Hey Guys, I decided to start a post of my weathered rolling stock and engines. I have been trying new techniques with airbrushing, chalks, dry brushing, decals, and paint pens.I will try and explain the best I can on my techniques of the model I am showing as I have about ten or so cars and a few engines done so far. The first model here is a Western Pacific gondola that I believe was an Accurail model.I first added Kadee #5's and then I masked off the WP reporting marks and painted black and then added the Nashville and Eastern lettering using the Woodland Scenics letters and a burnishing tool.I then airbrushed roof brown and then rust colors to the model and then hit it heavily with chalks.I painted the trucks and couplers with burnt umber acrylic paint and then hit them with rust chalk while the paint was wet.After a few more coats of chalks I then sprayed the whole model with Testors Dullcoat.I think it turned out OK. The next model I am working on is a boxcar.I will post the pics tomorrow.
Would you like some feedback? I think your trucks and wheel faces are too yellow, if my monitor is showing what you have done accurately. I would cover them with a bit of burnt umber, just a light misting, to get them closer to the colour that real rusted wheels usually have. Otherwise, I think you have the right idea. Some darker streaks up the sides of the car body might be useful.
Unless its only going to be used in a steel mill and never used to haul anything on a railroad its ok. Otherwise it needs dimensional data and other information. It looks like its been dipped in brown paint. Its too weathered.
Not exactly how I would word it, however I semi agree. Color and weathering aside, the cosmetics of the car look brand new. Now, the color and weathering alone are beautiful! However to get that dusty/rusty, especially on a gondola, the cars going to get a few nics, dings, dents, and gashes, along the way. Here's one example from a quick Google search. I cant wait to see more.:thumbs_up::thumbs_up:
I think it looks great. We haul gons out of Progress Rail and they are all rusty and beat up. Sometimes you can read the reporting marks, sometimes you cant. I know it's hard to do for fear of ruining a good model, but some dings and dents would go a long way on that model.
I have a suggestion too. Starting with Crandell, how about you guys posting a photo of your weathering job as an example so we can see the differences? Some may be greasy, some with white dust, brown dust, bemt, gouged, ripped, spot patched and re-painted and some where the taggers were at work I remember a picture of a box car where the fuy didn't get finished when the car was bumped by a string he did not see coming in the dark. Crossed out his own tag! HA! . I feel that is the fair thing to do. It is easy to criticize when you have proof to show everyone how you did it. . .
I think it's the contrast between your car and the green mat which makes it seem slightly yellow. I have seen cars like this. Seeing that scrap load- Perhaps if you could give it a few dents and dings, to indicate heavy service? I would agree with the trucks color suggestion. As rust ages, it darkens and usually fairly quickly. Boxcab E50
Any one can do it. It's only the risk to damage a car for the scrap yard. And - to give the truth - this bent car was not my intention. But a good result. Wolfgang
You are correct... The car is not that yellow.I think something happen with the flash or the lighting because it is actually browner. Wolfgang that gon is awesome.
I must disagree, respectfully, watash, because your statement contains an error in logic known as an 'informal fallacy'. Specifically, your error is one of relevance called "ad hominem", meaning taking the argument to the man, literally. The error is trying to turn the argument back onto the person, as if they are somehow inadequate in their person, thus rendering them incompetent or somehow unworthy, and not debating the merits of the premises in discussion. It would be one thing to say, "No, you are incorrect...the wheels are just fine as they look,", and, "Well, show me yours if you are so good," which is essentially what your quoted statement above is saying. I didn't say I was good, or that I could even weather a gondola myself. I merely offered feedback saying that the wheels don't look like the rusted wheels I see in my day-to-day travels. We can certainly debate that premise, but not the one you imply where if I can't do it myself, I am not in a position to state what my brain suggests is the case. :tb-rolleyes:
Still, if I am required to put up or shut up,...:tb-biggrin: Here are some of my minimalist weathering applications:
Tom, I do really like the overall look of that car. What's particularly nice to me is the overall look of the sides, esp since to my eyes the effect seems to fade or feather nicely. Couple of suggestions, though: agree with the earlier comment about dimensional data and other stenciling; and if you haven't already done so, think about cleaning off the wheel treads to prevent transferring the weathering to the rails when the car runs. And I personally do love the way we've now seen three different approaches to weathering, great way to get inspiration!
Hi there Thomas, I will put one of my early models here for your comparison; I did this car without a Prototype in front of me. Now that I've done a few of them with the Prototype up on screen I can see my apparent differences. Not to say that is what you did. Later I will dig one out that I did with so you can see the difference. With that being said though there is no definitive right or wrong when it comes to weathering; because the environment isn't right or wrong now is it....:tb-wink::tb-cool: On top of which it's your railroad so if your happy with the outcome then it's all good:thumbs_up: I did find one but excuse it's in n scale
Hey Thomas that came out SWEET!:tb-cool: You Go Man!! The Graffiti looks great.....SWEET you didn't need an example just more time to finish:tb-wink: Glen :thumbs_up::thumbs_up: