Question about decals

JoeS Jan 8, 2024

  1. JoeS

    JoeS TrainBoard Member

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    Ok I think there is an old saying you always come home. I grew up a few blocks from penn central main line then conrail now NS. So I got a few AZL switchers in conrail and penn central. I got a conrail Gp 30 a penn central GP 35 and conrail F7 black with the CR logo.

    So now I want more. I’d like to get an alco RS 3 and make it PC I’d also like to paint a few GP 7/9s in either black pc or black CR patch style. So my questions
    1. Where can I get pc and CR decals?
    2. Are all decals water slide? Or can some be friction set by rubbing eraser on side?
    3. Having done water slide on automobiles is there a trick to make decals not tear rip or look otherwise horrible?
    4. Being as my repaints are mostly black is it worth while to strip paint on shell or paint over?
    Any thoughts I’d appreciate. Thanks.
     
  2. CNE1899

    CNE1899 TrainBoard Member

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  3. MRLdave

    MRLdave TrainBoard Member

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    Starting with #2, since CNE got #1...........I have never seen dry transfer decals for railroad use. Most are usually business names, or advertising for use on buildings. #3, I've never done Z scale decals, but I've done a lot of N scale. First off do a test......I've had "brand new" decals that were apparently old and dried out, and they would crack as soon as you tried to slide them. You can usually "save" them by spraying them with a clear coat........I use testors dull or clear coat. If the decals are good to start with, make sure they are totally soaked before trying to slide them . If you try to slide them before they've totally released from the backing it can cause tearing. I usually wet the area I'm setting the decal on.....sometimes to the point that the decal actually floats when it's first laid down. I then dab up 95% of the liquid and slide the decal into it's final resting place with a toothpick.If it doesn't slide easily, I re-wet it. I usually let the decal set for a short time so that it starts to dry, but not too much. I then use a decal setting solution and coat the entire decal, which helps the decal snug down. #4, The more coats of paint, you put on, the more the details on the shell will fade. As far as color, you're fine painting over other colors with black........but previous lettering may show thru, and your details will fade as you add more coats of paint. Only you can decide if the stripping is "worthwhile".
     
  4. sumgai

    sumgai TrainBoard Member

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    Good vid on decal removal addition: microsol red and blue are amazing!



    another option:

     
  5. JoeS

    JoeS TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for the links adivice and videos. All are extreamly helpful. I’m thinking I can do this :)
     
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  6. A Whiteman

    A Whiteman TrainBoard Member

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  7. StevenWoodwardNJ

    StevenWoodwardNJ TrainBoard Member

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    If you'd like I could do the artwork and send you the file that you can send to a decal printer. I've been using Circus City Decals with good results. There are others out there, as mentioned above. Circus City is $40 per 8.5 x 11 sheet. I could use part of the sheet for your needs and would only charge $5 for shipping.

    I enjoy helping fellow Z scalers so don't be afraid to ask.

    Steve W
     
  8. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    I just read their instructions, and it now says:
    Minimums: There is a 1 hr artwork/design($60) & 1 Letter Size sheet($40) minimum per custom order. Orders are shipped Priority Mail with Tracking($9).

    Making it $109 for a 1 sheet order. I assume he needs to go over your artwork to find any flaws before printing, like forgetting to add outline to all text, or something. I remove all outlines from all my artwork and convert all text to curves to get the finest printing I can get out of my Alps, so any artwork I do would come out weird with extra thick lines and bleed over text, but the ability to print 1200dpi in CYMK with 0,0,0,0 as white would be awesome!
     
  9. JoeS

    JoeS TrainBoard Member

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    So Scott I went to the site. Very clean looking. Ordered some pc and conrail patch sheets very affordable but when I got to checkout and it was time to enter credit card info there was no “lock” in browser. Just a lock by the data on the page. Now I’m not text savvy but every course I had to take at work said never order if there is not a lock in browser so I stopped.
    Anyone understand what I’m saying and have any advice?
    As a victim of identity theft once I’m Uber cautious….
     
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  10. JoeS

    JoeS TrainBoard Member

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    And Steve appreciate the offer. Although I’ll probably try something already done that could be an alternative. Guess that’s why I like this forum. We got great people here :)
     
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  11. CNE1899

    CNE1899 TrainBoard Member

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    Joe,
    Which sight did you go to?

    Scott
     
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  12. JoeS

    JoeS TrainBoard Member

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    I just hit the link you sent Scott. Think it was CMR products?
     
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  13. Kez

    Kez TrainBoard Member

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    I've dealt with CMR numerous times without any problems. They even 'special made' some roadway for me in custom longer length. Nice to work with, and pretty quick delivery, as I remember.

    I assume you don't use Paypal? That's how I keep mine secure.
     
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  14. JoeS

    JoeS TrainBoard Member

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    Naw I pretty much simple cautious. No pay pal just a card and to be fair only thing I order on line is Z trains. ;)
     
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  15. tjdreams

    tjdreams TrainBoard Member

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    JoeS Go to a local store and PAY CASH for a Visa gift card with just enough on it to pay for what you want. That way the card number is not tied to your personal finances. Do not put more money on it. Use it once then destroy it. You can always go (Pay Cash) buy another one.

    As for CMR I've purchased stuff from them many times with out issue and would not hesitate to do it again.
     
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  16. JoeS

    JoeS TrainBoard Member

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    That is a great idea! Thanks!
     
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