I am confused as what to buy to replace these standard switches that come with the Atlas remote turnouts ( which they call switches ), with something like this? Original What I want Which one(s) do I get and how I wire it? I'll need at least 2 switches for 4 turnouts as each two will be wired together to be thrown at the same time. Like this from my 1990's reprint of Nine Scale Model Railroads book. I guess the are Symmetrical? When switch thrown they either diverge onto the track? Or switch to straight for inner and outer loop? Any help appreciated on this matter!
That's the way I wire crossovers. Throw the toggle one way, trains on both tracks run straight and true. Throw it the other way, and the one switch sets to cross the train over at the same moment the other switch sets to receive it without derailing it. I even have a double slip I wired to the two switches it crosses over to. For Atlas machines, you want a double throw momentary, center off switch. Single pole will work, double pole will work but cost more for no reason. The key is double throw, center off, momentary. Also denoted SPDT (ON)-OFF-(ON). Warning label: Tortoise and other switch machines may be fine with standard toggles, but if they aren't momentary switches, they'll burn out Atlas machines.
What's a double slip? So in the chart of switches up above, I want the DPDT, On-OFF-ON one? And how do I wire it? For some reason this is confusing me, just like wiring for DCC did, till it clicked
It's complicated. Sometimes it's a crossing. Sometimes it's a curved track. It's always expensive. Only if it's momentary. That means spring-loaded, like a pushbutton. It's only on when you hold it on. The rest of the time it's busy being off and not burning out the switch motors. Otherwise you have to center the toggle yourself every single time you use it, or the switch motors burn out. Those old Atlas sliders pass one side of the circuit through, and only switches the other. Wire the black wires from both switch machines directly to one AC-Accessory terminal screw on the power pack. Connect the other AC-Accessory screw to the center contact on your new momentary toggle. Connect both red wires to one of the other lugs on the toggle, and both green wires to the third.
While the DPDT would work (as acptulsa mentioned), you only need one half of it, so you only need an SPDT-center-off, momentary switch, which is cheaper than the DPDT version. You want momentary so that when you are not pressing the switch in either direction, it returns to the center-off position on its own, saving your rail switch machine's coils from burning out. A double slip is a different kind of railroad switch. Not important to your application.
Can you show me the kind of switch I need. It’s a push button not a toggle switch correct? And where do I buy them, Amazon? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It can't be a pushbutton, unless it's a push-pull switch. You need double throw, meaning two choices other than off. It can be a toggle. Any of many styles. Or a rocker switch, if you can chisel out a big square hole to mount it. Just make sure it's labeled "double throw (DT)" and "momentary". You can get them at your local Radio Shack-like electronics shop, or any number of places online.
Ignore the push buttons. https://www.allelectronics.com/index.php?page=seek&id[m]=pattern&id[q]=dpdt+momentary
I like these all I have to do is drill a hole. Not sure how to power them like the Atlas switch. And better yet how you power this stuff on DCC, separate power source. Sorry for the newbie questions, never done this before. Only used the Atlas ones that connect to my OLD DC controller in the AC slots? https://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Posit...3&qid=1638311633&s=industrial&sbstp=n&sr=1-22
I bought the Mom On center off DPDT for Kato BiPolar switches but you can use Mom On center off SPDT... Another source - from Amazon... SPDT ver https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VHCB1Q4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 You are looking at something like this...
These are NOT momentary switches so it's highly likely you will eventually burn out your switch machines. You need ones that bounce back to the middle OFF position once you let go. BTW, rocker switches tend to require rectangular openings (making them a pain to install) and toggle switches almost always need just a simple round hole.
I posted the wrong ones. Either these below or the ones that @Mark Ricci provided a link to? https://www.amazon.com/APIELE-Position-Rocker-Momentary-KCD1-5-123/dp/B08DKCZ6JR/ref=sr_1_7_sspa?keywords=switch+rocker+momentary&qid=1638311923&s=industrial&sr=1-7-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNEE2OTlQRkNWSElNJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjM4MjgwM0c0UjFaNjJEV0ZFNSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTc0NjQ5MksxM1dMM1JVSUs1UiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1 or https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VHCB1Q4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 If the ones he provided a link too are better or easier to install I'll get them? Matter of fact I want the ones he provided a link too cause all of you know what you are talking about They are in the cart, just have to purchase them?
IINM (and the rail switch does not include diodes), the supply needs to be DC. Which polarity depends on which way you want to throw the electrical switch to throw the rail switch, and is often found by experiment. An AC supply would just cause the rail switch to vibrate back and forth rapidly while you press the momentary switch to one side. If you would prefer to use an existing (low voltage) AC supply, a full wave rectifier might be cheaper than a new DC supply. The rectifier creates (noisy) DC from AC. The noise would probably not matter in this application. On the other hand, low voltage DC supplies are pretty cheap these days.
I like them too. Unfortunately, they aren't momentary switches. Most aren't. If you use those, you have to rock it, then rock it back to the center off position yourself, and very quickly. I'd keep looking for momentary switches. Edit-you did. Both the switches in lucky post 14 are the right stuff, and you found rockers that fit round holes too. Can't help you with DCC. Sorry.
AC voltage is fine for typical two coil switch machines (which Atlas switch machines are). You are only powering one coil at a time to pull the solenoid rod one way or the other. The rod does not vibrate back and forth. Doug
So how do I supply the AC power to said toggle switches that I purchase? I have them working with the supplied Atlas switches, I simple want something that looks better, and is easy to operate. If I can get the NEW toggle switches working, no matter the ones I pick , momentary rocker or toggle, want them to operate from the AC connection on my OLD Tech II DC controller. Simple is better for me. Here are the switches I can choose from apparently? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DKCZ6JR/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?smid=A1POY47GM797OI&th=1 or https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VHCB1Q4/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=AGOSLUO29ZUJ2&th=1 Now I just need to know how to apply the AC to them wiring wise?
Wire everything like the schematic above. The negative of the power supply goes directly to the common (black wire) of each machine. The positive of the power supply goes to the center connection of all the toggle (or other type) switches. The green wires and red wires from each switch goes to the outside connections on the toggle switches. Of course, with AC current, the black and red are just for reference. It doesn't really matter which goes where from the power pack. In fact, if you use DC current, it doesn't really matter either. Just so the same terminal on the power pack goes to the same places on the switches and toggles. Doug
Thank everyone, I'll order the switches and let you know how it goes. All the information is much appreciated! Alright Momentary Rocker Switches ordered through Amazon, will be here Friday!
