Since some of my earlier Geeps need maintenance. I was wondering what you guys do with yours. I try to vacum my layout, but usually forget, so I get a lot lint on my gears. On my first geep I use the motor cleaner used on RC cars. It works well, but I am not sure if it is safe on the motor. On my second geep, I try to disassembling the engine. Boy, did I make some mistakes. Joe suggest that you loosen the nuts, and wiggle the trucks loose. Thats what I should have done. Reassembling the engine is no fun, and that not counting how fragile are the engine shafts. My suggestion is dont dissassemble the engine unless you have to. Robert, I hope you can chime in on how you improve the Geep.
I found that by loosening the 3 frame screws 1/4 turn, and gently prying the frame halves apart will help speed up a slower than normal GP35. I have also found that some trucks have more friction than others, so take them out and blast them with electric motor cleaner to get the oil and guck out, then blow dry with canned air, a puff of MTL Greas-em graphite powder blown into the trucks, and 5 minutes of fast back and forth rolling across a self healing cutting pad (for traction because of the rubbery surface) really works wonders at loosening up the trucks. I do a second blast of motor cleaner to get the graphite out and lube with Labelle Light Oil to bring the truck back into service. I have found on the frame half casting where the truck wipers rub and make electrical contact are rough, causing the trucks seem to stick while turning, can be fixed by a buffer wheel with a bit of rouge to polish it. I also buffed out the contact wiper on the truck as some of those were poor stampings with rough surfaces that grind away at the frame halves till they start binding.
I see that this tread is starting to payoff. I have a engine that sticks at one corner. I tried to loosen 1/4 turn, but it din't work. I can sence that there was binding of the truck when I turn it by hand. Thanks
I've noticed too that the trucks often do not turn as well in one direction. This is due primary from the rough surface of the casting as compared to Marklin's smooth polished metal-on-plastic design. The electrical contacts are angled (same as Marklin) so the drag in one direction but tend to plow more in the other. Polish them up like Rob suggests.
Thank you Jeff. Until now, my solution was to run them one direction. I notice there was a click when I turn the truck, but I din't want to send it back, I was having fun with it, and it was at one corner wich I would avoid. I only plan to have three, but they are so addictive, so now I have six.
Good stuff here. I had tried to loosen up the screws after Joe had originally said that some months ago, but did not try to pry the frames open a bit. Without the prying, loosening the screws had no effect on mine. I need to get one of my GEEPS running better before NTS. My ATSF GEEP is literally half as fast as my PRR GEEP. The PRR matches the MTL F7's and AZL's pretty well. Randy
Randy, from my mistakes, I can tell you if the bushings are not aline with the slots then they will pinch the worm gears. I also think one of my bushing does not match the slots causing it to pinch, because I test it by switch the sides I put the bushing. Its always the same bushing that causes the slots to be too wide, and you have to screw it tighter to close the chassis. I find that some cars derail for some strange reason. Its all cause by the manufacturing being a little off, specially the well cars. I always find that I have to do a little debugging before it runs well.
