Hi George I can not comment on the PM42, I do not use them. I use the Solid State PSX units. Follow Jerry's lead, it look like a good way to go.
Jerry... I like the clean look....I am going to do the same Couple quick questions: I presume the PM42 has to be powered. Can the same power source used for the DB150 also power the PM42 ? I am using the RV power converter which is putting out 16 volts. I keep seeing something on numerous pics of PM42's that I dont see on mine. I dont have the LEDS on the back edge of the board. Is this something I should be concerned about ? I know they are indicators of shorts etc. Wondering why both of the ones I bought dont have them...hmmmmm. Disregard the last question. My eyes are so bad...LOL. I looked with my optivisor and I see there are micro LEDS soldered right to the board. I hate getting old !!!!
Note: External power supply is needed. PS14 (sold separately) or equivalent is recommended - From the Digitrax site. The power supply for the DB150 is not the right one for this device. It needs a DC power source, not the AC source powering the DB150.
George, I power the PM42, BDL168's, DS64's and PR3 with a PS14 for each device. I plug all the PS14's into cheap power strips and plug the power strips into a master surge protector. That allows me to turn everything on / off with one switch. For that reason I mounted a 12V DC jack on the L bracket that holds the connector for the PM42. Once this board is built then everything becomes plug and play. Please note all connections are soldered (not crimped). I may have mentioned this before; I program the PM42 trip sensitivity to the most sensitive setting. Experience has taught me that good connections allow the PM42 to function satisfactory. This has saved me from replacing numerous loco decoders. Jerry
Jerry... I bought a PS14. What I dont see in yor setup....is a wire from the negative side of the jack. I see the red wire going to the terminal ok. How is the PS14 outside jacket run to the terminal ? Hope that made sense.
UP5's Someone PLEASE tell me UP 5's DONT need to be powered ! I am going to have one about 10 feet form the DB150 and another daisychained from the first and about 10 feet further down line (approx 20 feet total) . Anymore 'surprises' and this DCC stuff may well end up on TrainStore. :sad:
The black wire is mostly hidden behind the red wire in the photo, but it is there and required. The PM42 manual (downloadable) will show the appropriate pin out numbers for 12V + and -. The UP5's do not require a power supply unless you want to take advantage of the "throttle" battery saver feature. One PS14 power supply can provide power for this feature for up to 10 UP5's daisy chained. I would recommend using the throttle battery saver feature. Jerry
Another thing you can do George, is get a larger DCC supply and run a DC bus around your layout You can also power the UP5 by tapping track power as well. The two screws on the back of the UP5 are for such activities.
I'll echo David. I use a converted PC power supply for all my accessory power (UP5s, SRC16s, DS64s, Miller engineering signs, street lights, etc). Provides +12V, +5V, +3.3V, -12V (and GND) outputs. Here's a link to a thread with a complete how-to. It is a very inexpensive way to get near unlimited accessory power to a layout.
You can power UP5's in several ways. You're not actually powering a UP5, btw. You are adding a way for a throttle to get power when it's plugged in. Keep a fresh battery in the throttle(s) and no power is required. Connect a PS14 or similar Dc power supply to each of the coax jacks on a UP5. You can use one PS14 to power several UP's. 1.Run a bus from a single supply to each of the coax jacks as already posted. Depending on the number of throttles that will be plugged in, a single PS14 may handle this for you. 2. Connect a PS14 to the first UP5. Then connect a single wire from the little solder hole to the same hole on each UP5. This is the positive wire. Negative is through the loconet cable. Instructions for doing so are in the UP5 manual. 3. Connect Track power to the rear track power screws. This is the simplest and definitely the most economical. The (now) working track status light on the front is also a nice feature. Nice thing about the UP5 is you can do none, one, or all of the above. Throttles will draw power from whichever source has the highest potential. None will draw power directly from loconet. This is the source with the least potential. I've seen loconet pulled down by two DT400 throttles without batteries. Martin Myers
