LIGHTED GOOSENECK WAREHOUSE LIGHT IN Z ????

Zscaleplanet Sep 17, 2021

  1. tjdreams

    tjdreams TrainBoard Member

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    I have bent small Brass tubing before but not quite that small.
    Bending tubing that small, to a tight radius you will want to use a tubing bender with a die that the tube wraps around to keep it from deforming and bulging out on the sides at the bend, similar to that used in bending brake tubing for on a car.

    You can try making one by milling a round grove (use a ball end mill) that is the same diameter as your 304 tubing and at least 1/2 the tubing diameter deep around a SS rod that is the diameter of the bend you want.

    Also SS will work harden as you bend it. So you will want to make the bends in one smooth continues operation. Stopping and starting will likely cause it to split or brake at the bend.

    David
     
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  2. Zscaleplanet

    Zscaleplanet TrainBoard Supporter

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    Scott,
    Yeahhhh, that is going to be part of the challenge here…:(

    David,
    I know exactly what you’re referring to regards to a tubing bender holding the radius. This stuff is hypodermic material so I am questioning how flexible it’s really going to be. Collapsing may not be a problem as much as cracking or breaking in two.

    If the gooseneck cannot be achieved I may just go for a straight tube appearance with the shade hanging on the end. There were some warehouse lights back in the day they were of this nature. But the gooseneck would be the icing on the cake especially in Z-scale.
     
  3. mdvholland

    mdvholland TrainBoard Member

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    https://ngineering.com/tubing_bending.htm
     
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  4. kimvellore

    kimvellore TrainBoard Member

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  5. Zscaleplanet

    Zscaleplanet TrainBoard Supporter

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    EXCELLENT INFO !!! Thanks!!
    This is good info for anybody working with the scale to add to their knowledge base.

    All the more reason why I enjoy posting questions to the “team” on this forum.
     
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  6. Zscaleplanet

    Zscaleplanet TrainBoard Supporter

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    Just curious if you had any experience with this particular tool??? How well did it work?

    I’m pretty sure I saw it on the shelf at Hobby Lobby. Fire Mountain Beads also has it listed on their website for $12. And I just placed my order the other day for the light hoods for this project from them……:(:(
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2021
  7. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    Solderable Brass EDM Tube that you can feed the positive wire from prewired 0402 LED's through up to about a 3" length, after that the wire stops pushing through:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/181415056936?hash=item2a3d2e1628:g:vssAAOxyP4dTeYuS

    Sterling Silver 3mm Smooth Round Plain Bead Cap that can be soldered to brass EDM tube:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/322727463324?hash=item4b240e499c:g:2bQAAOSwRLZT0ltm

    Prewired 0402 Warm White LED's with wire thin enough to slide one conductor through the hole on an 0.9mm OD single hole brass EDM tube up to 3" before resistance makes feeding the wire too difficult:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/253838108092?hash=item3b19ee25bc:g:ewkAAOSwylhbhoQc

    Wire forming pegboard to bend crookneck and gooseneck lamps once one of the LED wires has been fed through the straight EDM tube.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/362966042262?epid=2254396783&hash=item5482764696:g:rdgAAOSwHb9ejjzc
     
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  8. Zscaleplanet

    Zscaleplanet TrainBoard Supporter

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    OK, Minor hiccup in this project. The .018 hypodermic tubing arrived. O.D. dimensionally is perfect for Z-scale to represent exterior lighting conduit pipe. However the ID will not allow for two wires to fit through.
    D5FDB02B-FF71-49B5-AE06-A84FF33E0E4F.jpeg

    F24613FF-116D-4072-ADC4-F072A44ECA00.jpeg

    ((( I included the Z LED in the pic for the fun of it. )))

    I thought I was pretty sure of my dimensions when measuring and when ordering. However it’s such a small dimension to be working, and we’re talking a nanometer here, which will screw you up.

    I think I’m going to take Robert Ray’s recommendation and pursue EDM tubing.

    Now one comment I would make though, is that the hypodermic tubing did bend quite well and seemed to hold its outer diameter and not crush. Although it would become brittle if one pushed the issue radius too far.

    I will be ordering some EDM tube and will report back once it arrives.
     
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  9. husafreak

    husafreak TrainBoard Member

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    Is it because the hypodermic tubing won’t carry current or because you cannot solder to it that it cannot be used with one wire inside?
     
  10. Zscaleplanet

    Zscaleplanet TrainBoard Supporter

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    I haven’t tried it but I think the hypodermic tubing would accept a single wire being soldered to it.

    However the question is where to solder that wire so it’s not visible. Since the light needs to slip up underneath the hood, it gets complicated as to where to put that wire.

    I was thinking about just simply running a piece of fiber-optic through the tube but I’m not convinced the fiber optics put out enough light. Maybe I’m wrong and should experiment.
     
  11. shamoo737

    shamoo737 Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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  12. shamoo737

    shamoo737 Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Kind of fuzzy, but it’s a gooseneck
     
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  13. Zscaleplanet

    Zscaleplanet TrainBoard Supporter

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    Indeed it’s a nice gooseneck and that’s quite the scene it’s shedding it’s light on there in front Smith’s bar. Appears the night crowd is just starting to shuffle in. Kind of expect to hear the “Sultans of Swing” playing…..
     
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  14. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    So what I do is cut the tube to length before bending, sand the ends with 600 grit, solder a bump on one end of the tube, fish my LED positive wire through, cut the negative wire 1mm from the LED, and solder that 1mm end to the solder bump very quickly so it don't unsolder from the LED.

    Next I solder a solder bump to the silver bead cap right next to the hole, slide it over the tube, and heat that solder bump so it melts onto the tube solder bump.

    Now I can bend the gooseneck as desired with my pegboard jig. After it is bent, I like to solder a leg of a 4.7K resistor to the bottom of the tube, fill the inside of the lampshade with clear parts or canopy cement, then paint.

    Don't use a 470 ohm, or even a 1K ohm, use 4.7K ohms for a more realistic light intensity, and the life of you LED will be forever. 470 ohm is way too bright and will burn out in a year or so, 1K is also too bright and your LED will last a bit longer, but 4.7K is realistic and don't wash out photos. The current is limited to about 2 milliamps, just enough to turn on the LED, and maximizes it's lifetime.

    Over the decades, I have wasted many hours fighting fiber optics, and with the new micro sized electronics, I have relegated fiber optics to very short uses like locomotive marker lighting and miniature electronic control panel lighting with 0402 LED's on the other side.
     
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  15. SJ Z-man

    SJ Z-man TrainBoard Member

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    If you do go the plastic fiber optic:
    Don’t use CA ! It ‘crazes’ (fractures) thus losing light.
    Drill a hole in the dome end of a T1 (1mm) or 2 or 3 in a T3 (3mm) LED to insert the fiber optic, then use RTV (a.k.a. Silicone) adhesive. They’ll be bright.
    Want more than the fiber wide light at the lamp end? Use a low temperature soldering iron two melt the tip for larger area (tested for the low temperature just enough to melt it first on a practice piece of fiber optic). Or, you can rough up (sand/file) the end of the fiber. Canopy glue works well too.
     
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