New HO layout 16x12 feet

Well I am going to take the plunge after many months. Spent alot of time researching and getting somewhat prepared. Wife and i agreed on a garage setup that is 16x12 feet.

FEC and CSX running from Tampa up to Columbia SC. Mainly frieght cars..older smaller passenger cars on a shorter train maybe.

so now my needs and desires:

need:
continous running is most
long trains, long as possible
want to run a 3 major city 4 minor city run..short scenic on each
no modern trains. staying within the 50 foot boxcar range..some engines tad larger
coal yard, chemical plant etc, orchid, ocala national forest, st johns river, jacksonville port etc.
double main line.

desire: use as much space as i can for the longest runs
have as many cars in a train as possible
small switching amount, and or operation amount
nice big yard for showing off my cars
no double back looping..would rather have a big U and divide with sceneray divders than an L.

I have been trying to build a layout from scrath and just seem to get myself into the same old design over and over. I made a big E with RTS and it worked ok with the 18o turns..but the inner turn would be about 16o.

so I am stuck on what to do..i would prefer not to have a duck under but will if it helps the overall design. Any ideas or help would be great. I am working on gathering materials to begin benchwork as soon as i know what i need to build. the design does need to be free standing, so along the wall is out.

BTW this forum is amazing as far as info goes. Thanks a ton already for hours of reading and information.

 

We need to know the space in which your layout will exist. What dimensions and shape of the room?

I have a hollow square layout with a central operating pit. I didn't mind the duckunder because I wanted to be surrounded by scenery, and I wanted to appreciate my big steamers climbing stiff grades in mountainous terrain. I like mainline running mostly, but I also now understand the value that even a small yard brings to a layout. Also, on a mostly mainline running loop layout, regardless of its configuration, you will want substantial staging/storage tracks to keep the layout from looking way too cluttered.

 

Moorius - Probably the most important first question is:

1. Number/types of doors into layout area? Windows - can you block them?
2. What are your capabilities as a carpenter, more importantly - a joint fitter?
3. How tall are you, your likely visitors, operators?

My layout space is 12' x 12', but the layout itself is 10' x 12'. Reason being I did not trust my abilities as a carpenter to build smoothly operating "lift-outs" - nor did I want to hire a professional carpenter. Nor did I want to block the windows. They are a great source of natural light as well as emergency exits even tho' it'd be a scramble.

If you can build your layout high enough, say eye level, you could substitute a "nod under" instead of a "duck under". I had to have a 42" high "duck under" while it's doable, even at my age, I'm certain there are times when I just don't want to do it.

And I would recommend against making your main line double track all the way around. While you do want at least one section of dual (passing) track, double track will eliminate the operational (hence interesting) problems of meets/passes between trains. Also, a single track (with say a 10'/12' passing siding) will just make your layout look larger.

All of this applies of course, only if you're building an around-the-walls shelf type layout. If you're doing an "island" type layout, well - someone else (who's built one) will have to give you advice.

In any case, these are only the initial questions/problems you'll need to answer - good luck it's a great hobby.

 

16x12 is not alot of space for an HO layout, I think your wishes are a tall order...
I utilized a 24" wide x 21' long area against one wall of our garage, with a folding appendage on the end for the 28" radius loop. It then does a 90* bend along the back wall of the garage and pops thru the wall into the spare room which is 10x14. It is still not nearly enough space....
We'll need to see a sketch of your area to really be able to help...

 

its an open space..no doors or windows to block..along the 16 ft section is the garage door. one 12 section is wall and the other 2 sides are open..leaving 3 feet around the edges. im 6'2 and im not a good carpenter but my vrother in law is and willing to help. yes deff want double loop main and a good size yard with some switching..i have a plan for the box with open middle for ops as well..i lik it and allows for large radius turns. wanted to see if i could do something more interesting with the space to keep the "magic" going.

thans for the info so far.

 

3 large and 4 small towns would be too much for N in that space. In HO, I wouldn't be able to fit a single yard I'd consider big.

If you want to model FEC and CSX, why no modern equipment? Do you want to model the time before CSX?

 

I'm in the middle/late design stages of a garage layout. I have more room than you do, but here's some stuff to think about tha I'm using.

First, Boxcab is right. Concrete flooring? I'm using a sealer on mine. Concrete kicks up clouds of dust and let's lots of damp through. I also found a type of caulk made specifically for expansion joints in garages that I'm filling the expansion joints and edges of the foundation with to keep damp/bugs out.

About your layout plan, have you considered a helix and more than 1 deck? I'm working on 3. If you want long runs, it might be something to think about.

I didn't see it (and forgive me if I missed it) but what's the longest piece of rolling stock and what is the longest locomotive you want to run? That'll affect your radius on everything.

And... finally... because I'm now prototype modeling myself, are you prototype modeling or freelancing your railroad? Have you got any aerial shots or industries you want to replicate?

 

In studying Track Planning for Realistic Operations by John Armstrong I quickly caught wind of the fact that certain designs work better for mainline running and other better for switching; while others are better for yards. You might study the “G” style walk in layout design. I believe it offers the most available bench work space with the least amount of aisle space requirements in lieu of the fact that you are able to walk around the entire layout. The long side allows for a sizeable yard. The ends not being symmetrical as in the “E” style layout design offer more scenic possibilities when combined with view blocks. This would allow for more towns / industries compared to most other designs.

The attached design is intended to give you a starting point for further discussion.

Jerry

 

I missed that this was a 16x12 island rather than an around-the-walls in a 16x12 room. Increases the space from what I thought you had, but still not enough to get what you want.

Start thinking about how long of trains you're going to be running. Then realize how far apart towns have to be for those trains to not be in two towns at once. With a once-through-the-scene limit, you'll realize that your mainline run won't be that long.

 

after looking at some of my plans i had a similar one iron horse and after seeing what you mean i reworked to do that. i swapped the layout to add the long part along a wall and extend it 3 feet past the main, giving more room for the yard. this allows for some long running and i added a bridge over the walk in part..atleast only have to duck under a single track bridge 5ft in the air.

well no csx and fec interest me the most..i added 22o turns on all but 2 corners now, which are 18..that should help with larger cars. so i should be able to move forward on the timescale some now.

longest train i want to run is about 36 cars. i tested the new layout in rts and found could fit 50 on mainline and 25 on town route..so ill go for about 30-36 on the mainline if i can. engine length im not real sure on to be honest.. only own 2 40ft coal hoppers atm.

yes concrete..im sealing it with primer today and then an exterior paint used on the outside of my house..i have old carpet left from when the house was built and will add in my workbench area to help. garage door is not bad and i added weather stripping all around and no more drafts.

thank you for the info..pardon my lack of knowledge..very new to the whole train world. :tb-biggrin:

 

got the floor painted today.drew out lines before i painted and all fit snugly in place with room to to get around and reach all areas. :thumbs_up:

 

With 50' cars, that would be over 22' long less engines. I think that's a bit long for this size layout.

Since you said you have only 2 cars and no engines yet, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that to run the trains you want in the space you have, you should seriously look at going down to N scale.