My track work is far from perfect so it is definately the same as the prototype. One thing I try and do is run trains as much as possible to fix and bad joints etc before I do any scenery. It is very common though to tune in locos and rollingstock to meet the layout track standard. It is common for a visitor to bring rollingstock and locomotives only to have them often derail.
i was a little upset with my track work. then realized the little wiggles and dips looked a lot like AGR action. as long as the train makes it around the layout i think imperfections add interest. david
Was that some of that Life Like junk that we got several years ago> I have pretty much trashed all of that and replaced it with code 55.
Whenever I lay track I do my utmost to get it as smooth and trouble free as I can.You see I hate to tear out and redo anything. On my HO switching layout I made a minor oops..The newer RTR Athearn cars with the .088" wheels was fast in showing me the error..My cars that has the more common .110" wheels pass over that trouble spot.Now,I took my time laying track on my N scale switching layout.You see I knew from years ago that N scale needs near perfect track work for smooth operation and switching while HO is a little more forgiving.
Using the low profile wheel sets whether plastic or metal will "test" any imperfections in your track work.. Stay cool and run steam......
Nothing is perfect, but my trackwork is probably the closest I'll get in any aspect of modeling. I have no grades, no turnouts (yet) and no radii less than 25". In four years of operation I've never had a derailment due to trackwork. My biggest challenge was trying to lay perfectly straight sections with that springy ME code 55. Fortunately, Atlas has fixed that.
Perfect trackwork does not exist. I haven't laid any track yet. So, yes, my trackwork must be perfect
Brakie you beat me to it. I was about to ask if larger scales are more forgiving. As to the original question... HAAAAA! yeah right. I;'m sure you've read my posts about my track failing both here and Atlas forum. LOL
Hey, give the guy credit - he can honestly say he's never had a derailment because of his trackwork! Now, if you want to see track problems, try NTrack modular setups. Our club has had a hummer of a time with uneven floors, legs warping, uneven temperature (set up in the morning and then HALF of the layout ends up under the sun) and just plain old setting modules up off level. Definately adds to the excitement.
Seeing as how I don't have a layout yet, I will have to refer to the track on my NTRAK modules. I must have close to 60 linear feet of modules. Most of my track is OK and I have very few problems with it. Most problems are the connector tracks when the modules don't line up just right to give a hump or a dip at the junction between modules. Also loose sloppy connectors will cause a lose of power. But that is all part of setting up modules. One of these days.......I will build my layout......
On my previous N scale layout, I rarely had any problems, either running long trains or switching, but occasionally something would fall off! But I always blamed the item of stock, not my trackwork I began converting stock to MT low profile wheels, and did not notice any appreciable deterioration in running. And I am positive that my trackwork was NOT perfect! Just shows how forgiving rolling stock is these days (if you make sure they are weighted correctly)
Regarding the expansion factor of nickel silver track it is similar to brass. Since the term 'nickel silver' is rather ambiguous in that there is no precise formulation of alloys that make it The exact co efficientof expasion is rather ambiguous also. However, it approximates that of brass. Now assumig that one installs track in a room with a comfortable environment of about 70 degrees F one can calculate the expansion/ contraction of the track. A gap of .02 inches between pieces of flex track will handle any expansion problems. The flex track must not be soldered to the track on either side of it in order to allow it to expand/contract with no damage. Our Ntrak modules are constructed that way and survive trips in minus 0 degree weather in winter as well as +90 degree weather in summer. For those who like math the numbers are as follows: Coefficient of expansion for brass .0000188 per unit of length / degrees Celsius. So to go from 0 degrees F [-17.77777 degrees Celsius] to 100 degrees F [37.77777 degrees Celsius] is a total of 55.55 degrees celsius. 55.55 multiplied by .0000188 = .0010443 per unit of length. so a 36 inch piece of flex track at 0 degrees F [-17.7777 degrees Celsius] would expand by .0376 inches [.0010443 X 36 inches] if heated to 100 degrees F. However since no one really lays track at 0 degrees that range is too large. Figure on a 50 degree range from 70 -120 degrees F and that figure is cut in half to .0188 inches. So get a .02 thick piece of plastruct styrene sheet to use as a buffer beteen pieces of flex track when installing it and you are all set.
Thanks, Inkaneer! I always appreciate it when I get the real numbers, rather than some fogged memory from the past. I'll run the numbers after the weekend. I think I'll go from 50 F. to 100 F, converting everything to C. I think, minus your .02 spacer, I'll get somewhere between 3/16 and 3/8 of an inch of deflection, just from practice.
The track that I have so far is decent, but there are a couple spots that I'll need to psend some time on. I'll probably end up pulling up those two spots and rebuilding them. It's no good when your hobby gets frustrating!
For those Ntrak-ites out there our club always had problems with the bridge tracks also. Every set up required different bridge tracks. We had them color coded and that helped. But the best thing we did was to have a special gauge machined that located the track the correct distance back from the side edge as well as the correct centerline distances and the correct distance from the front of the module. All modules built using this gauge to locate the track take the same bridge track so there are no wide gaps between because someone used a smaller track . Another improvement we did was to eliminate the 'ski jump' at the ends of the modules. We added a 1X2 located 6" back from the side edge of the module. This creates a cantilever effect with the module top and eliminates the bowl shape deflection caused by an otherwise basic beam construction. We also seal the wood on all sides and only use screws, no glue, to fasten the module together. All of our modules will be built this way in the future. We are currently working on some ideas to eliminate the use of rail joiners to fasten the bridge tracks and at the same time provide electrical continuity.
i know if i post this my layout will fall apart, but here goes. i have heard so many with flex track problems. i have had very little. i am a rookie. i have turned and twisted track while installing, i have installed the loose rail on the inside and have gaps over 3/16". i have never had a problem that an extra track nail wedged against a tie or did not fix. david i know when i get home my train wil not make it around the layout and when i wire the track i laid last night it will not work either.
Yup. This is called Murphy's Law. Guess it's a probability scenario. It's happened to me. Such as when you proudly note, in public, how nothing has ever derailed on your NTRAK module. Sure enough, right behind you 50 cars are going on the ground....... Boxcab E50
