One of the biggest problems I've been experiencing with my ever expanding layout is transfering power from one module to the next. I originally started out with what most of us have done and that's use an ordinary piece of straight track to join modules together and thus continue power on the line. I found it difficult and tedious at best, when there are more then two tracks, to do this since these pieces have to be installed as the modules are being connected together. Troublesome when two people are doing it, but when I am alone and trying to get these tracks joined together while connecting the modules is almost impossible at best. It is doable, but with a lot of cursing and moving from one side to the other. After several attempts, and failures, I think I've hit upon a way to connect track and modules, thereby transfering power without interruption. What I've done is laid track from both modules almost up to the edge of each. Measuring with an ordinary piece of straight track, I leave enough space on both sides to accommodate an MTL feeder track. Marklin will work as well. This is what I call a drop in piece since neither end is joined to the tracks on both modules. Now, you're probably asking how I get power from one side to the other without the rail joiners? I take a pair of Atlas power connector wires which are soldering to joiners, and install them one section behind where the tracks end on each module. So I'm actually using two pair. On the underside of each module, I connect alligator clamps to the wires. Now I take some wire and run it from the feeder track down between the modules just before closing them up tight, and put aligator clamps on them as well. Now I clamp them all together making sure that all reds are together and the same with the black's. This worked extremely well during testing, as power is continuous across the feeder from one module to the other. But one problem I have discovered is alignment. Each set of tracks has to be perfectly aligned with the feeder on both sides or you get bumps which can, if severe enough, cause derailments. So far I've been able to keep this alignment rigid with the use of straight pins and foam nails but I'm finding that the slightest jaring of the modules will put the alignment out and it doesn't seem to matter how rigid and stable the modules are. So it's back to the drawing board to try to come up with a way to keep the tracks aligned without using pins and foam nails which cause the holes they make to get bigger and thus loose their rigidity. If anyone has any ideas on how I might accomplish this, please feel free to contribute. I'll entertain any and all thoughts.
Well we could have made life a lot easier for you. Märklin makes an expanding track 8592 that is nominally the length of their straight 8500 piece (4-3/8" or 110mm). THe 8592 expands and contracts from 3-15/16" to around 4-3/4 (100-120mm). http://www.ajckids.com/TRAINS/detail.ASP?Manufacturer=Marklin&Item=8592 These are quite reliable for contact and running, being used in dozens of shows, dozens of modules by dozens of groups. No power feeders needed. However, as a practice, power cables joining the modules are commonly used. Some use wire nuts (twisted wire together, OK for home module that might go elsewhere once in a while) or some sort of connectors. Could be a "Molex" molded plastic or more commonly a D-sub connector like the Z-Bend Track standard. Power requirements are so low with Z scale, any connctor will work. http://www.zbendtrack.com/Z-Bend_Track_Manual_2004.pdf See pages 23-34 about the wiring. See pages 10, 15 for the intermodule track. Glad we can help. .
Newtoscale Most of us run a bus power wire under each module to carry the power from one module to the next which are joined with a plug and socket and each line is colour coded so you don't cross connect stuff. So we do not depend on the track to pass power from module to module. For connecting the track we use Marklin expansion tracks and when terminating our track we make sure the gap is shorter than the length of the expansion track so can install one end to one module and then compress the expansion track and allow it to expand as you connect to the other module. If my memory is correct the expansion track is 110mm long and we stop the track 50mm from the edge of the module. You want the connection below the track to ensure you do not loose power across a gap as the modules age and you put those expansion tracks in and out over a series of shows over the years they age and the rail joiners no longer do as good a job as they once did of carrying the power across the gap. On my modules I use red and black wire for my power drops to the track, red to the rail closest to front edge and black to the rail towards the rear. The plugs for the front track I colour red and the rear track I colour black. Between shows I pin the expansion tracks to the track where they will be used the next time out. Another method you can use if you want to use fixed track then cut them to length to fit the gap and put you rail joiners on one end. on the other end use an exacto knife and clean off the spike heads on enough ties to allow the rail joiner to be pushed onto the rail and be pushed completely under the rail end. Then when you are ready to connect this end move the track into place and use a screw driver with a slot cut with a dremel tool to push the rail joiner out from under the rail and across the joint joining the two rails.
Thanks so much guys for this info. I have heard much about these Marklin expansion tracks and I have investigated getting some for my layout. Unfortunately, wherever I go to get them, the dealer or whatever, never has any in stock and can't give me an answer as to when they will be getting more in. After 3 years of trying, I have simply given up. That's why I've been trying other methods. Garth your idea is a great one and I seem to recall trying a variation of this method using flex track. I wasn't satified with the results though because I stopped using it. Perhaps I should try again. I like the expansion tracks though. Now if only I could lay my hands on 20 of them, I'd be a happy camper.
newtoscale- Have you tried this vendor? His stock list shows 22 in stock & He updates his list everyday. Click on this link & scroll down to item 8592 http://www.modellbahnott.com/marklinhomepage/onlineorder/8to86999.html Wayne
Many in N scale freemo are laying track to the end of the module. You may be suprised what your tiny trains will tolerate. We do have some gaps that appear significant but everything runs fairly well.
Connecting Zmod modules In the Zmod standard we do the same. We put a screw under each track and solder the track to the screw. Its easy to modify if needed. See a few images from my buildingblog: The building blog, date 23.03.05 and 14.03.04
I was thinking of soldering to the top of a bolt and leaving a notch under the rails in the faceplate with a groove in the subroadbed and roadbed so one could adjust with a nut that could be tightened from the back side of the faceplate. You could also leave say 6" of rail loose/sliding in the ties so you could have 2 small gaps rather then risk one large gap at the joint. We are starting to build some smaller branch line modules and I intend to try this approach. I must add that the N track guys are always spending extra time with different lengths of track to add between modules where we just align and tighten. We are usually ready a couple hours before they are, so the but joints save tons of time to.
This idea of running track right up to the edge of the module and fastening it there is a great idea and I've seen this on N and HO layouts at the local train show. I tried this once, but couldn't make it work. All my modules have foam sheeting on a wood frame. so the only way I can fasten track is with straight pins. If I were to use screws as shown in the pictures, I've got nothing to secure them too. I supposed though that once I was satisfied with a particular module and started putting everything in place never to be removed again, this could work because the track would be glued to the roadbed which in turn is glued to the riser, which in turn is glued to the foam base. I can see it working if all modules are fastened together in such a way that they don't shift. I use T-nuts and bolts, 2 per module. This keeps them rigid and steady. The other thing here is, on my modules the foam runs from 1 inch to 6 inches in depth depending on the level my track is at. As I lay my track to test design, grades, etc., during the construction phase, I pin everything until I'm sure this is how I want things to go. Then I start gluing all of it in place. When I get to the actual track laying, I glue the 1/2 inche risers, then add my plasta-cloth and anything else I need at this point including wiring, then lay and glue the track on the risers. Since the foam goes right to the edge of the module, there is nothing to fasten track to until I actually am at the gluing step. This is what I did originally, but I found that if for some reason I had to adjust the track up or down or side to side, I had to pry it away from the roadbed just enough to get whatever movement I needed. While it did work to some degree, it left a mess at the edge of each modules. Hence I need a better way to do this, hence my idea of the drop in pieces, hence the need for expansion track, and on and on and on. Does everyone get what I'm saying here? I like this idea of running track to the edge and it would definitely solve my problem, but with no wood to fasten to, I can't see it working and gluing can be a problem sometimes. I like the idea of running track to the edge and fastening it there, but I also like the idea of the expansion tracks too. Maybe I'm making this more complicated then it needs to be. Perhaps I need to step back and take a longer or different look at the situation.
I just remembered something. I looking at these pics again, it's clear to me that either flex track or Marklin is being used here. I use MTL track almost exclusively unless I have a need to use flex or Marklin, which I've done occasionally. So my question now is, how would this work with Marklin track since the plastic roadbed covers the entire length of a particular piece of track? This is where I had the problem of allignment after gluing and why I have a mess at the edge of some of my modules.
I use all brands, MTL flex, Märklin flex and section and Peco flex. They all have plastic roadbed, so it is easy to cut and remove, so the track can be soldered. Why not glue on some small piece of wood to the wood frame, just under the track, so it is more space to set in the screews?
With the edge to edge connection, beside the very accurate interface, there is another problem; how to deal with the rail joiners. You need to clear at least the length of the rail joiners, so they can be on one side when the modules are attached, then slide them out to connect the rails. This is possibly doable when always the same modules are connected to each other, so the rails are adjusted and secured accordingly. But in our case (large number of various shape and size modules built by different members with various tolerances), the configuration changes show by show, the layouts are big, the floor conditions are sometimes bad beyond imagination. If we have only 1/8" (3mm) +/- misalignments we're happy, because that is easily handled by the Marklin adjustable tracks, but for direct joints even 1/32" misalignment makes the assembly impossible. My humble opinion is, in the case of Z_Bend Track Modules, no substitute for the Marklin adjustable tracks. Old rule: if it works, don't fix it.
Rail joiners We don't use railjoiners. Just aligning the tracks so they meet as good as possible. This works ok. But, of course, some times we need to do some adjustments. And you have some very good points above. Our way of doing it works best for modules with 1 or 2 tracks on the edge, because it's difficult to be accurate enough. For ZBend Track modules I do not think our solution will work, beacuse you have 4 tracks to connect. It could work internally when bigger modules have joints and they can be putting up the same way all time. On my own Saguaro river module I have 5 joints, but it's difficult to produce it accurate and the plywood is moving because of the humidity and temperature change. One way to fix it is to place all tracks, glue or solder them in the joint and cut with a disc in the joint, when the tracks are mounted the first place. Another solution for the Märklin joint track is to use short pieces of track and railjoiners. We used that on an old HO-modulesystem and had many different length pieces, like 50mm, 51mm, 52 mm, etc to take care of different distance to the edge.
There is another, actually fairly elegant solution, and it's the option of user. It works with every modular system with setbacks. Install the adjustable track inside the module, as the first track member. It can be partially hidden via wood planks as part of road crossing, it can be built into a small bridge, or just hide it with busy landscape or structure. This way the connecting track can be a pre-cut fully ballasted piece, and blended into the landscape. I'll try this on my next module.
All these ideas and variations sound great. I like them all. I don't know if this is a problem or not but there is no part of my layout that conforms to the Z-track specifications. My modules run, or will be running anywhere from 50 inches from floor to rail top down as low and 38.5 inches. All modules are or will be fastened together with T-nuts and bolts so that if one moves, they all move, but by and large, they give each other added stability. At least I think so. The 4 I have now seem to anyway. When my layout is eventually complete, I will have 15 modules total. 13 at 2'x4' and 2 at 30 inches by 4'. On all but two, I will be running 4 tracks, but not configured the Z-track method. 2 tracks will be running down the back side of my entire layout with loops at each end for continuous operation. This is one line. The other track twists and turns all over the place over the length of the layout with loops also at both ends for continous operation but there is very little on this line that is straight for a long run. It goes here and there, up and down and around and back again. Since I don't belong to a club, unless you call my son's and I a club, I am not concerned about matching any of my layout up with someone elses. But having said that, I would eventually like to either be part of a Z club or start my own, and then I could build a transition module or two to stick at either end of my layout to connect up with someone else's. But I'm getting ahead of myself here. In reading all the responses, it is clear to me that there are as many different ways to do this as one can imagine. It's just a matter I suppose of finding out which idea works best. It isn't feasable for me because of the manner of the way I have constructed my modules, to glue additional pieces of wood to the frames to fasten track to. This would be great if my foam sheets didn't extend right to the edge of the frame below. To do this, I'd have to trim back the foam sheet to expose the frame below and at this point, that's something I'm not willing to do because much of my current landscape comes right to the edge. Perhaps I should have forseen these problems during the design and construction phase of the frames. As for the railjoiners, if I understand what is being said here, when making allowance for track spacing, room must be left for the rail joiners to slide back from the edge when not connected to the other module. At least I think that's what is meant. I could be misinterpreting that response. As for short pieces of track cut to different lengths, that two is a great idea but it brings me back to my original problem with trying to slide rail joiners into position while fastening modules together. Difficult with two people to look after 4 tracks at once. Impossible for just one person. Since I run almost exclusively with MTL track, I considered the idea of drill small holes through the plastic at the leading edge of the modules and with a tiny screw, fasten it to the module. This would work great if I had wood to fasten it to, but with foam, I don't think it would work unless there is some other way to accomplish this same thing. I still like this idea of running the tracks to the edge but with the other ideas being tabled here, I just don't know which way to go. Perhaps I should use a piece of flex track with joiners at both ends, then I can drop them into place, slide the joiners onto the fixed track and that will solve my problem with power transfer. And I could do this after the modules are fastened tight together because there would be just enough clearance to drop these pieces in and take them out again without having to worry about alignment or all the other muss and fuss. AND, there would be no need for under module power connections of any kind because the power would be continuous from one module to the other via the rail joiners. HUMMMM! Something more to think about.
Sorry for being so long winded. Sometimes I tend to take the long way around in order to make a point. I guess I'm just trying to make things a clear a possible for everyone to understand. Again I appologize.
An example If your modules are connected to the same module all the time, this could be a solution. I have seen it, but have no images available, so I draw a sketch(No scanner, so I took a photo of it). Bolt the modules together and install the tracks, crossing the joint. Before you install the track, remove 3-4 ties on both sides. In that space, you can install a small piece of veroboard og Printed Circuit, cut the copper between the tracks and solder the PC under the track. When both are installed, glue it to your foambase and after that, cut the track in the joints with a cutter disc. Then you will have nice clean tracks, always aligned. With small holes for the bolts or some aligment pins, it will always be in the same position after the modules are reattached.
Another great idea. Interesting. Yes my modules are always bolted together in a constant order. They have to be or the main theme of my layout not function and the scenery of one module ties into the next. I sort of build them in order and they can't be interchanged or nothing will fit. Does that make sense?
No problem. Even with Z bend, certain modules work better next to others. Some of them are designed to work together. They are still able to connect in the regular way, but usually at shows are connected the same every time.
Since they are in order, you can either 1) lay track across the sections, soldered onto brass screws set back about 1 rail joiner like previous examples, then slide back the joiners or 2) cut back 2-1/8 and use the Marklin expansion tracks (at shows) and cut track at time (you'll never cut exactly 2-1/8 back at each location so individual cut track specific to each location). Note: these cut track sections will NOT work at shows - trust us. The leveling of the modules, etc. can create +/- 1/16 (1mm) or more, creating lots of trouble. Just use the Marklin track for the shows. .
