Hi everybody! Is there someone who can explain me in simply and accurate way how to take multi flash night shots?? I would like to start with this kind of images.... Thanks to everyone! Stefano Paolini www.photorail.com
Stefano, I would love to take some night shots, but have not yet been able to do so. (But I bet someone has!)
I'll have my friend, who is a master of night photography, chime in on this topic when he gets time. For the present, here are a few of his shots to wet your apetite... Ciao! http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BrianPlantphotos/files/7312Ghost.jpg http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BrianPlantphotos/files/AmbroseNight.jpg http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BrianPlantphotos/files/CSX66ghost copy.jpg http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BrianPlantphotos/files/PofRsignalnight copy.jpgnull
This starts getting into some fairly trick flash set-ups requiring multiple flash units and a control mechanism for them. There is a timer used sometimes to stagger the flashes of different intensities. O.Winston Link was one of the night shot kings. There was an article on his night work in Trains some time back. Check the model railroad magazine index - http://www.index.mrmag.com/ - using 'night photography' as your search criteria to find some references (regarding models, at least). Also your local library will no doubt have something of use. Good luck! Gary.
A lot depends on how complex you want your setup to be. I prefer to travel as light as possible (no pun intended). I found a flash unit that is small enough that I can carry two of them in my pocket. They are activated remotely by detecting the flash from your main or on-camera unit. No wires are necessary. Although there are many brands available, the ones I have are named Xtralite Slave Flash. I bought them on-line from Porters Camera Store. Not only are these slave units good for night shots, but I have used them for interior shots such as in a caboose. They also come in handy for flash fill coming from a different angle from straight from the camera, or for additional light on a background.
Going back to the fifties and black and white Tri-X film, I used to take night shots using both ambient light with a tripod and a l-o-n-g exposure or multiple flash where there was insufficient natural light. Four of us went to the BEDT engine terminal one night, set up our cameras on tripods with shutters open, and then used all our flash attachments, running around out of camera range, to highlight drivers and capture the moisture from the fog on the locomotive saddletanks and cabs. Got some great mood shots. When Trainboard is set up to post pictures directly I'll try to scan one. [ 19 August 2001: Message edited by: Gregg Mahlkov ]</p>
Ok y'all guys, but i need one more specification! How are related number of flash shots to time/exposure? For example, if i set my camera to B position, how i have to regulate her if i would - for example - shot 4 flashes????? This is THE question?! Thanks in advance! Bye, Stefano
If you're using bulb mode, and decide to use flash, there are two things to know. First off, the train won't be in the image as you see it, it will appear as a 'ghost' over the background. This is because the background was burned in before the flash went off. The other thing to know is that you must time multiple flashes exactly together or it'll appear like there are multiple trains over one another in the shot.
We set off at least 20 flash bulbs - not timed at all, and had no problem with multiple images. If neither the camera nor the object move, how can you have multiple images? I am not familiar with any film that would be fast enough to capture a moving train at night.
Multiple flashes are fine, but how do you handle the reflective strip? That has ruined every night shot that I have tried to take. Roger Roger Hensley - rhensley@anderson.cioe.com == http://madisonrails.railfan.net/ == == Railroads of Madison County (Indiana) ==
I have a way to use my flash to "paint" the subject with light: 1. Set your camera on a tri-pod in the position you would like to capture your subject; 2. Have a shutter cable-release attached to the camera; 3. Energize your flash strobe unit; 4. Set the lens aperture to the suggested setting for the distance and depth of field that you will require for your picture; 5. Focus; 6. Depress the shutter release cable and lock it; 7. Press the manual flash/strobe discharge button while it is in your hand, pointing toward your subject; 8. Walk about 20 feet from the camera and discharge the flash again ... 9. Continue this walk and discharge the flash until you have "painted" the entire subject with light; 10. When you have finished, go back to the camera and unlock the cable release to close the shutter .. be careful not to move the camera or tripod as you do so. Try this method a few times to see how you do. I think you will be surprised. I have used this method many many times to photograph traffic accident scenes at night and it has never let me down. Good luck!
That's what i need!!!!!!! So you have to try, try and try, right? I think there is a difference of exposure depending by the number of flash shots, but the simply suggestion you give me is what i need. Thanks, Stefano
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Photorail.com: That's what i need!!!!!!! So you have to try, try and try, right? I think there is a difference of exposure depending by the number of flash shots, but the simply suggestion you give me is what i need. Thanks, Stefano<hr></blockquote> Stefano .. the number of flashes you use really has nothing to do with your exposure setting. I suppose that's because the light produced by your strobe fades out as it gets farther away from the camera, and each flash that you produce as you move along will produce, in effect, multiple exposures that will not overexpose the previous exposure(s). Just set your aperture where you would normally set it for the distance and depth of field at used for one flash exposure. It's easy!
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Gregg Mahlkov: We set off at least 20 flash bulbs - not timed at all, and had no problem with multiple images. If neither the camera nor the object move, how can you have multiple images? I am not familiar with any film that would be fast enough to capture a moving train at night. <hr></blockquote> Let's use the following image as an example of this. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BrianPlantphotos/files/7312Ghost.jpg Now, the background was burned in using ambient light or lighting provided by the train's headlight. Since the background doesn't move, there will only be one. Now, the train was put in the photo by flashing it once as it went by the opened camera shutter. Since the background was already on the film, the engine appears as a ghost over the scenery. Any subsequent flashes would show the train moving along in different positions. The engine is only visible to the camera for the split second that light is reflected off it. Had a longer flash been used, it would have appeared as a continuous streak. If multiple short flashes were used it would look like multiple engines. You guys still with me?
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by BrianS: Let's use the following image as an example of this. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BrianPlantphotos/files/7312Ghost.jpg Now, the background was burned in using ambient light or lighting provided by the train's headlight. Since the background doesn't move, there will only be one. Now, the train was put in the photo by flashing it once as it went by the opened camera shutter. Since the background was already on the film, the engine appears as a ghost over the scenery. Any subsequent flashes would show the train moving along in different positions. The engine is only visible to the camera for the split second that light is reflected off it. Had a longer flash been used, it would have appeared as a continuous streak. If multiple short flashes were used it would look like multiple engines. You guys still with me? <hr></blockquote> You are exactly right Brian. My method was not intended for photographing a subject in motion. That's an interesting photo you have shown on your link.
