After laying track on my layout for several weeks, I have found out that my track laying talent leaves much to be desired. This is my first layout after dabbling in HO for awhile. I soldered the track joints rather than using the standard track connectors as soldering seemed easier, until I started running trains. Derailments are everywhere. I used what I thought was a decent soldering iron that I have had for a long time. However, my flex track joints are not as neat as I wanted. I am wondering how everyone else joins their track and can you recommend a soldering iron you like. And finally, how do you all recommend I clean up the mess I seem to have made of my track. The track is glued down with Elmers white glue so it will come up easily and I'm using open grid l-girder benchword. This forum has been very helpful. Thanks to all.
Well MR, you may feel like you are in a world of hurt, but all is not lost yet. If derail is your only problem, then there is a bright side. Your electrical circuit is OK. The kind of soldering iron seems to be ok because it did the job. The thing to do is clean the soldering tip of excess solder. Heat each joint, only until one rail will come loose from the other one and slip one away from the other rail. Slip a piece of thin aluminum sheet (Beer or coke can) between the two rail ends to keep them from bonding together again. Heat the rail on top and wipe off all the solder globs you can while hot. (A wet sponge works good here). Change rails, and wipe off the other rail. Let cool and slip a rail joiner onto one rail. Align the rails again and slip the rail joiner half way onto the "empty" rail to align the two together. Make sure the gauge is correct, then lightly heat the joint again and just touch a little solder to sweat the joint together again. Solder on the outside. Except were we need a circuit break, and have to use an insulated rail joiner, we always use a metal joiner to insure the rail's alignment. If we have a large layout, or track longer than 6 feet continuous run, we usually will solder the joiner to only one rail, leaving the other rail unsoldered. Then we solder one end of a #20 or so wire to the soldered rail, form an "S" or "U" loop about the middle of the wire, then solder the free end to the free rail about 1/4" away from the joiner. This will provide the needed circuit, yet allow for the rails to expand and contract with changes in temperature without loss of circuit. Leave a gap about the thickness of 3 sheets of paper between these rails so the rails can move both directions. They will slip in the joiner, but stay aligned. We do it this way on all rail joints as we lay track. There are some small layouts that have run a long time successfully using only the joiners to make the circuit, but they are rare. Be sure to file any excess solder off the top and inside of both rails to allow smooth passage of the wheel flanges. And NEVER use acid core solder, only rosin core solder, and paste flux especially on brass rail. The soldered joint should look bright and shiney when finished. A dull or frosted look will be a cold joint, and will fail in time. Just re-heat it and remove the iron. A standard iron is better usually than a pencil or gun type, though both do have their uses. Take your time, because without good track you wont enjoy your layout. Then keep the track clean. Best to clean once a month, or as needed. You will be surprised at the results when finished. We have all gone through this, you have just joined the ranks of the old timers! Welcome abord!
