Anyone know of a website or other resource offering a listing of the various lamps used in different Loco's, etc? As I am putting in decoders, I am finding that some manufacturer's lamps hold up.. and others don't. Consequently, I have "popped" a few headlights in a couple of Life-Like and Atlas engines. I would like to replace them as well as get the right size resistor in the circuit to protect the replacement lamp.. or L.E.D. ALSO... I checked w/ Atlas and replacement L.E.D. headlamps are (L.E.D.'s) are $10 a hit. Kinda pricey
If you are blowing lamps you either aren't using resistors with a high enough ohm rating or you are running your DCC system with the wrong scale setting. To prevent this problem on my layout, I have settled on 1 bulb type for all of my locomotives, excluding some that come with decoders already installed. I calculated the correct resistor for this bulb based upon an Excel program called resistor.xls available on the Digitrax Yahoo Group. The second thing I did was instead of running my HO layout on the HO setting, I selected the N scale setting. This won't be possible if you are operating an N scale layout. The key thing here is to run your bulbs at less than their rating and your bulbs will last a lot longer. David
Dave: I know the Lenz 100 has voltage setting for N scale from 10.5v to 14 volts. I run the JJJ&E at 11 volts and find that an optimum voltage. Most DCC systems are set at 16 volts as a default value and that's too high for N scale. Stay cool and run steam.....
What scale and what type of decoders (hardwired or PnP)? I have never blown a headlight on any of my N scale decoders, but all of mine run LED's. I also have my Digitrax Command station / booster set for N scale which limits the voltage 12.0 volts. Harold
Harold: Many run the DCC system at the default voltage of 16 volts unknowingly. Stay cool and run steam......
Good points on the V settings. I model HO. I have a Digitrax Super Empire and I run it on the "HO" setting. I am reading a constant 14Volts everywhere on my layout. The point regarding the resistors is a good one. I would like to standardize lamps but with everything I have to do w/ models and my layout, that is down the list. I do know that some of my engines run LED's, some run lamps, etc. After I have put in decoders, I have had no problem w/ some engines, and problems w/ other engines. I am using a smorgushboard of decoders and engines. I have TCS, Digitraxx, Soundtraxx, and LOKSound decoders. I have Bachman Spectrum, Atlas, Intermountain, Stewart, and LifeLike Proto2000 engines. I think one smart thing to do that I have been remise in doing is putting the engine on my programming track, testing output voltage to the lamps, and making the appropriate adjustment at that point. I will certainly do so from no on.
Yes. All of my engines run great. I have good response and control all the way through the throttle. Depending on gearing, and the decoder CV settings, I even have some engines I cannot "turn loose" as it were. Some engines at full throttle look more like a slot car track than a model RR. Of course, I never get anywhere near full thottle. I much prefer to see a train rambling along at a good scale speed of about 40 to 50 MPH. This is especially true w/ some of the short freights I run set in the 10 year span from 1945 to 1955. Sometimes I run a passenger "special" on Sundays and I will run that a little faster. Usually behind an (Atlas) FP7 or a 4-8-2 Mountain. Yes. I get as much a kick out of running these puppies as I do putting a new building online or finishing up a special decal job on a car. 14volts works great for me.
