Well umm, this is awkward I have had this screen name forever ( cause no one else had it, on any forums pretty much ). I am in2tech, but I can't answer your question as I have no clue. Maybe I should have chosen the screen name, in2techbutnotreallyatech, or in2techonlyforsimplethings, or in2techbutnotonebutknewoneonce, you get the point. Sorry I could not help you, but I do know there are some actual tech people here that will. BTW, it's really hard to come up with those screen names I just posted and if you aren't the one posting them, not sure you will figure them out, as I just typed them and now can't understand a one of them when actually trying to read them back Good luck! Once again sorry!
No worries, I'm a bit out of my depth with this project, but thus far it is turning out to be "paint by the numbers" sort of wiring project. I did get some information that the resistor was to be used if signaling were to be installed, so as to not burn the LED's in such signals. Next challenge is to get the sensors installed, pretty straight forward, and then see about adjusting the motion of the train (this remains to be seen).
Okay gang stupid question yes I know. Already know what I have for design idea but where i need some help is i don't have room for a helix or Nolix or whatever you want to call them. Layout will be multi level. 1 staging. 2 city outskirts edge of town. 3 mountains trestles, river, branch into hidden incline/decline. Now i'll be the first to say i'm getting lazy now in my building of this layout i will be using the woodland scenics 2% incline/decline to go from one level to the other this will be double track on a 5" wide area with the tracks at the outer edges of the incline/decline. One track will be up, the other down basically a long outer 28" inside rail would be 26" at a minimum radius pair of hidden loops with access panels to get to any part of these ramps. Included safety sections to prevent dropping to the floor. So am i asking to much as i'll be running intermodal, auto racks, 6 axle unit's, 26" radius would be my minimum for these units'just wondering if 1" between tracks will be enough clearance for long cars 30" radius would really be pushing the envelope. My layout room is 7' X 11" not much but a layout is possible tested a dry run. Basically needing to know if the 5" wide track surface will be enough for clearance purposes in the corners.
Finally finished the Micro Layout, "Hart's Mill Crossing," and it quickly went into production as part of an exhibit at a coin show.
Finished, yes finished, Hart's Mill Crossing and got to run it for three days at a coin show exhibition, promoting the El Paso Transportation and Railroad History Museum. This Bachmann American Type ran for 16 hours and held up remarkably well.
All the small layouts look good. Hart's Crossing can't be finished. I expect you'll think of a new structure or scene with people to add here and there. No layout for me, too busy with work these days, but I keep plotting the tiny starter practice Narrow Gauge layout.
Lookin' forward to your efforts, TGB. Aside from a few tweeks, I hope to keep Harte's Mill as a finished project. Next: a John Bull micro layout.
I wanted to revive this discussion about simpler toy train set type layouts. As always, don't get me wrong I also like the medium to massive and epic layouts. I'm just pondering what I personally can realistically create myself. I think I often mention that I have always wanted to build a particular Model Railroader Magazine layout from 1974. It's just a plan that has stuck with me all my life. But I am now exploring having a layout that is almost completely home made, and the reality of how long it takes to build even one item for this kind of layout makes it pretty clear that it's going to be some time before my layout will look "finished." So after a lot of soul searching, I am rebuilding a layout I had as a kind. I found an example of it in HO scale on Thor's Train site: http://www.thortrains.net/trackplan/HOmini0.html (ooops had the wrong link. I'm using a beat up Keyboard and sometimes it doesn't notice my keys.) Thor passed away not long ago. I was fortunate to chat with him about both model railroading and collecting military miniatures, err, toy soldiers. Such a truly nice gentleman. I hope his train site doesn't go away, as it is one of the oldest train sites on the internet. I like this roundy roundy classic. For those of us who have busy careers that epic layout may not be anywhere in the near future. For me anyway, I just want to get some trains running and soon!
The layout in your post above is found on Thor's site at: http://www.thortrains.net/trackplan/HOmini0.html When I was first getting started, I spent a lot of time looking at the track plans on Thor's site. It's great that you had a chance to chat with him! - Jeff
Hi BNSF FAN, Was browsing through the forum and came across your post. Exactly my thought process as of now! I don't have the time to set up an elaborate layout; I am already a bit bored of seeing all those fancy layouts. I just want to play, running those trains. I really would be interested in your 4ft x 8ft track plan, if you can share it. And Kato Unitrack is indeed the easy way to go as I have realized. It's just so easy to work with it. Thanks EsK
I have a thread about my build progress so far on the JPT Sub in the N scale section. There is the original basic track plan there but I have added some additional trackage since it was posted. I will try and get it updated and post a new one there. Check it out and hopefully you will like it. I can tell you it's been fun so far.
Having read your post, I had to find and look over your thread on the N scale forum. You've got a nice layout under way. The discussion about roundy-rounds and the attraction of being able to run trains quickly is very interesting. I'm considering incorporating a temporary roundy-round (supported mostly on plastic train-set trestle bents) into my new (as yet unbuilt) layout, part of which would later be incorporated into the permanent point-to-point main line with permanent scenery and trestle work as the layout progresses.
I'm still obsessing over small layouts. It's somewhat pathetic that I have not built a layout yet. Although I can say I have been building models, so it's not like I am just being a complete slacker. After all, you gotta have a fleet of cars if you are gonna have a layout. In my case it's about 6 cars and 1 loco thus far. Anyway, I figured I'd add my current baseboard plan onto this old discussion. Still going with a 2 switch layout for roundy roundy fun. I am playing with doing my box frame inside the upper layer. It is marked in red.
I have found that making a pair of 180 degree turn back curves on a pair of sections (30x60 inches or 30x48 inches) is handy. Then you can make any length sections to fit between them and use a 1x6 cut to the same length as a staging yard in the back. If you get real excited you can make two sections the same length that you sandwich between the turn back curves. That gives you lots of options. Put to the two ends together to make a plain loop. Put one section and the 1x filler in to make a big oval with one scene. Put two sections in and make a oval with two scenes. Only use one turnback and two sections to make a C shaped point to point.
Traingeekboy: Generally track spacing is center to center. In HO straight track is on 2 inch centers. On curves that are below 30" it helps to widen the spacing on curves to 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 in centers. Especially if you are running long cars (auto racks, full length passenger cars, 89 ft piggy back cars). If you find it hard to measure to centers, then measure between the same spots on both tracks (inside end of the ties to inside end of the ties, inside rail to inside rail, outside rail to out side rail, etc.)
I am running short locos and cars. My gas engine is a 4 wheel loco as is the steam engine I am now bashing. All my train cars are under 40' long and have truck mounted couplers. The track line is for the center of the track which is 30". This is a narrow gauge layout with 1/55 scale models. Most everything on the layout will be scratch built even down to telegraph poles.
I am only using lumber I have on hand, most of which is found left over scraps. So the width of the surface planks was predetermined. I had to figure out what lengths to cut and make it as a kind of puzzle. Ad it is, I had two long lengths of plywood that are as I recall about 6.5 inches wide. When I cut them there myabe just a few inches left of each piece. I wouldn't normally plan such a simple layout on the computer if I was using a solid piece of plywood, but I am trying to make a layout without spending a lot of money.
