I recently picked up a new FA-FB set on eBAY and another different number FA in a silent auction from our NTrak club, all in the beautiful yellow and black Erie paint scheme for a grand total of $54 incl. shipping! They needed about an hour of break in, and removal of the shells to wipe away excess grease. The noisy B unit needed some light oil to the engine shafts and then quieted right down. Now they're happily humming around my layout, up and down the 2% grades and pulling as many cars as I care to hook up effortlessly. Low speed running is a joy as they creep tie to tie. Now that they're selling at deep discounts, I'd have to put them up there as some of the best bang for the buck in N scale currently available.
I have an A-B set that I have about run the wheels off. I modifed them to have Unimate couplers between them so they close couple. The two of them easily pull way more than 50 cars on our club NTRAK layout.
I have a pair of A units partially completed in Soo maroon/gold and found these operated great right out of the box. Unfortunately, I can't find a valid reason to partake of the great prices these can be picked up for currently. They would make great wallpaper strippers as well. Hook them up and twist the throttle...
I have three AB sets that I picked up at woo woo woo woo woo woo about two years ago for $39 a pair. They ran great out of the box, pull like horses, are quiet and a dream to operate.
Just about anything is DCC-friendly with varying amounts of coercion. But the short answer is no. Not that they can't be made so but they are not a drop-in proposition. Frame milling is required to fit the decoder and wiring. You have the choice of either use a trade-in (1 for 1 swap) Aztec frame or a new Southern Digital frame, or doing your own preparation.
I have several sets and must say they do perform well. Yes they are DCC friendly in that the motor is isolated for decoder installation. Once the frames are milled they only take about 30 minutes to hard wire a decoder in. I would think that eventually LifeLike will offer these as drop ins, but with the trade off of losing the extra weight that makes these such great pullers (ex: Kato f7's). I still think it will be an improvement and should be done. Now if I can only get them to realease them in my RR's paint! FA1's in SP&S Walther's are you listening? Thank You
I put the FA/FB as industrial strength. Our N Trak club runs most of the month of June at the San Diego County Fair. Trains run 12 hours per day. We have 2 sets for "Club Power". At the end of the fair, when the Kato bearings are screaming for mercy, the LL are going strong. They pull as much as we ask. They operate on dirty track. They are real stump pullers.
Lets see... 2 sets of GN FA-1', 2 sets of GN FA-2', 2 sets of MP FA1's, 1 set of Friso FA-1'... (I'm probably forgetting a few mg Yeah I think they're GREAT! The couplers need to be removed and a better 'close-coupling' arrangement (Unimates) are a major improvement that should be done.
I'd like to see LL put this chassis under the EMD F units, then they'd really have a top seller on their hands. And, LL isn't afraid to offer Undecorated units.
I recall that the late Longtrain [RIP] praised these for their smooth operation and pulling ability. LifeLike actualy had three different runs of these. The first was a FA/B 2 with the old plastic frame and separate weights. The B units were not powered. The second was the shorter FA/B 1 with the new split metal chassis. Then came the FA/B 2 with the split metal chassis. On the ones with the split metal chassis the B units were powered. All of them perform beautifully. I have an ABBA consist of the older FA/B2's and 3 ABBA lashups of the FA/B 1's. For some reason I have never seen the newer FA/B 2's on sale anywhere. Like Russ, I use a Unimate [Red Caboose] dummy coupler between units for close coupling. These are what I call a real Ntrak engine suitable for running long trains with no problems.
Do folks use the Red Caboose (Unimate) short shank or medium shank for these? I'll probably get a bunch for my IM F7's and F3's as well. Love the stump puller photo! Where'd you get the great looking chain? Is your wife missing a necklace?
Stump puller chain *LMAO* Not sure where the chain came from. Ebay I think. But I know what the wife will get for her next birthday!:teeth:
I realize this post is about the FA's and I have a friend who swears by them. He thinks they are the greatest. My Life Like SD9's, GP20's, Erie Builts and even the SW 7 & 9 Switchers do a good job of making the pulls. Priced right, when I first bought them but, it seems as with everything else they are getting priceeeey. For what you are getting which is less then Kato or Atlas in quality, you are paying Kato or Atlas prices. However, they are getting very close. Edited Add On: Just beware they are still Life Like's. Apparently much has changed with regard to the motor and chassis. With that said, I wouldn't trade mine in...they are keepers. By the way, I'm looking for an ATSF, Zebra Stripe, SW7 or SW9 to replace one that was lifted off my layout. See, I do like them...a lot! Can I twist anyone's arm to trade or purchase one from you?
No, because they are body mounted, you have to use the Red Caboose RNP-51060 Unimate couplers with the two holes for pin mounting. I trimmed of the last hole and used a spacer under the stock clip to mount mine.
Life Like FA chassis DCC modifications No... they are not. The FA/FB1's and FA2/FB2's require chassis modification (identical as it turns out) .. and I will 'amplify' and clarify this in a later, i.e., edited, post later. EDITED: 04/20/07 As promised here are photo's of my Life Like ALCO GN FA/FB-1 loco's: (1). ABA set shown on 11 inch radii http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/data/500/MVC-014S3.JPG (2). Close of "close coupled" units on 11 inch radii http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/data/500/MVC-015S1.JPG (3). Bottom view showing Red Caboose RNP-1080 couplers w/short shaft installed: http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/data/500/MVC-016S1.JPG Now someone else said they used Red Caboose RNP-1060 coupler set, but neither RNP-1060 or RNP-1080 are available from Red Caboose as the dies were damaged and/or lost. Now about DCC chassis modifications: I had an ABA set modified for DCC by Aztec Mfg. ( http://www.aztectrains.com) Here are photo's comparing the original non-dcc chassis with a Aztec modified chassis: (1). Photo showing non-modified chassis (top) and modified chassis (bottom): http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/data/500/MVC-009S3.JPG (2). Close up chassis rear-end showing modification: http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/data/500/MVC-010S3.JPG (3) Right side chassis - interior modification (black area): http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/data/500/MVC-011S1.JPG (4). Left side chassis - interior modification (black area): http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/data/500/MVC-013S1.JPG The Aztec DCC modified area is a perfect fit for a DZ123 or DZ143 decoder. There are other decoders that also fit this area from manufacturers such as TCS, LENZ, etc. In any event, I hope this helps about dcc for these loco's. Once the chassis' are modified, installing a decoder is pretty straight forward for Intermediate, or better, modeler. My apologies for posting only photo links, but it seems there is a limit of only four "graphics" per post. ******************************************* I own several ABBA sets of the Life Like FA1/FA2 series loco's. As a GN modeler, the single headlight for me is not a problem; but for those whose roads had dual headlights, adding the second headlight is nothing more than a matter of drilling out the required space. How you choose to go about adding the actual additional headlight, however, is a matter or personal preference and expertise... and that is NOT a snide remark, not intended as such. In any case, my future post will 'show' you what I am referring to. All that said ... these are fantastic loco's. They have great pulling power and I feel they really are on a par with Kato at the very least.
Hmmmm. Red Caboose doesn't list the 51060 in their on line catalog anymore and I haven't found any on line dealers with any listed either. Are there other options?
