LokSound 58721

Trashman Apr 18, 2021

  1. Trashman

    Trashman TrainBoard Member

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    Good morning, has anyone taken the time to study the new N scale board by LokSound.
    Are you able to solder to the set of solder pads on the board? Which is positive and negative for the led wires?

    Any information would be helpful.

    peace be with you,

    Arthur

    1AC37316-736C-4F51-9F16-C6E1F7407BF5.jpeg
     
  2. Moose2013

    Moose2013 TrainBoard Member

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  3. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    The center front is U+ (blue wire). The others are F0F, Aux 1, Aux 3, Aux 5 and Aux 6 (the same as the lights at the front). These pads are before the resistors, however (i.e., you would need to add your own).
     
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  4. Trashman

    Trashman TrainBoard Member

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    The information is very lacking in the manual for this board. Specially when it comes to the lighting functions. The board has built in LEDS but no information on those “soldering pads”. Thanks for the link I looked at the manual before even posting.
    Peace be with you,

    Arthur
     
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  5. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    The manuals never refer to these pads, as they are actually "manufacturer use" pads, for testing. But, they work well for our purposes, too.
     
  6. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Here's a complete mapping of the pads on the underside of the board

    58721 annotated.jpg
    You must add resistors to use the pads
     
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  7. Trashman

    Trashman TrainBoard Member

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    Brodzinsky

    This has been very helpful and was just the information I was looking for. I know this board is to upgrade the new Atlas (silver) to (gold). With all the extra functions for lighting now we have just as much flexibility they do in HO. Not comparing the two scales but I can’t wait to see what modelers will do.
    Thanks for the help. Still a bad idea we have to use resistors LOL, but we do what we must.
    Peace be with you,

    Arthur
     
  8. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

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    Dumb question....I was trying to find out exactly which locos this board worked in and found in a couple places....

    "Atlas Spur N Diesel Locomotive"

    What is 'Spur' and why don't the decoder manufactures provide some better documentation on what exactly their products fit and how to use them. I feel there would be a lot more interest in their products if they weren't so intimidating to deal with. I've converted a number of DC locos at this point so am gaining some knowledge but still ESU seems to be about the worst with trying to find the info you need on their website and that is a shame since it looks like they have some of the best products.

    Digitrax at least has a 'Decoder Selector' option right at the top of their pages. It isn't perfect but way better at seeing if they have a drop-in or wire-in decoder for a model. I haven't found anything similar with ESU. Do they have one? At my age I'm trying to get up to speed quickly and it almost seems like you have to belong to some cult for a number of years to figure some of the decoders out :(.

    Oh, I never could find a place that listed the Atlas locos the 58721 works with. Shame as I have some Atlas loco's and might try one out if I knew the decoder would work in one of them,

    Sumner

    P.S. Thanks as always Rick for your well written explanations.
    .
    .
     
    Mark Ricci likes this.
  9. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Mostly, because for sound, it gets a whole lot more complicated. Basically, if Atlas (or IM, where these also fit) have a factory installed ESU option, these decoders will fit "drop in". If there isn't the factory option, they MIGHT work, with frame modification, and usually needing wires to attach a speaker and to the motors. But, you are correct, it would make life easier if there was a comprehensive list of models; just would probably take a full time employee to keep the list up to date.
     
  10. Dangerboy

    Dangerboy TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for posting this. I have a couple on order. I will need a better look when they arrive, but I think I will remove the AUX 5 and AUX 6 LED's, and attach my ditch lights there so I don't need to squeeze in a resistor. I did something similar on the older v4 board. I'm just doing some research while I wait for them to arrive. Looking for info from others who have worked with the new boards. I see the frame pads at the front of the decoder are no longer there as well. That shouldn't be too much of a problem.
     
  11. peteyPab

    peteyPab TrainBoard Member

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    Please post if someone is able to install the 58721 in an Atlas engine..... 2006 and older. I'm concerned on the milling and available area. I feel these are designed more for the IM locos?
     
  12. peteyPab

    peteyPab TrainBoard Member

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    I grabbed one of my gold atlas n scales and they do in fact use this board. After comparing how it would fit my older style atlas bodies (narrow hoods) it's actually a cake walk. I was concerned with fudging with the integrity of the metal halves, motor mounting issues etc... You can simply cut/mill out the top portion of the metal halves where the wide part of the 58721 board will sit. Leave the metal board connection areas in tact . Essentially there will be four nubs where the board can connect. You only need to connect a pair of pads and don't need all four.. depending on the model you have to work with. Should be safe for GP30, GP35, -8, U23B etc... owners.
     
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  13. peteyPab

    peteyPab TrainBoard Member

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    Anyone out there have physical dimensions of the board? I'm concerned on the middle thick part of 58721. Hopefully it will clear enough area to fit in a GP15 and other similar sized GPs. Might be cutting it close due to the engine mounts.
     
  14. peteyPab

    peteyPab TrainBoard Member

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    Did anyone catch that the 58721 has track pads on both sides? 73100 didn't. This is muy bueno for electrical contact integrity.
     
  15. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    This is similar to the 73199, which also had power pickup on both sides. The 58721 is the replacement for 73199, not 73100
     
  16. peteyPab

    peteyPab TrainBoard Member

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    Not many other options and who knows when and if ESU will have a replacement. I sent ESU a message and will follow up with a call tomorrow as they are closed for the day. I ordered a couple new boards to see what I can do in the meantime.
     
  17. peteyPab

    peteyPab TrainBoard Member

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    IMG_3044.JPG IMG_3045.JPG IMG_3046.JPG



    Finally got around to installing it in my older GP30. It took more time than I realized, but I can claim it can be done on the older Atlas units. Next steps would be to build a speaker enclosure and lighting for the number boards, headlights, cab etc... There are a gazillion lights that you can control that are already on the board. Some folks may just stop after the speaker enclosure..

    This is my first loksound install.... Some notes that may help others..... Be very careful of the frame especially when securing it in any size vice.. It's fairly soft and can bend easily. I needed to go back and bend and adjust it in a few places. It had warped on me several times. Mill / cut / file very carefully. Invest in a dial or digital caliper. This was very handy and will save a lot of time and headache. I researched various dremel type brands and decided to go with the dremel brand. I purchased the Dremel Stylo + pen and purchased other very small engraving attachments that it fits into. The Stylo is more than you need for power. It's also very sleek and fits nicely in your fingers. The others are too bulky for this type of work on N scale.

    I snipped off a portion of the motor contacts so they would not interfere with the board placement. I cut a small piece of tubing and slipped it over the remaining motor contact so it will not pinch and short on the chassis. I milled out the chassis in the center, so I could have the flexibility to install and remove the board at will without the cumbersome process of taking all the pieces apart. The metal shavings go everywhere and gets very messy. Besides using eye protection I'd recommend doing it outside. Not only will it go all over the workpiece, table, vice etc.. it will go all over your shoes, clothes and your skin. It's very annoying. I increased the width of the chassis on top as well in order for the chassis to not interfere with touching some of the electrical components on the ESU board. Kapton tape is ok, but its still tape and tends to peel off. I'm not very impressed with it. Removing metal is a sure thing. Kapton tape isn't. You also are not able to shape and bend Kapton tape in some of the small ridges. I did put tape on the bottom of the board itself, so it wouldn't accidently rub on the chassis.

    Has anyone tried their hand on installing one yet? I'm not looking forward to the LED wiring and soldering.. It's just so small. :( I'll have to go figure out the resister, LED types, brands... etc.. Hopefully someone can share a few tips.
    [​IMG]
     
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  18. Breech2021a

    Breech2021a TrainBoard Member

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    I need some help locating a good ground to attach the black/white stripe wire of the KA1 keep alive to the new ESU decoder boards. I know on the bottom, the center front is the U+ for the blue positive connection. Where is a good location for ground? This decoder works great in the new atlas GP-40.
     
  19. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    The pads on the three orange-ish capacitors that are against the edge of the decoder (on the top) are ground. Or, carefully clear some insulation off on the bottom of the decoder about where the screen printing says "LS5" (go just before the "L". The first metal plane you get to under the insulation is ground. There are no specific pads that get you there.
     
  20. Breech2021a

    Breech2021a TrainBoard Member

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    Thank you. Same place as the TCS decoders. Those TCS keep alive working pretty well. I highly recommend them for at least one or more engines.
     

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