I got the parts I needed to built my control box for the station tracks. Pretty simple build all and all, just some toggle switches and some pushbuttons each with a common and the other leg to an output. The pushbuttons are going to the DS64s and the toggles to the tracks.
Are those Momentary switches like I have for my turn outs? And what are the Black buttons for. And can we see inside the box please?
I was hoping you wouldn’t ask that… the pic I took of the inside was too blurry to post. But I may open it tomorrow when I start building the tether to the modules. the black pushbuttons will activate my DS64s to control the switches on the modules. The DS64s will also be able to be controlled by a throttle when running DCC. When running DC there will need to be some other method for controlling the switches so I added the push buttons. The toggles are latching, and they will be directly responsible for allowing power to the rails on all 4 of the station tracks.
Not a big deal. was just curious what the inside looked like And latching means what? Are DS64s those Digtrax things? Sorry, for all the questions, or am I
Latching is where the switch stays on or off, think the light switches in your house. Momentary is the switch will return to its normal state after it’s activated. Yes the DS64 are those Digitrax things under the modules I posted in other posts. I think in the T-Trak thread you can see them.
Beware, DS64s have been discontinued by Digitrax. The new DS74s are very similar, but not identical in functionality.
The inputs and programmed routes on a DS64 will work on a DC layout. They need to be powered from an adapter or other source instead of the track.
? ? Explain again how the momentary buttons work? Wasn't planning on running DCC 'aven't a clue what's entailed have two new DCC engines on way but but but . . with no "decoders" installed at all? Am toying with the idea of a "light signal setup" for insulated, separately powered switch yard sidings -> direct connect to rails with RED light if the polarity is reversed & GREEN if not (it'd only be important as the engine transitions over the two?) Bought a secondhand HO transformer (18vDC) with lots of hummm then pop, it BLEW UP after just one day of use . . Any reason, if separate throttle/reversing/brake controls, I cannot use just one deep cycle 12v or 24v automotive battery to power everything . . Have an off-grid solar system with 8 huge serial batts (up to 48v) that are constantly charging & can easily tap into . . (no more "hummm"? ) Am scratching head why not -> wouldn't there be less voltage drop under an increased overall load?
Yes, exactly, they can be used as a stand alone device once they have been programmed. Mine will be as such. I will have external power run to them and will prolly use the external power at all times, but it’s only “required” when on DC mode.
I'm sorry, I don't understand now. You've switches and a DS64/74 decoder. Why both? Either analog switches or DCC with decoder. Maybe I didn't translate it correctly?
Ok lots going on here. First momentary switches. Their function is in their name. The switch will only hold a changed state “momentarily” while being activated, then it will return to its static state. In this case my push buttons are normally open, when pressed they will close the circuit and then return to an open state when released. Think of a doorbell… push and hear the chime, let go and chime goes away. With the transformer it sounds like something isn’t hooked up or wired incorrectly, and you may have a dead short. Reversing loops and feeders attached backwards are possible candidates. I couldn’t even begin to say unless I seen the layout, and how you hooked everything up. Yes a model railroad can run on batteries, and many do. You would still need a variable resistor and direction switch to get things right, it would be much the same as any other layout in the end. But if you are popping an AC transformer, you may want to consider making sure everything else is good before adding 12 or 24 volts to it. Automotive batteries are capable of producing a lot of current and if you do have a dead short you can easily start a fire. Fuses of any kind should be on the positive circuit near the power source, and the negative side should always be gauged to handle ALL of the anticipated current for all circuits.
Acquired an 'it-load of these ->" I picked up at auction not too elegant but good enough for now, especially like the 'brake' button for reversing . . . THX! Work Now, More Later
That reminds me of my brother's HO slot-car throttles! I'm not sure how they will handle a multi-loco HO consist due to the significantly higher current load than an HO slot car.
The old Tyco slot car throttle/trigger will work fine with one “Turbo Train” which was a slot car for the rails, or one Tyco GP20 locomotive. Put 2 GP20 locomotives and the throttle/trigger will last about 10 seconds and then release smoke. Don’t ask me how I know this…
I started wiring the modules for the ladder tracks. This is a bit more complex than the rest, but no problem. I have one more full module to wire and a couple minor things to finish up and it will be a good to go. Oh, yea, I still need to program the DS64s… tomorrow I will be busy. I will get pics then when everything is finished.
Massey THX! What is the thin wire resistance coil (that the + slides across) called? Upon closer exam it appears to bear this out as the contact area looks FRIED with DARK SMUDGE and am getting either FULL SPEED AHEAD or zip/nada at all . . A way to fix/repair this? Perhaps flip over and use other clean side? Wouldn't increasing volts slightly (compared to 18-20v transformer) thereby reduce overall amp/current draw? And if using battery power do you think going to 24v+ dc would be too much? I do have low amp solar rated dc circuit breakers that I could put inline . . (ps: am finding wiring diagrams does anyone actually use these (see .pdf below) anymore? If using double-insulating rail joiners I can see where using opposing red/green indicator lights, connected to track between polarity sections, would look cool & come in handy?) http://download.atlasrr.com/pdf/Item220Instructions.pdf
A visual polarity indicator light @ junctions? ++++|| - - - - (hook RED light on same rail side) - - - - || ++++(hook GREEN across opposite rail sides) (using double track insulators if either side is reversed appropriate red/green will shine)
