I'm finally starting my layout and had a question about MTL's flex track. I've only see pictures of it and was wondering if the tie size and spacing is the same as (or close to) the tie size and spacing on MTL's Micro Track. I want to lay parallel tracks and since MTL doesn't make another radius curve track to be able to do this I was thinking about using the flex track if it looks pretty much like the micro track in terms of tie spacing and size. Thanks in advance. Joe
Maybe not exactly what you are looking for but here is a link to some of the different track suppliers which show some of the difference between them. http://www.platelayer.com/mj/zscaletrackdimensions/index.asp
Here's a side by side look at the two track offerings from Micro Trains: John http://www.ztrains.com
According to the above picture, it appears that both have the same tie spacing, but Micro-Track has thinner ties than Flex..... Dominique
Take a look at this site also for diemtions on flextrack. http://www.platelayer.com/mj/zscaletrackdimensions/index.asp
Looks like 18 ties for MTL, 13 Ties for Marklin and 12 ties for Peco in the same length of track, with Peco's ties being the "chunkiest" as well. If only MTL would make flex in longer than 12.5" lengths. Randy
Mike, If you see them after they've been ballasted they look more uniform. Someone posted a comparison of the joint between flex and roadbed and you couldn't tell the difference once they were ballasted. Randy
I found that you can blend them in together OK, but it takes some work. First I sprayed the roadbed track with Dullcote, which lets white glue stick. Then I painted the rails Roof Brown. Next I painted 50/50 white glue and water in between all the ties between the rails, and sprinkled Arizona N Scale ballast on, and shook the excess off. Last I painted on the glue mix to the outsides of the ballast profile and sprinkled with Arizona ballast. I blended in a turnout on a module with Peco flex too, but tie spacing makes it much more objectionable:
Wow Robert, that looks great. I've been holding out on the larger radius curves before I finishing planning out my first official Z layout - but I'm not sure how much longer I can wait. I think I may have to go with the flex track. Either way, I really appreciate the tips on making the track more realistic. Newbie question, sort of... I didn't know you could paint the entire rail and still get good conductivity. Did you paint the rails and then sand the tops? Is that even necessary? What is the scoop with respect to paint and conductivity? Thanks in advance.
Yes, that's what I do. For flextrack I spray paint it Floquil Roof Brown, ballast it, then sand the paint off the tops of the rails.
How do you get a turnout back up if the mechanism goes bad? It looks as if you have it down really tightly.
Actually it's simple Don, I just mist the turnout with water/alcohol mix, let stand 10 minutes, slide all 6 rail joiners back onto the flextrack side of the joints with a jewelers screwdriver, and pry the turnout up with a small 6" flat metal ruler slid under the turnout. Because I use 50/50 white glue and water, the ballast loosens to a soft, somewhat rubber cement feeling bond when misted with water. Then I use the ruler to scrape all the lumpy ballast out, leaving the cork roadbed smooth and clean for inserting another turnout in it's place. The turnout above, a new MTL turnout, replaced a burnt out Marklin turnout, and fit right in without disturbing the track right next to it. The only thing of note is that there is no bulky switch machine on the MTL turnout, so I had to cut out some extra cork to look good.
Thanks Robert. SIMPLE if you know how, but now I know how. Again thanks for the detailed explaination.
Robert, the ballasted Microtrack looks incredible good. I must try it bymyself. Where can I buy Arizona Ballast?
Very nice, Robert! I find sanding leaves scratches on the railheads--and it's my opinion, mostly unscientifically--that the scratches invite dirt. Dirty tracks don't conduct electricity well, leading to poor running. Z engines need all the conductivity they can get, and as few scratches as possible is a good thing. I wipe my rails with a rag moistened with lacquer thinner. It works well, and leaves no scratches. It takes a little longer, and you need good ventilation.
About sanding the rails. I sand mine, but sanding is part of the polishing process. Maybe I will use 600 grit to get the paint off then go to 800 or 1000 grit. To finish use 1500 or 2000 grit or even go further and use metal polish. Some people use the metal polish anyways to keep track clean. When I hand lay track, I plane the top of the rails with a mill file to get them nice and flat. Then start with the sand paper like above. If the hardware store doesn't have paper this fine then try an auto parts store.
