Sheldon: Switchback sidings are sometimes "interesting" or "enjoyably challenging" when we work them the first few times; but, for some of us, they turn frustrating and irritating relatively quickly--work instead of fun. Unless you are strongly set on the puzzle aspect, you might enjoy operating your layout more--and longer--if you make the top industry siding come off of the main loop with a left hand turnout positioned close to the top turnout for the run-around. Adjust the tracks within the industry to eliminate the switchback there, as well. With the change suggested above, operations with 2 trains running in opposite directions, as described by Mark S, will be possible...with a minor limitation: trains running clockwise serve the relocated industry at the top of the layout, and trains running counter-clockwise serve the industries at the bottom of the layout (trailing point turnouts in both cases). In the 2-train scenario, no run-around will be available unless one of the trains stops on the main at the other end of the layout to permit the 2nd train to perform the run-around actions. If the layout can be stretched enough in any direction to permit a 2nd passing siding (at the other end of the layout? inside or outside of the main along either long side of the layout? as a third track at the right end of the oval?), then it would be possible to park Train A in the 2nd siding while Train B worked industries using the run-around. The 2nd passing siding could also be used as an interchange track. Cars picked up by Train A at one industry get left at the interchange to be picked up by Train B and delivered to a different industry. If the industries at the bottom had at least one industry served only by Train A and at least one served only by Train B, and the industries at the top of the layout also had at least one industry served by Train A and one served by Train B, then the run-around action would be necessary for both trains (providing interesting action without creating a potentially frustrating switchback puzzle). Train A: 1. Originates at Runaround track; 2. loops x times and works the trailing point industry; 3. loops x times and picks up any interchange cars at the interchange (parked behind the caboose of Train B which is parked on the Passing Siding 2); 4. loops x times and works the facing point industry using the run-around; 5. loops x times and works any other trailing point industry(s) on the layout; 6. loops x times and parks on main next to Passing Siding 2. Train B: Moves from Passing Siding 2 to park on Run-around track. Train A: 7. Loops x times and drops any cars off at interchange track (Passing Siding 2); 8. loops x times and backs into Passing Siding 2 (so all interchange cars are behind Train A caboose). Train B: Runs through the same sequence of movements, but is looping in the opposite direction. Train A moves from Passing Siding 2 to park on the Run-around track so that Train B can complete its setout movement at the interchange track. Train B completes its moves and the trains are set to run through the series again. It would be possible to increase the variety of cars being moved by adding a trailing point stub ended interchange track for Train A and a 2nd trailing point stub ended interchange track for Train B. If both were long enough to hold 5 cars, then 10 cars could be rotated onto the layout and 10 cars off the layout for each cycle of running both Train A and Train B. The 10 cars could be exchanged by 0-5-0 between each cycle to vary which cars are on the layout even more.
I like most of those plans. They all have the basics covered. My biggest concern is the 24x48. Are you really that cramped for space? I bet for the same money as a piece of plywood and some stringers of 1x2 pine, you could just buy a door panel. Even a narrow one like 30"x80" will give you much more layout. I was at Home Depot the other day and decided to price out a hollow core door. It was only 20.00$ I have had 2'x4' layouts. They are cute, but there are problems that arise from cramping your track too much. Your simple plans expanded onto a door panel would really look nice.
No, I want mainly to have a small layout so that I can concentrate on the scenery. I don't want to just "throw some scenery down". I want to super detail it, and I feel that I need to keep myself limited to a small size so I get a sense of acomplishment first. I see already how I can turn this layout 90 degrees and make it a reversing loop for a long shelf layout later. ppuin; Great suggestions, switching puzzles aren't something I'm "into". I perfer practical operations. I will work on it a bit more. My biggest thing is, I'm trying to keep from buying more track that what I have. I currently have: 2 #6 left turnouts 1 #6 right turnout 1 #4 Right 1 #4 left 1 15degree L crossing various curves and straights
options Here is the final track plan I've settled down with. Now, I'm already planning for future trackage (a #4 right turnout at the bottom to the right just before the curve). Should I leave that turnout out and install it when I start the expansion? Or should I put it in now and just hide it somehow?
Sheldon: Put it in and set a triangular shaped industry/building beside it and a mirror square to the track to make the track appear to continue on to the right. Or hide a mirror under a highway overpass. When you eventually put in the expansion the siding by the industry or track under the overpass becomes a mainline to more layout to the right. If you don't want to put a building there, then you could pretend there is a building in front of the track with its back wall facing the siding (sort of like the fascia board was the foundation for the wall of the un-modeled building). Model details in the area on the other side of the siding from the (imagined) building to suggest there really is a building there. Or let the siding serve as a single track interchange. Spot any kind of car there for interchange with some other RR. Even if you currently think you'll only expand to the right, you could put other sidings outside your loop to serve as industrial sidings, interchanges, or future expansion in other directions, just to keep lots of options open.
Sheldon, Just a quick question. In comparing your 12/14 layout and the 12/20 one I see you reconfigured the way the run-around track is laid out. You eliminated the switchback siding which is good. I don't understand why you made the second change. It is an oval, I know, so could seem boring, but keeps you from putting any of the mainline on the curved portion of a turnout which is a good practice to follow as far as you can. (You can't do that for the future connection track along the front.) I would agree with Dave H. and put in the turnout up front for the future expansion. I'd run a piece of straight track to the edge of the board from it and use it for an industry, or better yet, a short interchange track. More funa nd expansion made easy.
Mark Smith, It was a plain 'ol oval. That was the reason. However, you make a very good point, and I saw you made that point in another thread in the layout discussion forum earlier today. So I sat down just a couple minutes ago and looked it over and came up with the following. Again, it's just another plain 'ol oval, but hopefully I can disguise it a bit with some creative scenery. Although, I am very pleased with how close I got the run-around track to sit to the other - it looks more like a double main over there now. (nothing like seeing two trains going in opposite directions just a gnats arse away from touching) Also, I would appreciate opinions on my mini yard - should I get rid of those 15degree curve pieces? I put those in to get it away from the main a bit and bring it out into the middle more.
Sheldon: I would avoid using a # 4 Unitrack turnout on the mainline especially right before the curve. Use a # 6 turnout if you can. I only use # 4 Unitrack turnouts within a yard and not leading from the mainline to the yard. Stay cool and run steam....
Here is a link to an old 2x4 layout I had. I ended up stopping work because the 2x4 size ended up being limiting for both scenery and trackwork. I got the scenery mostly done in about 2 weeks time. It was loads of fun though. in the link below you'll see how I used to hang it on a wall like a painting when not in use. http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1057676584042562162UgDHTI You can probably view all the layout pics from this link. It may give you some track plan ideas. It has the following design features: 2 track yard with one engine track. 2 inner industrial spurs with 1 switch back spur. (pain in the @$$ to switch.) 1 straight interchange/ staging track for a train to park in. 1 long curved spur, was going to put an industry or pass. station on the curve and a grain elevator on the very end of it for that small town look.
Sheldon: If you use a left hand turnout as the turnout to the yard and put it on the inside track of the passing track just before it connects to the main on the upper side of the layout, you could use the passing track as a lead for your yard and as an arrival/departure track, too. The yard tracks would run diagonally from upper right to lower left. It would also be possible to make this arrangement by moving the right turnout from the main to a spot just around the passing siding curve (so the straight part is parallel with the back wall and the curve connects to the curve of the turnout that comes off the main onto the passing siding. If both the turnouts (the mainline to passing siding T/O and the passing siding to yard T/O) are #4s or both are #6s (#6s are preferable!), then you shouldn't have too much trouble connecting everything else.
By reducing the radius of the curve on the LHS to that of the curve of your inner track on the RHS I think you can at least put a wiggle in, as the attached tries to show. I agree that the oval shape isn't pretty. Probably means buying more track, doesn't it? The 'S' curve you've created on the lower LH siding would not work well. I'd go back to something straighter. The real challenge is putting anything with real angles or wiggles on a two foot wide board. The minimum radius curves just don't let you do much with that little width. I don't think I'd put the extra curves in the yard track. Probably won't make much difference but I don't think they add anything to the design or operation. Keep pluggin'.
We must definately be on the same wavelength right now. I just removed that wiggle in the siding and made it straight as your plan shows. I left the 15 degree curve up top right after the turnout off the main but took the ones out in the yard tracks. Otherwise they would have been crammed up against the inner run-around. I've used up all my 9.75"R curves and I think the straight oval will be fine at this point since I think I may be moving on to the expansion sooner than I thought. thanks for the input!
Anyone have input on preparing to glue Unitrack? Powersteamguy/ ATSF_Arizona; Do you outline the track with a sharpie and the take it all up? Or do you just slightly lift the Unitrack and squirt a little dab of the hot glue in underneath it?
I glue the Unitrack at the base adjacent to the foam at the four corners. I keep the track in position. Stay cool and run steam.....
Perfect! I'll be getting started probably Tuesday now. Gotta get the boys all fired up today for tomorrow morning!
Well, I got to looking at it and thought what the heck, let's do it right now before we go for X-mas eve dinner... It done! took all but 20 minutes and trains are running fine on all the joints.
Hello again folks! I came up with yet another slight variation to my plan and thought I'd ask some of you professionals the pros and cons you all see to this. (or usefulness) Let me know what you all think! Thanks!
