Finally, this morning I laid the first track on my first layout ever (or at least in 15 years). I started with module 2 (http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/jkristia layout05). Now of course I have a few questions. I have glued the flextrack (Atlas N Flextrack) to the cork roadbed, using a drop of white glue every 10 inches or so, I assume this should be enough to hold the tracks in place until they are ballasted ?. I am using Atlas #6 N custom switches, but haven’t received the under the table switchmachines yet. Can I just go ahead and drill a hole for the switchmachine connection to the switch, and if so, what size should I drill the hole ?. I know these are very basic questions, but I just want to make sure I’m not doing anything “wrong”. Thanks Jesper
Hi Jesper, Personally I wouldn't have glued the track in place, I would have used track pins as you might need to move it. Secondly, what type of switch machines are you going to use with your atlas turnouts? If you had been using Peco track (code 55 fine scale) you could have used the Peco PL10 switch machine which fits onto the turnout itself.I don't know if the PL10 can be mounted to Atlas turnouts not ever having seen them. There are on the market SEEP motors which just need a small hole drilled next to the throw bar on the turnout, again, it would be better not to glue the turnouts in place as you might need some movement to get it right. Hope this is of some help. cheers Paul
I followed your advice Paul, and used track nails for the rest of the module. (and of course I had to move some of the switches little bit, so glad I didn't glue them down ). Now my next question is, is it a good idea to solder the track to the switches ?. I have only soldered all the flex - flex joints, but none of the flex - switch joints. It's all one block since I am planning on running DCC. Thanks Jesper
HI: These parts sometimes can be very expensive. Soldering the switch joints to the track sometimes ruins the switch action. Very, very carefully, skip joint to joint and please use something for a heat sink. I use track pins for any type of track, since changes are imminent, we all know. The idea of using glue for the track every 10 inches or so is great. A process that is successful for me is, lay the track as you normally would. Run the loco on the track, if there are difficulties now is the time to find them. Then I mark with a dark marker pen along one side of the track. Remove the track and spread a thin film of cement on the back side of the ties. Place the track back on the layout and carefully position it along the marker lines. Make all connections and run the loco again. After all is finished then I usually ballast. Good Luck
Jesper has raised the question of soldering rail joints. What is the general feeling amongst Trainboard members ?......Is soldering really necessary ? I have never experienced any voltage drop problems across joints made with metal rail-joiners but I have caused damage to trackwork and switches when soldering on feed wires. For this reason I always try to position these feed wires well away from expensive switches.
From the looks of my layout, I would say that maybe 10% of the switches have some solder connection on them. As close as I can figure these were done in desperation for the electrical connection.
First, there's no "wrong" way to do anything. It's your layout. If it looks good to you, then it's OK with me. Experience has taught me a few lessons. I have completely eliminated track spikes. They're not-to-scale, look ugly, and often bend. Your glue idea was good, but I would recommend using yellow carpenter's glue. I would also recommend running a bead down the center of the cork roadbed, then using your finger, spread it out to a uniform, thin layer the width of the track. Lay your track, and hold in position with the big plastic thumb tacks until it dries. If you ever need to re-position, just take a dish of water and clean paint brush, dab on the water to the area you want to change, wait for the glue to soften, then re-position and hold with pins. You can also remove track this way. I solder all joints. Use a 30 / 40-watt soldering iron, and do it quickly, so you don't melt the plastic. If you feel it's taking too long, don't hesitate, remove the iron, clean the tip, and try again. Practice first on old/scrap pieces first. Heat sinks are also a good idea. I don't do this for electrical connection, I do it for stability and strength. As mentioned, it's imperative that you use power drops every 3 to 4 feet, and not rely on track joints to conduct current. If you feel really brave, you should also solder feeder wires to the points rails of your turnouts, so your locos won't stall on the turnout. It sounds like you're well on your way! Happy Railroading! MOPAC 1
Lately I have been using 1/4" foamcore for my roadbed. After test fitting the track , I spread a thin layuer of white glue slightly wider than the track. I will then lay the track down in the proper location and sprinkle the ballast over the still wet glue. This method has the advantage of being quick and relitively mess free. And I dont have to clean diluted matt medium off the rails when I'm done. As far as soldering the joints, I do it only where nessassary.......Mike
Mike, you may want to consider applying some paste solder flux to the area you intend to solder to. Use a pipe cleaner, and put it on spareingly. Then "Tin" the area with a bit of solder first. I use nickle silver rail, so have to "tin" it before soldering copper wires to it. I also "tin" the wire for 1/4" first too. Then dab a bit of flux on the wire and touch with the soldering iron and it works really fast. The plastic ties do not have time to get hot. Flux also helps keep your soldering iron tip clean too. If the tip gets scaled or discolored, it is too hot, so work it over with your sal-ammoniac block then wipe clean and re-tin the tip. I do the soldering gun (Weller) the same way. Remember, solder will run anywhere the flux does. This method of soldering is sometimes called "sweat soldering" because you are not adding solder, unless you need to build it up. It makes a neater job. Just use a damp rag to wipe off any residue solder flux before attempting to paint the area. (I also wipe the area with a Q-Tip or pipe cleaner dipped in alcohol to get ride of any oil from my fingers too.)
On the subject of soldering rails for connection rather than electrical purposes; as MOPAC 1 says there's no right or wrong way, but I've found that when I have to move stuff, spiked is easier to move than solder. I'm HO gauge and use code 70 Shinohara track. On soldering in general; go find a micro-mark catalogue and look into their economy model resistance soldering set. This method eliminates much of the hassle of a regular soldering iron. The tweezers or pin does not get hot untill you hit the foot pedal and then you're heating for only 1-2 sec. For the most part you are heating only the area between the tweezers, if you leave it on too long it will melt stuff in the area. I regularly solder 20ga wire to my code 70 track without any heat sinks or tie melting problems. I also solder all my switch points the same way. I'm using an "American Beauty"[no cracks on the name] by Resistance Technologies, a much bigger unit because I also use it to solder brass details on my engines and it gets a lot of use. It is the single best tool I have on my layout!!! LOL
