I think they look very nice; I might have to look at an Espee version. I would probably just weather it and no worry about the lighter handrails. Painting the handrails might be more trouble than it is worth.
Rob, as anyone at Atlas can attest, I order parts yearly. This was the first time I contacted Walthers for parts and they came across more knowlagable and were able to give me an inventory of parts available instantly indead of having to wait for someone to try and find the parts. The parts were exactally what I wanted (I have had problems with Atlas in this regard in the past). They were shipped fast as well.
Hopefully a decoder will be developed for these soon! I have the two NS units from the first batch from this past fall, but can't run them regularly on my layout until I get them DCC equipped.
I can tell you from my experience with LL 38's I bought a few years back... good runners up until I hardwired decoders in them - then they ran abysmally! :thumbs_down: :thumbs_down: 3 for 3, all on the bad side! Not sure why, and if it would still be the same today... </plink plink>
A pre-wired decoder would be a pretty easy install. It looks like all you would have to do is take the contact leafs off the motor to isolate it. Maybe the decoder could include wire and couplings to make it a solderless procedure. It may not be as DCC friendly as an Atlas, but it would still be relitivly easy if no soldering was required. There seems to be a hole under the lightboard for just this type of instalation.
That sounds similar to the GP60 from Life-Like. The rear of the lightboard has a little space between it and the rear worm gear. Not quite big enough for a decoder, but some patience and a dremel... I've done two hardwired GP60 installs like that. And destroyed one decoder with each one, through pinching wires or shorting to chassis. Not my favourite weekend. For the money, I still like Atlas decoder installs (unscrew frame, replace light board, screw frame back together), and love Kato decoder installs (push light board backwards, bend brass contacts and apply kapton tape, push decoder board in and forwards). No power tools required. But if it looks pretty and runs like a dream (and is prototypical, and I ever decide that I really need another engine and that the 10-12 I have aren't enough, and ...) then maybe I'll buy another one. Decoders are getting smaller, right?
Those Mopac GPs look nice! As for the handrails not matching the rest of the paint, it appears to be the same situation with the fans. Kinda reminiscent of Kato and the D&H RS3s. The individual cast parts were mokded in color, and if they weren't right.....oh well!
Just put them on the Donner pass clearing snow and the lighter hand rails will just look like snow weathering... haha Hey! That's my plan anyway. (not that I'm that much of a detail fanatic)
Today while packing away the cases for the Geeps (yes looks like they will be out on the layout for a while) I noticed they came with plows and winterization hatches so I decided to add some BLMA hoses and the plow and hatch, I also painted the handrails. Here is a before and after shot. I'm really impressed with this model and in my opinion these are the best models LifeLike have produced.
Cool to know! [FONT=""Trebuchet MS""]:thumbs_up: Options from the manufacture? Wow Life Like ... err... Walthers has made some serious changes. It's good to know that these have some versitility based on your use. Or prototype depending on how one views such things. [/FONT]
I had George order me two before I knew Atlas was doing the same model. No loss as I will paint mine up in the darker B&M final paint scheme and run em non detailes for the N-Trak meets as the public (and most modelers) don't know the 38-2's are suposed to have a sight glass. The Atlas ones will be the Bicentennial and as delivered blue and get the full treatment. If these run as good as my LL GP20's then I'll be happy. Jim
I once owned a LL SD7 and a GP20. Both locos ran great. I was really impressed with the SD7. I sold these on Ebay because they were not DCC ready.....I know....I am a sissy non soldering man
Colonel: any chance of a pic with the shell off, so we can see the frame? Also, what does the light-pipe / lens on the rear headlight look like from the inside? I'm expecting the best way to decoder these is (as I think I posted earlier) mill the rear end gap until something fits, pinch some wires, and hope for the best
colonel i thing the mp left the winter hatches off the units, i don't remember ever seeing any on them before.
well the shell was very tight to remove and required quite a bit of force. I was surprised to see a circuit board for the lighting so I'm thinking these would not be too difficult for dcc conversion. I'll take one for Gary to look at tomorrow and maybe he can answer. Here are a couple of pics sorry but the focus isnt great
