If this is better posted in a different forum, let me know. I'm nailing flex-track directly into 1/4-inch plywood as an experiment on my module. (It's a trolley line running through an old railroad line through an industrial park that's now an arts complex.) I'm finding it somewhat tough to drive the nails in, while keeping them unbent. At least, nailing track into homasote was far easier. Any suggestions on making this process easier? Thanks.
Well, pre-drill the holes! Also, don't hit the nails with the hammer; using a steel punch or nailset or bit of rod between the hammer and nail will help prevent the bends! 1/4" plywood is not very stiff and it flexing is probably causing difficulty also. Heehee Like Ike said! (Guess we were both replyin' at once) ALSO: http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?60150-Question-on-Nailing-into-plywood
Thanks for the quick responses. Let me ask this. Is homasote thick enough to use as board by itself? Currently working on a 1' x 4' with crosspieces on the sides and one in the middle. None of the modules will be bigger than 2' x 4'.
Don't use nails. Get a tube of El Cheapo brand of acrylic latex caulk in your favourite colour, spread it thinly along your centerline, and press the rail segments into it, joined. Weight them down with lengths of scrap wood on which sit soda cans. I often place the soda cans on the rails, lengthwise, but I make sure my roadbed is nice and smooth so that the individual cans don't cause undulating tracks where the trains porpoise down the line. If you have well supported plywood, no valleys and hills or sagging, then just spread the caulk mustard thin so that it doesn't well up between the ties....at all! Place the rail lengths and weight them in place. Three hours later, lift off the weights and continue.... I use DAP Alex Plus with Silicone, and you can get it in several dried-colours. I use the clear.
Except glue makes it impossible to reposition track, doesn't it? And I've already moved my track three times.
Not impossible, just not so easy. Wood glue can be wetted, wait for five, and then pry up the segments you want to move. I use it for diluted for my ballast glue. If I have a trouble spot where a new locomotive doesn't like my track, I wet the ballast, pry up the rails or depress them as it seems right to do, and let the ballast dry again, hoping the new level(s) will work. When using the caulk with silicon, a utility knife or steel drywall trowel/spreader will suffice to slide under the ties and saw free the tracks. You can predrill if you must use nails and don't have the tools to insert them. You'll need to go to a tool store and get tiny bits, though, so that the inserted nails have some bite and are not too sloppy.
When i'm laying track I use pushpins to hold it in place and mark the center lines. I have built 25' of T-Trak modules with Kato Unitrack and or flex over cork. I have to predrill holes when using Atlas track nails with the 1/4" plywood on the modules
I just checked over at Model railcast and the current podcast is on track laying. I haven't had a chance to listen to it yet but thought of this thread when I saw it. You might find it useful. http://www.modelrailcast.com/ Free to listen or download but Ryan really could use any donation you can offer. ratled
My very first layout was plywood. My second was foam. My third is Homasote. I support Homasote at least every 16", and there is some sag. Mostly the sag visually adds to the undulating profile. Where the sag is more than I want I will build it up slightly. I wonder if Homasote sags, and all sags so far have been downward, can the sag reverse and pooch up?
I second the drilling of pilot holes when nailing track to plywood. I remember many bent nails. My third layout I will glue the track down with white glue in order to allow for the possibility of repair or realignment.
Hoyden, you said there was some sag on your homasote but how deep were the sections? I'm wondering if supporting a two-foot deep module with just homasote and supports every 16 inches would prevent the sag.
Glue it down with Aileen's Tacky Glue or similar product. If you need to reposition it, rewet the glue with water and it'll easily come right back up with a putty knife.
I like to use the small screws sold by TrainaidsA dot com to install track onto plywood roadbed. You will need to predrill pilot holes to prevent the screws from breaking when they hit the glue joints between each ply. I have also used Homasote as roadbed, which I really like when building a permanent layout (but not for modules due to it's weight), in which case I prefer rail spikes or nails that are just short of being able to go through the Homasote and into the plywood. I also prefer to use plywood sub-roadbed under the Homasote which is glued to the plywood with white or yellow glue. I also sand and level the Homasote, especially at the seams, and then seal the Homasote and any plywood that shows, with at least two coats of latex paint mixed to a similar color as the ballast will be, before any track is put down. This helps avoid the Homasote having any dimensional shifts due to changes in humidity. Bill in FtL
My Homasote is cut to a width to form the roadbed. The sags are in the roadbed sections that are about 3" wide and 16" between supports. My deepest sag occurred on a curve where the sag was almost 1/8" between supports.
Bingo! Glue is TOO permenant and/or messy for the first lay of track. I've built two layouts with track nails and spikes and I am a firm believer in that method. I don't want to have to pull up glued track, possilby ruin it and have to pay to replace it, and/or deal with the cleaning it off. No thanks, not for me and I wouldn't recommend glue to anyone until you are ready to make it permanent. Track nails or spikes FTW! If you make a mistake, grab a pair of needle nose and pull them out (perhaps with assistance from a thin long flathead screwdriver for stubborn nails. (BTW, I salvaged a whole layout of track when I had to rip out a layout that was at the plywood pacific stage. I hate to think what a job it would have been if I used some sort of glue - no thanks).
Jumping in late here, I have main line track on cork. But, in yard areas I too have gone directly onto 1/2" 5-ply plywood.. I regret having gone this route now due to too many spikes being rejected after they bending. But it's too late now to change it..What I do do (no pun) is get the flex exactly where I want, first having punched through those holes in various ties underneath flex and end ties sliced off for rail joiners. When track is in position I hold it and make a pilot hole with a (usually metal) push pin through the tie hole (not pie hole)..I continue holding while pulling it out (twirling it at same time to save pin from disloging from its handle)...I have pliers now gripping a spike in my other hand and push spike right into pilot hole..If too shallow I reenter pin..Looking back I was hasty to get a RR going..My final bench area, a peninsula for industries or a mine will first be covered in 12"x12"x3/16" cork tiles..
Hi I'm fairly new at this, but I use a small pair of angled needle nose pliers to nail the track onto plywood. The bend allows one to exert pressure with the other hand once the track nail has started. After bending a few, very few, nails, I learned to apply even straight pressure. Pulling any bent nails is done with a small pair of side cutters. These tools were a part of an electronics repair kit purchased at CTC.....only in Canada? Jim
