Layout Design Comments/Critique

Jim_OH Apr 2, 2002

  1. Jim_OH

    Jim_OH TrainBoard Member

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    I have finished my first iteration on my first N Scale layout. The Right Track .ral file can be found here for download.

    It will be built on a 30"x78" hollow core door. The framework will be based primarily on that used for the Adrisport & Codyville Railroad.

    The layout uses a two track main: one eastbound and one westbound. The industrial sidings are colored individually and the two orange sidings at the bottom of the layout are for expansion. I plan to add an 18"x78" yard layout off the lower left side of the layout and another 30"x78" hollow core door layout off the right side of the layout. Main Line switches are all remote throw and the industrial line switches are manual throw. The structure diagrams are there mainly for illustration and at this time do not represent any particular industry type.

    Your comments are welcomed and appreciated.
     
  2. rsn48

    rsn48 TrainBoard Member

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    I'm doing something wrong, but I can't open it.
     
  3. ak-milw

    ak-milw TrainBoard Member

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    Your not the only one!!!!!!! :eek:
     
  4. leghome

    leghome TrainBoard Member

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    Jim
    You need to change it to a jpg or gif file. Unless you have the Atlas software I know of now other programs that will open this file.

    [ 02 April 2002, 02:33: Message edited by: leghome ]
     
  5. Jim_OH

    Jim_OH TrainBoard Member

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    Ahhh...the first link is for a gif file, the actual url for that one is:

    http://home.insight.rr.com/miladysmart/mrr_layout/Jim_RR_3.gif

    the second is the same except for the end is .ral vice .gif

    http://home.insight.rr.com/miladysmart/mrr_layout/Jim_RR_3.ral

    I've tested both of the links and they work for me. I apologize for the confusion, this is my first post in this forum with URL's or PIC's and I thought I had done it correctly so they'd work for everyone else. When you click on the second link it should give you the opportunity to download the file vice display it, but you would need to have Atlas' Right Track software to view it.

    Thanks,
     
  6. Jim_OH

    Jim_OH TrainBoard Member

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    [​IMG]

    For those that the links don't seem to be working for, I'm hoping this shows up for everyone.
     
  7. yankinoz

    yankinoz TrainBoard Member

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    Can I assume right-hand running? If so, half of your sidings face the "wrong" way requiring a run around or need to be accessed using the 'wrong main' - this complicates switching moves. Depending on what you are going for this can be a good thing - but if you want to switch one train while letting a second 'do laps' it will be less fun [​IMG]
     
  8. yankinoz

    yankinoz TrainBoard Member

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    Duh! If you are left hand running the other half are the 'wrong way' Geez what was I thinking...

    Actually I really do like the track plan. I am a bit worried about the S curve near the yellow siding. It's a good idea to get some straight track in between reverse curves - if you run any long equipment (scale 60' or longer) you may end up having derailment problems there.

    Another thing to think about - shortening the sidings in the center and make room for a double sided backdrop. Then you get two scenes instead of one.

    Ohhh and the 'expansion' tracks are great ways to have a sort of staging - these can work as 'interchange' tracks where you drop off and pick up cars that are left there by an other railroad. The 'other railroad' is really your hands [​IMG]
     
  9. rsn48

    rsn48 TrainBoard Member

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    I agree with Rob, especially about a back drop down the middle of the layout. It will actually make your layout feel bigger. To make this work, have your layout at at least 45 to 50 inches high, with a backdrop of around 18 to 24 inches high so you can't see the other side.

    The layout looks good, especially if you are planning to run passenger trains. After the final adjusting, it seems you are ready to start.
     
  10. Jim_OH

    Jim_OH TrainBoard Member

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    Interesting thought...a question though...could the backdrop curve through the layout instead of say cutting it in half either side to side or corner to corner? I'll add what I'm talking about and see if you think it works that way.

    Thanks for the comments and ideas..
     
  11. Jim_OH

    Jim_OH TrainBoard Member

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    I adjusted the original picture to show what I was talking about. The turns in the backdrop would be rounded and the area in front of the backdrop that was added would be a small lake.
     
  12. rsn48

    rsn48 TrainBoard Member

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    Looks great. There are several ways you can build the backdrop. For attachment to the layout, just some plain hardware store L brackets will work. For the main backdrop panels, 1/8 inch hardboard (masonite). I would make the frame for the backdrop cut out of plywood, that way you could form the curve and cut it out with a saber saw, then use it for your template for your second one. Then I would clamp them together and belt sand them until they are roughly equal. Then attach ends to make the frame, add the hardboard, fasten with L brackets... and you are away to the races.

    Oh yes, unless you are a good painter, I would suggest photo backdrops that you can get from faller, or Realistic Backdrop. (forget the name). There might be others.

    www.backdropwarehouse.com
    has some excellent backdrops. You might buy their sample one and use it. It would look great!!

    [ 03 April 2002, 20:45: Message edited by: rsn48 ]
     
  13. Jim_OH

    Jim_OH TrainBoard Member

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    Wow, thanks for the info on installing the backdrop. That will work well as I plan on laying 2" foam board on top of the door so I can actually attach the backdrop and hide the brackets, et all by placing the foam board after attaching the backdrop.

    My son had volunteered to do any scenery painting, etc. He is a fairly accomplished junior artist, Young Arkansas Artist for 1995, so I may not need to purchase commercial backdrops. Heck, he can always try and then we can buy the commercial stuff later.

    He is working on some locomotive sketches right now to hang up in the room where the layout is going to be and to be used as wallpaper on our website. Initial sketches look pretty good, he is taking them from some photos we did at the Buckeye Yard here in Columbus of some NS and CSX equipment that was there.

    Again, I appreciate all this help, it's been informative and supportive....
     
  14. nmtexman

    nmtexman In Memoriam

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    It's looking pretty good. I see you put a lot of thought into the benchwork and layout. I'll be anxious to see the progress!
     
  15. Jim_OH

    Jim_OH TrainBoard Member

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    Actually I'm not one for reinventing wheels...when I came across the website for the Adisport & Codyville Railroad in N Scale, I liked what I saw so I decided to duplicate his work. His website has some excellent pictures and information, definitely a guy to learn from on some of this stuff.

    He had actually designed his with the backdrop down the center, corner to corner, but that was one piece I didn't like and had left it out until the recommendations to place a backdrop were made. After looking at the drawings I decided on a curved backdrop vice a straight one. Long term it will probably change the siding layouts but I thought by curving it I would get three scenes and not two actually breaking up what you saw based on three different viewing positions.
     
  16. Jim_OH

    Jim_OH TrainBoard Member

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    Okay, I've got the benchwork completed and the current layout printed out on 8.5" x 11" paper. This weekend we plan to put paper to board (door).

    My question now is: What is the best way to transfer the layout from the paper to the board? I was considering placing carbon paper under the paper and then placing the center lines using ruler and stylus to transfer it through the paper, carbon paper and to the board. Anyone have other ideas, suggestions on this process?

    Thanks...
     
  17. friscobob

    friscobob Staff Member

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    Jim,
    First, welcome to Trainboard!
    Second, your layout plan looks close to the one I was going to use- hollow-core door with
    a slab of 2" thick blue foam. I was happy with it until the missus told me it took up too much room (it shares space in our bedroom). I think, however, that a door-sized layout is a great start in N scale.

    I would also agree with others about backdrop- in my case, I'm using 1/8" thick Masonite planted in a groove cut in the foam.
    On your layout, this cuts the layout in half, sort of, giving the ioousion that the next town is around the bend & down the track a ways.

    You said you've got a layout extension in the works- may I recommend a wye on the right side of your plan for access by trains from either direction, space permitting?

    One good place to check out ideas is Layout Depot , and it's also a great place to post your layout. I have two versions of my N scale road there- look for Oklahoma & North Eastern, versions 1 and 2, as well as Paris & Mt. Pleasant, under Atlas RTS.

    One other thing- if possible, you may need to put another crossover in the upper right part of your mainline- this will allow the local to run around the train for switching purposes.

    All that aside, I like your layout plan- keep us posted! [​IMG]

    [ 05 April 2002, 22:14: Message edited by: friscobob ]
     
  18. Colonel

    Colonel Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Jim,
    The layout looks great and will enable lots of hours of switching, the only downside is no room for any staging or storing of trains. Obviously space limitations play a major role in this but I 4 track yard maybe desirable to enable staging of trains.

    Good luck with the layout and I look forward to seeing your progress
     
  19. friscobob

    friscobob Staff Member

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    The way I laid out the plan on my layout may seem kinda odd, but I laid out the components, measured where the curves would be (if your plan is to scale, it's easier) and drew the curves out using a yardstick with holes drilled out in certain places. This way, I was able to draw out my curves. I have one hole for the zero point (pivot point), and holes say, 10, 12 and 15 inches out from the zero point. In your case, drill the holes for the radii you're using, with a pencil, pen, or thin felt-tip marker in the hole, and draw your curves out.
    The same yardstick can be used to draw the straight sections. A cheap wooden yardstick will work wonders, and I've found in drawing the lines, the ink from the felt tip pens doesn't harm the foam.

    Again, if you have your drawing to scale, and an idea of where track is going in relation to your plan, you should have it made.

    The lines you draw can now be used to lay out roadbed (another question for another time, I'm sure), and the track on top.

    Let us know how it goes.

    And if anybody has a better suggestion than mine, speak out- my method may not be the best, but it works for me. Besides, this is how we learn. :D

    Highball, y'all!
     
  20. Jim_OH

    Jim_OH TrainBoard Member

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    Well folks the last two weekends have been pretty busy and I haven't gotten the task of transferring the paper layout to board completed. Hopefully this weekend....

    The two planned future additions are for a yard operation which would be off the lower left of the layout. I've been working on that design and will be posting it soon. The second addition is a mountain area off the right side of the current layout design. Both were the reasoning behind the two branch lines along the front of the layout. Until they are added, the longer of the two branch lines will be used as a staging track.

    All of your comments have been appreciated, keep them coming...
     

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