I'd like to mount Intermountain F7B body shells, which I've purchased cheaply eBay, on a bunch of Kato F3 frames (of which I've too many). Based on a trial fit, it seems the F3 frame is a bit too long and will need to be milled down. My question: What's the best method of doing this, using familiar tools (i.e., Dremel)? If the Dremel's the way to go, what's the best bit to use? TIA! Background: I'm modeling the Rio Grande's Soldier Summit route circa 1949-1965. It wasn't uncommon for the road to use as many assorted F7s and GPs as were needed to get the train up the hill. Emery Gulash's Rio Grande Odyssey (Green Frog, Vol. 1, preview at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QS5bPf4qrak ) opens with an amazing shot of a mid-1960s coal train just shy of the Nolan Tunnels... with a total of 12 units! As the midterm helper set shows, the F7Bs often disproportionately outnumbered the F7As: GP7 - F7B - F7B - F7A (reversed) - F7B - F7B - F7B - F7A (reversed) Bryan Pfaffenberger Charlottesville, VA
The "best" tool to use to modify Kato F and E frames is a vertical mill, with an end mill. That's what I use for modifying my Kato E's for sound. If you're just going to shorten the frames a bit on either end, a band-sander would work okay too. Third best would be a portable belt sander, and fourth best would be a Dremel. I can't really comment as to what Dremel tool to use since I never use any of my Dremels to modify frames since I have the vertical mill. Fifth best would be a big file. If eyeballing it, always mark the chassis with either tape or a marker and remove a little at a time until you get to your mark. Test-fit, and remove a little more until it's "just right". Depending on how much you have to remove, clamping and using a hack-saw works okay too. Dress the hacksaw cuts with a file and remove the shards and burrs with a file. Cheerio! Bob Gilmore
Bob, Thanks much! I think I'll try the clamp/hack-saw route with file to dress the rough stuff. Will post results. --Bryan
