wire to code 100 track. Smaller wire (higher gauge #) and smaller code track might solder even quicker. The key is try not to leave your iron on the rail too long. If it takes more than 5-6 seconds you will start to melt ties and you may have to start the process over again.

One other tip: Strip and tin both ends of your drop. This way you won't put undo pressure on your previously soldered joint when you solder the drop wire to the bus wire or terminal.

 

If you want a simple tool for tacking down track, try a tool made especially for that purpose, offered by E-R Model Importers. It's essentially a hand-held plunger, with a magnet at the bottom to hold the track nail in place. Just set the plunger over the nail hole and push down. It works extremely well with Homasote roadbed, and very well with cork and plywood. Ask your local hobby store if they carry it, or if they can get it for you. I believe it retails for $9.95.