Hi All, I started laying track last night on my first layout (N scale using Peco track and turnouts, code 80). I joing the first two flex tracks together with NS rail clips(Atlas) that I had no hand and solder, no problem. Then I work on two cross overs that are on 1.5" centers with the short piece of straight track in between the turnouts, the clips seem to bulky(large) so I pin the turnouts and track to some cork sheets and line up everything and solder the joins without the clip and was happy with the out come. Do you use the clips or not, when joining track?
Hi Dwyane, Your method is ok I suppose as long you You take care of the joint between the rails.First, you can file slightly the end side of each rail before soldering them. To be sure that there is no rough spot (which could derail wheels or stop an engine at very low speed )just slip a steel rule (fingers can work also but less efficiently)on the top of the rail and inside it.If the rules run smoothly, your joint is ok. And don't forget to cut gaps regularly (every 3 feet seems to be carefull) to allow your rails to expend during hot weather.Take care also to shift the gaps on each rails to prevent wheels to "fall" in. It is true that rail "clips" are sometimes tricky to install in N-scale and should not been bent (even slightly)to insure good running. Indeed it is wise to use the same brand for track and clips if you change your mind. Hope this will help, Happy modelling, marc
I use track clips/joiners with solder. I first insure that the joiner makes a good solid contact on each rail end before I solder. Now, that said, I have never cut a rail for expansion. I have never seen that as a problem because I never solder all my rail joints. In my experience, expansion and contraction has nothing to do eith the rails but the material that the track is mounted on. If you leave gaps at turnouts and st several connections, the rail will not cause problems. The sub roadbed or table will kill you if it expands or shrinks over days, month or even years. (Voice of experience) My railroad is in a basement with terrific hot cold damp dry swings and every time there has been a problem, it is the mounting structure and not the track. Rule of thumb, never put opposing joints together on curves. Stagger them. If you use solder, be sure that the inside of the rail iproperly cleaned and shaped. Check it with your NMRA gage. Wheels don't jump or pick the track in a curve if the track is laid properly. Now that I've stirred everyone up, I'll ride off into the sunset. Roger Roger Hensley - rhensley@anderson.cioe.com == http://cid.railfan.net/eci_new.html == == East Central Indiana Railroad ==
Hi Roger I take for grant what you said about expansion joint because the voice of experience is one of the most precious thing in this old world I was just repeating what some guys working with code 40 rails here in France told me about it. Anyway, as I cut gaps around frogs and on sidings for current isolation (my sidings are not very long due to my board of directors )I had never to cut an expansion joint anywhere You have made a good point about gaps in curves : that the best way to make the curve square The only trouble I have with gaps is to find a cutting disk narrow enough to make the gap as small as possible (in N-scale) Have any idea ? Happy modelling, marc
Just a quick question- When soldering, is there a specific type of solder that should be used? I am planning to solder a bit of track tonight and I'm wodering if the thin rosin core stuff I have will work ok.
If you pre-heat the rails and joiner first, then touch the solder to the gap between rails, it should flow throughout the joiner area by capillary action. That makes it neat and no big globs of solder are left to have to file off. Best to apply solder iron to outside of rail and let solder flow to inside. Let cool until "Frosted" before moving rail. On nickle silver rail, best solder is a eutectic silver solder and flux. If you have touched rail with finger where you want solder, clean with solvent before applying flux. Nickle silver rail needs to be chemically clean just as brass does, but do not use acid core solder!! [ 17 March 2001: Message edited by: watash ]
