Roadbed problem

I think that I might have made a major mistake when I constructed my layout. I used 5/8" particle board. Now that the weather is changing I'm starting to have problems with switches and track. the track is starting to constrict and the switches are not shifting all the way. I am going to replace the particle board and was thinking about using 3/4" MDF or 3/4" ply wood. I'm not sure if the MDF would give me the same problems as the particle board or not.

 

I had a similar problem only over the course of several years before it got critical. I changed to 1/2 inch plywood (one side good) and increased my 1x3 support structure. No more problems.

I'm not familiar with MDF so I can't answer on that. I would think that 3/4 inch plywood should give you what you need.

Roger

Roger Hensley - rhensley@anderson.cioe.com
== http://cid.railfan.net/eci_new.html ==
== East Central Indiana Railroad ==

 

Hi all, TC,I've only used 3/4" AC Ply for track support, but I've used MDF for many projects, it's plenty stable. Cabinets and such I've built with it are still great 5 years later. My guess would be it's a toss up so go with price. It isn't as forgiving of dull tools though.lol Bobby

 

I have had good success with urethane foam insulation board, "Blue Board", available at Lowe's and Home Depot for $6-9 per 4x8 sheet.

I use 3/4" sheet for the base over standard open grid, then overlay with a 1/2" sheet for cutouts like creeks, etc. Also the 1/2" sheet allows smooth transition easements for grades. (I would probably use 3/4" sheet for the overlay if I were to do it again) The grades are supported by combining 2x2" squares of 1/2" and 3/4" foam in 1/4" high increments to form risers spaced about one foot apart for a 2% grade.

I use Liquid Nails for Projects/Foam to bond everything together, and AMI for the track roadbed. It's been down for a year and half with no problems. It's also much easier to change than with plywood and wooden risers.

Hank

[ 10 April 2001: Message edited by: Hank Coolidge ]

 

TC, I have used 1/2" plywood for the base over 1x4 modules for my big roundhouse, but will use the foam up in the mountains. The only problem with using just foam over an open framework, is (when) you forget, and put your hand down on the foam to brace yourself, when you have to lean over the edge of your layout to reach something.

Yep! Even though I am usually pretty sharp, I'll admit, I did it!

I had a big black bug that crawled out onto the track with a train coming down hill and I reached up to get him off. My hand went through the foam, my face took a close look at the imediate scenery, the bug died a horrible death, and the whole train came down around my ears!

The train didn't go to the floor, but could have, a little farther around the mountain. I just happened to find the center spot between support risers with a space 12" square not supported.

Now I use wood anywhere I might have to lean on for anything! Since I use soft sponge foam for a lot of my scenery, the train wasn't hurt except for some glued on details and a few couplers. The scenery lost some trees, rocks, and then had a hole to the firey pit where my arm had been! HA!

 

Those that use MDF are in a minority, I being one of them. The way I was introduced to it is as follows. I was in a "quality" lumber yard (a place with lots of varieties of wood, over and above what you would find at Revy or home depot) mulling over all the choices. Price was also on my brain. I talked to some of the guys there and explained what I wanted, why I wanted it, and threw a special caveat in that I didn't want it to warp. They all recommended MDF so that is what I bought. The major negative is that it can be glued and screwed, but not nailed. Consequently, I am using AMI as my road bed.

I think the Colonel, on this forum, uses MDF as well. I have had it up for only a year now, but it hasn't budged a fraction of an inch. But it is heavy......lordy...lordy...it is heavy.

 

MDF can be nailed only if you drill a pilot hole first. You would have to mike the diameter of the nail, then drill .005" smaller for spikes, and .015 to .010 for larger nails. It will press fit this way, or you can drill body size holes then use a hypodermic needle to insert glue into the hole and press the nail in. Keep in mind MDF is mostly glue with sanding dust filler.

 

Watash,
I got the pictures from the local festival!!! I just have to wait till their all developed and then send them to you! I got pictures of the new club layout that i'm designing and the EM-1's, and my EL-5 together and by them self. Also I got a picture of 6206_S1a (Mikes) Challenger. Plus alot more at the show and the car shows down the street from the club building. I'll e-mail you when their on the way.

So you made a "hand made" pond huh on your layout????? Awwwww i'll bet that stank .......BAD!!!!!! I use partical board on my layout all around for the track and then cut out to lower or i'll make risers to add height. All depends on what I want to do with the scenery, raise or lower and if I want to make a grade or not. all the mountains and scenery is foam board or styrofaom sheeting, stacked to whatever I may need. All my track work is solid and rigid. So did you make that hole you made with your hand a pond?????

 

YAS-s-s-s I made the arm-hole into a pond! DON'T TELL ANYONE!! (I set a mirror there and sprinkled weeds and dirt around the edges to look roundish.)

Anxious to see photos! Remember I can not scann larger than 8x10 here, so if you need poster size I would have to take it over to Stewart Eng. to do and that would cost the time and square foot of velumn.

I have used MDF in a few places and particle board in others. There is another board called Ben-Lex we make short-run forming dies from, and spinning tools. Ben-Lex is like MDF but Ben-Lex is water proof, MDF is not, it is water resistant.

I said you have to drill a hole to use a nail, and that is not correct! If you use a powder charge above minimum power, it will drive a hardened nail through MDF like it does for concrete. In the house or basement, the sound is BAD!! I MEAN BA-A-A-D, like a 75mm going off!

 

Watash,
As soon as their all developed they will be on the way!!! The picture size is regular 3x5 or 4x6 inch. You got a bunch comming though when I get them all back!!!! I'll e-mail you when their on the way... Let me know what you think of the loco's when you see them!!!!!

 

TC, check out my post on Feb 4 01 in freelancers titled 'my layout'.

specifically look at picture #3. I too used particle board, what a disaster. I've got a ton of road bed to tear up.

Good Luck

 

I'm building a very small switching layout - using 6mm MDF amd overlaid with 3 mm cork tiles - no drumming, not too heavy and stable. No problems at all with movement. under framework is 16mm x 5mm pine, all glued with liquid nails - no screws at all. It's built that way as it has to be extreemly portable.

 

What is MDF? I don't think I ever heard of it before this topic

Thanks, Hank

[ 14 April 2001: Message edited by: Hank Coolidge ]

 

Basically a gazillion million infintestimally small saw dust particle held together by glue. What I am using on my layout is maple laminated MDF. It looks real spiffy but since most of it will be covered it is wasted. MDF by itself will do. Why the maple covered MDF? Because an idiot contractor made a large order through my local excellent lumber yard and then walked away from the deal. I was made an offer to buy some, that I couldn't say "no" to....lol.

Just wish I had bought more for other projects now!

 

Hank - I had never heard of it until I moved outside of the USA - it doesn't look like anything I can remember seeing in the US either. Does anyone know if MDF is available in the USA and if so what is it called?

 

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by yankinoz:
Does anyone know if MDF is available in the USA and if so what is it called?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

MDF = Medium Density Fiberboard

AKA Particle Board, the cheap stuff is called LDF (low density). Any building supply in the USA should have it. I think particle board may be a trademarked name, hence the move to the name MDF. There is also OSB (oriented strand board) which is a much denser board suitable for outdoor applications.

 

Welcome to THE Board of Railway UBB's Shortliner! Hope to hear more about your Layout as it comes along. Keep us posted!

 

Thanks for defining MDF ....

I guess it goes by many names depending on the size, density, and orientation of the particles, e.g. wafer-board, waffle-board, particle-board, fiber-board, etc.

Thanks, Hank

 

Welcome to our family here at the TrainBoard Shortliner, glad to have your in-put. We use MDF in making cabinets and some furniture here in the US. We also make some tooling to form aluminum on too.