am going to try this again with a better link to the lay out that I am working on or trying to get started on. This is my first layout, and have been told that this in not for a beginner; well I am one that does not take NO for an answer. I have used RTS 5.0 to print out the track template for this and have it layed out on the bench and 50% of the track layed out on top of it to get an idea of how it will work. I am still needing about 50% of the turnouts as well as the bridges. would like to run DDC at a later date with this with a freight and passenger line, and would like to wire it DDC compatable from the start. All I can tell from the picture is that it has grades in it and not sure of the % and where to start the grade out at. My guess and just guessing it is somewhere from 3-4%. do I need to lay down risers as in the woodland scenic video or what other options do I have. the next question that I have on this layout is it possible to make a change in it to have a second level added on to put my town. Know it sound stupid or crazy but I bought all the buildings and industries I liked before I had a track plan. Industries, Hardwood furniture company 3-mile island power plant. state power substation Town. police station 6 suburban houses Movie theater Jerry riggs service station all I am missing is a passenger/freight station. all town kits are assembles and waiting for tracklayout. sorry for all the questions.. but have not visited alot of LHS and have gotten 90% of my trackage and structures from e-bay.. I also appologize about my previous post as I am still learning how to use the forums.... Thanks Cowboy_1 AKA stan
If you have a "good" model railroad store near by, take this plan to them. I suspect this plan calls for Atlas....thingmajigs (just blanked out on what they are called...lol). As a matter of fact, being even lazier, email Atlas and send this plan along and ask what they recommend, I am certain you should get a decent reply. I am guessing 4 percent grade. Why don't you tell me the space you have and I will snoop around and see if I can find a plan that will be good (my definition of good means operationally interesting) for that area. You of course may disagree with me and not use it... fair enough.
Great minds think alike. After I was turned down by the planning comishion and the bank for the space for a 12 x 12 size layout I have been looking at this layout. If you go to the train store you can get step by step directions for this layout. It is in the Atlas book seven step by step HO railroads. It starts on page number 30. It also shows how to wire it for DCC and DC with all of the Atlas switch blocks. I have been toying with the idea to add the small swithing layout( HO-26) to the side of this one so it would have a better yard and branch line. The problem with that idea is that the bench work would be 6 to 7 feet wide and that would make reaching into the middle areas pretty hard. Can any one tell me if that would be to far to reach and work on a layout that wide? Any other changes that would make this a better plan? The reason I have been looking at this one is I have seen this one at the train store. They picked this one to do for a store display. I was also able to play with a DCC system on the display layout. Dru.
Welcome to Train Board Cowboy. I just tore down my N layout before Christmas. It was 6' X 8'. That 3 foot reach was really tough to reach and do a good job on track layout.. I like your layout plan but it sure is busy.
Cowboy, Welcome to the spread son!!! One thing I have found, is that it usually pays to do a mock up of the track work and any unusual scenery features to see if it's going to work! I prefer to do a full size mock up so I don't have to guess. I noticed a couple of areas on the plan that might give you some heartburn. You say you are laying some track out on the bench full size, that's good! I think I would go ahead and buy the other 50% of the switches you need because even if you don't build this plan you will need switches. For the mock up I would use cardboard for the elevated areas as it's fairly cheap, (in some cases free!) and if you mess up, big deal, start over! You may want to use styrofoam blocks to support the cardboard. You can use double sided tape or shirt pins to hold the track in place. What you are trying to do is to see if the transition from the level areas to the elevated areas is as smooth as possable. Also you want to see if there is enough clearance side to side and in the curves for passenger cars and such. 2slim Oh, BTW, I've got a shed full of HO & N Scale buildings, locos, freight and passenger cars, but no layout, (yet), so, no you're not stupid!!
oppps forgot to say that this is being done in N scale and the space that I have avaliable is 4X7'. it will be going up against 2 walls . but I have added rollers to the legs of the benchwork so I can roll it away from the wall and out int o the middle of the office to work on the back side. sure send any ideas of a new layout my way. am always open to suggestions, one reason I liked this lay out is that it had no reverse loops, ( something I DONT want on my layout. Personal reasons)... Cowboy_1
Cowboy, you've picked a good one. This is a slightly modified version of the infamous HO Granite Gorge and Northern done in N Scale per Mike & Eileen's website (http://www.naisp.net/users/mfischer/m_train2.htm). My best suggestions would be to get a copy of the HO Book that thoroughly discusses this track plan and go from there. Mike made some nice changes in adapting it to N Scale that will make for more interesting operation. Hard to run long trains on this one, but for max railroading in a reasonable area, this one is a good plan to go with. It's just a shame that the benchwork cutouts aren't already done for you as in the HO version.
I always liked the Granite Gorge and Northern, Stan. Very cool layout. I think it would be easier to set up the track on the plywood, mark the track outline, then use a sabre saw to cut out around the track to make your grades. The Atlas book "Seven Step by Step HO Railroads" will help with the cutouts. You won't have to build the elaborate risers they illustrate, just cut it up, and prop it up to your chosen height. Be sure to leave enough clearance for husky double stacks! If you are going to go DCC, I would do it right away, as it doesn't cost much more than two good power packs, and all those selectors and wire. Remember too, for future layouts, reverse loops are sheer joy with DCC. Super easy to wire, then it's all automatic! First time I saw my train complete a reverse loop by itself, with no input from me...It looked like magic! You're going to love it!
I would second Pete's comment on reversing loops, not the big monster they used to be. DCC has slain the dragon. With a little more money you can get the reversing loops to throw the turnout automatically as well as reverse the current for you so you can have continuous running. With a 4 by 7, I would be looking at a "water wings" bench style. If you have (or can browse at your local store) Track Planning For Realistic Operation (third edition) by John Armstrong, on page 90, figure 7-8, "C" illustrates the "familiar waterwings". In that illustration the water wing looks to narrow, of course you can build it wider. I would build it around 30 inches wide myself in the narrow section. The visual of the waterwings, especially if you keep the "rounded look" to it, will give your layout a more "contemporary" look to it than just a large rectangle table top structure. When you look at the illustration in Armstong's book, remember those grids are not one foot square grids, but his definition of "Squares." I will still snoop. Also have you seen the 4 by 8 plan in this years Model Railroad Planning 2002 on page 25, called the Houston's Port Termina Railraod in N scale by Byron Henderson. Many have liked that plan and it is easily modifiable to suit other needs and your size. You would have a fun time building and operating his layout.
would like to do a 4x8 but that is not possible. still need to get into a closet on the one wall sigh.. if the closet wasnt there.. well have thought about cleaning it out and using it for a helix and or a staging area, but dont think my uncle would let me do that... would like to run long trains but not manditory.. of the cars that I have well they are a mix of things that I have seen out on the road as a truck driver, (having been to all 48 states at 7 times to canada) mainly they are all box cars, as for the loco, what I have now is a UP gp20.. I am looking to get possibly a UP 90 or a c44-9w not sure yet. as far as the passenger line, not sure what I am wanting on that yet, but am sure it will be a mixed lot as well... ( hey this is my RR, and it would be my personal passenger line... ) not sure what else to add to this right now, but I will look for the HO book that this plan came out of and see if I really want to do this or scrap it and try something else... thanks ..... Cowboy_1
