Yep, that's what I do also. Dry brushing is a good idea and I will try that Dirk & Jamie, you guy's are right on the money, the scenery looks fine in person but it just looks wrong in photos. So two options, doctor the photos in my computer before posting, or try some cool white fluoros. I think I will go with option 1 and if that doesn't work buy some new tubes. Not a big problem, just bugging me a little bit. I always knew that to take really good photos I would have to improve the lighting.
Sometimes I have the red tint issue, too. I found that in most cases, my camera was set incorrectly for the lighting. I was using "fluorescent" setting at the club, but they have high-class "daylight" fluorescents, so the photos are "reddish" color. It's easy to fix on the computer. If I can remember to set the camera correctly (like "auto" for lighting in some cases), I can expect to get better results. It's much more difficult when there is a mixture of lighting types/bulbs.
There are so many setting on my camera that I get a little confused sometimes. However, I think I have it sussed now, I took some pic of new tree planting on the removable section and made some adjustments in the computer and the results... I'm happy now. I have about 250 Heki mini forrest trees to plant, I tried to build my own but just too time consuming given the number of trees that I need.
Looking very professional, but even with the trees, loose gravel, and grass the rocks need some depth. I think the color is very good just need some shadows and maybe some loose gravel in the cracks. Looking very good.
I applied some black wash to the cliff faces and yes it does look better. I agree that there needs to be some loose rock/gravel perched on the cliff face, it will happen. A long shot showing most of the new plantings A close up shot to show how the rock faces look with the black wash.
More progress, I am almost around the corner with the scenery having added a painted backdrop... some pics: The painting is a little uneven in places and I intend touching up the worse affected areas, still it does what I intended, adding depth to the scene.
Wow! Excellent effect, Ken! Truly believable scenery guides the eye back to the train. You have clearly mastered the skill.
Very nice !! Those scenes look great Ken ! The tunnel entrance is just amazing !! Good job ! :thumbs_up:
Ken, I have just found this thread and read it tonight and you have gone from mess to masterpiece, you have done some great work there and should be proud of what you have achieved. Shaun
Firstly, thanks for the kind words guys. More progress, I am now at the bridges and am heading for helix two. I have splashed some paint and sowed some flock grass around the bridge area. It is still at the rough stage and will need some touching up before I plant yet more trees. Anyway here's a pic... The center bridge will be taken out temporarily while I add some flowing water and also it is not quite sitting right, so some adjustment is required. I want to add some boulders for the water to flow over and create a fast flowing mountain stream. This will be a first for me as I have not worked with water effects before. I do intend playing around with a trial mock up to get the feel for what works and what doesn't. But that will be after I have the basic scenery for the upper level completed around helix two.
Hello Ken, I just checked your latest progress shots, very nice. For the water in the stream have a look at clear latex chaulk, the kind that is used to seal bathtubs to the wall. You can form it into waves and even add whitecaps on top of eddies and curls. This is a river shot on my layout: It will never cure completely, so it is a tad difficult to keep clean. A small vacuum cleaner and a small brush do the trick for me. (and yes, the order to the track gang is already out to replace the PECO track with ME bridge track and to add guardrails...) I was always very hesitant to use anything liquid (like resin or magic water) on the upper level, fearing that it could drip down to the lower level and ruin a few switches, tracks and engines.... Cheers Dirk
Dirk: Great shot. love the scene you have created. I am not sure at this stage what I will use to make flowing water, I will do some trials of different things and will include the latex chualk you suggest and see how it turns out. A couple of pics of recent work. I am not far form completing basic scenery for the upper level. Helix two and the next area to work on (the strange patern on the background is the sun shining through the window) Helix one to the bridges complete basic scenery. Once I have the upper level sorted I will then turn my attention to the lower level which will be a different challenge.
Ken, How deep is your helix and what is the radius you are using? That aside, everything looks great!
The rails rise 16", there are 6 complete loops of the spirial, the bottom loop begins at 16" radius and at the top is 23", the grade within the helix is about 2% give or take a little due to inaccuracy in my capentary. If I were to build this again I would go for less grade. Trains longer than 20 or so cars need three locos to pull them up grade without wheel slip or using excessive speed. It was a fun build and I like it. I would like to have the upper level sceniced by Christmas, well that's the goal I am aiming for (I'm running out of trees again)
It's been awhile since I last posted and I haven't really done alot, but I did manage to ballast some track. Then I got the itch to run trains. Which means, tidy everything up and clean the track, then... ACTION... Roll the cameras... I was going to post a video of trains running but are having trouble uploading to youtube... AHHGGG!! My browser keep timing out. Mybe later. This is the first time around the upper level for some new additions to my rolling stock roster. A new Kato AC4400 on point (runs sweet right out of the box), an Atlas articulated auto rack and a Delux Innovations 5 car Gunderson twinstack. I heard a noise while shooting the video as the train sweeps into the curve around helix one. I discovered that the autoracks were clipping the signal head on the way past. So I will have to reposition the signal a little further from the track. A pic of the bridges and new ballast.
