I know next to zero when it comes to troubleshooting DCC. I am certainly a noob. I have a small DCC wired layout, using all Walthers DCC ready turnouts, and using an older Digitraxx Genesis command station. There are several turnouts (not all, maybe about half) that the locos stall on. Then I give them a little nudge, and they pick up power again. On some turnouts, they are fine when the turnout is aligned in one direction, but not when aligned in the other direction. I tried one trick I read, but putting clear nail polish on the frog, in case the wheels were making contact with both routes and shorting, but that did not do the trick. I have cleaned the track with a bright boy as well. What is going on here. Do I need to get a "juicer?" I will see if I can upload a video showing the issue.
Is it just this loco only? Does it do it if you turn your loco around facing the other direction? Could be crud on the wheels, wheel set out of gauge( too narrow maybe) among other things like uneven track or whatever. It only stalled when the first truck hit the guard rail section( not the right term but look where it stalls as the lead truck gets to that spot). It doesn't happen when the trailing truck goes over the same section. Good Luck. Others may be more helpful.
I get much the same at times. i think it depends on the loco's wheelbase, because they don't all do it. Looking forward to reading a solution! Your layout looks beautiful, by the way. Mike
It does do it in both directions (just checked) and does it as well with other locos, though not quite as bad. Is it possible that once the first truck has cleared, it is now getting full power from track again, so where the rear truck is is irrelevant? I just really think it's an issue with the turnouts, but don't know how to fix it if it is. How difficult would it be to change the wheelbase if it is the combo of the turnout and the wheelbase? Thanks for the compliment on the layout, more pics here.
The Nail Polish trick usually works when the locos or some cars with metal wheels bridge the rails of both polarities on the frogs of Insulfrog switches. You seem to have a loss of power when the loco is on the straight route through the switch. I would suspect some dirty wheels or some crud where the power pickups contact the wheels. Another possibility is that the point is not tight enough against the stock rail to allow power to flow to the point and lead rail. There could also be some acumulation of dirt or dust between the point and stockrail. Clean between them with a brass or plastic brush in a dremmel tool or a thin screwdriver with a rag and track cleaner of your choice (not goo gone). You could also solder a thin strand of wire between the stockrail and lead rail to keep them alive if you get poor contact.
Thanks ret, I will try that. It is a very dusty layout, so that could be it. The loco is practically brand new, so I think I can rule out the gunked wheels issue. Thanks for the tips!
That's what I was thinking! I thought the Walthers "DCC Ready" turnouts don't have that issue. If that is the case, how do I confirm, and how do I correct? Thanks guys!
Dead frog. Our club has it and all GP9, F7, type wheel bases will stall. One solution is to run multiple lashups so the other engines push the rest through the dead spot. (Not too practical, I know.) Also, I have had one truck on the engine have intermittent pickup. If both trucks are not picking up current from the track then the two axle truck will just fit on the dead frog and the engine will stop regardless of wheelbase length. You can hot wire the frog with a DPDT switch or use Tortoise type (or similar) turnout motors that will hot wire the frog. Run untypically faster and coast through the dead spot. Another bad idea, I know.
That's unfortunate. Doesn't sound like a cheap or easy fix. You would think in this day and age, it would no longer be an issue.
Since you are using Caboose ground throws you could use the throw that has contacts to power the frogs. But seeing your nice video my bet is still dirt in the points. I have the same thing with my layout and the layouts at my club.
Tell you the truth, I don't think it would be a big deal if you plan for it. It would have been easy enough to do when we laid the track, but after ballasting and scenery everywhere it does seem large. Here is Wolfgang Dudler's solution. This is a good website to bookmark, IMHO.
So it seems like the best thing to do at this point is get some track cleaner, and clean well between the point and stock rail? I will get some cleaner this weekend. What is the deal with "frog juicers?" Are those just intended to make non DCC friendly turnouts DCC friendly? Or do they do something to also help DCC friendly turnouts? Would they help me, and my Walthers DCC Friendly turnouts? Thanks again. Love this community.
I have measured the voltage on my clubs Digitrax powered HO layout anywhere from 12.5 to 14 volts and the N layout at anywhere from 10 to 12 volts as measured with a RRamp meter.
I MAY have figured it out. I painted all the track to weather it, and it quite possible that the paint on the stock rail in particular, and possibly the point rail, is preventing good electrical contact. I will have to scrape some off to try it. I came to this conclusion when I was soldering some rail connections where I was not getting good electrical continuity, and after soldering was still having poor connection. That's when I realized I was soldering to painted track. Scraped off paint, re-soldered, then great connection.
