I have been tuning up PECO and Atlas switches to prevent flakey connections through the little hinges or relying on rail-to-rail contact for power switching. This approach also removes the need for additional power routing. The two frog rails need insulating joiners to prevent shorts. I do the same with PECO switches to avoid the rail-to-rail contact issues. By the way, I am well past retirement age...
The problem, as I see it with any switch (turnout) is that rails of opposite polarity are in very close proximity to each other in both the point area and the frog area. These are areas that are more prone to derailments for varying reasons. Any derailment in this area could cause a short. Isolating the frog, the closure rails and the frog rails is the only way I know that will prevent this. In doing so the frog, as well as the two frog rails, would be the same polarity. The point rails would be severed from the closure rails and jumpered to their corresponding stock rails. The closure rails would be the same polarity as the frog and the frog rails. You can then use a DPDT slide switch to both throw the points as well as power the frog along with the frog rails and the closure rails. One side of the switch will power the frog while the other side will allow you to add signaling to indicate how the switch is positioned. A bicolored R/G LED works great for this. The process takes a little bit of time but the cost is minimal and the result is well worth it. There are several You Tube videos on this method.
