Does anybody out there have any sugestions on how to remove the lettering off of Atlas engines with taking any the main engine color off.Have tried GOO_GONE but it did not even phase the lettering. The engine I tried was the Susquehanna -840b. Any sugestions would be helpful. Want to reletter for son's home road so he wants to keep the base colors(dont really want to paint anyhow as I have enough projects going already). Thanks in advance for any ideas
I've never tried it on an Atlas unit, but I have had success on LifeLike and Bowser freight cars with this method: Full strength SolvaSet brushed over lettering, use a pencil erasure to rub gently. It will tale some time, be patient. Gary
Stickymonk, try some Pine-Sol full strength. Keep an eye it. But I have heard other people use it with good results in a couple of days. Comes off with some scrubbing from a toothbrush. Be sure to use the brand Pine-Sol not a cheap imitation.
Matt, Ive had pretty good results using Chameleon brand stripper, made by Custom Hobbyist, Inc. Most pushers should be able to get it through Walthers. I've stripped a couple UP SD40 shells with it; it removed all the lettering and striping, but didn't remove all the yellow and gray...Kato paint is tough. Enough of it was removed to safely repaint it, though. Another stripper that reportedly works is 91% Isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Most drugstores here in the US carry it, although I'm not sure of its availability on your side of the pond. It works great on P2k shells (I just stripped another SD9 last night), and I've had other modelers tell me it works on Kato's, too.
Another product is: Joe's Model Train Gel joepol@stargate.net Joe Polchlopek 820 East 31 Street Erie, Pennsylvania 16504 I ran across him on ebay. It just takes a tiny bitty bit per letter and works on decals and paint. Full instructions come with the jar. Cameleon works well on Bachmann. Strip-It Paint Remover also works well on silkscreened painted leters, but be careful, it is highly toxic!!! Use it out doors, and use a tooth pic or pipe cleaner putting the gel ONLY on the paint, it will eventually eat the plastic too, so have a bucket of water handy to rinse it in quickly, and some Q-Tips to rub gently to get residue off. Then use a garden hose full force to wash with detergent to remove a residual residue off. It removes years old paint cleanly. If you flood it on, it can clean off rivets too! It will burn your hands, so use rubber gloves, and as always, use a face shield or at least goggles. It is made to remove years old varnish from antiques.
I have to side with Watash on something he said! Please please, if you use the "stripe-it" paint remover.... wear rubber gloves and eye protection! I had it to make little dots of blood on my arms and hands. That stuff is nasty! Burns like fire! So guys if you decide to use it. listen to us.. I've had a nasty encounter with the stuff! And Watash knows what hes talking about! I know I had the encounter with it... Refurbishing some old wood work "framing" in that house I restored this past summer.... It sure will do the trick and also turn your plastic to a smooth surface if you don't keep an eye on it! And I also found that it will also work on metals as well.... [ 24 December 2001: Message edited by: 7600EM_1 ]
<font color="336633">Chameleon was available in England but the shop that stockek it has closed down (Victors in London) I'll have a look round for it after new yea.</font> [ 31 December 2001: Message edited by: StickyMonk ]
