Hi, today we are going to discuss running a multiple G scale locomotive lash up. In the HO and N scale world if you want to run multiple lash ups, they sell dummy units so you can do so. Well in the G scale world there are only 2 manufacturers that have diesel locomotive dummy units which is LGB and MTH Trains. All USA trains locomotives and all Aristocraft locomotives are fully powered. Lets take my USA EMD F3 ABBA lash up for example. In HO or N scale only one locomotive would be powered or just the A units would be powered, but all 4 of my USA EMD F3 ABBA locomotives are fully powered. This gives me a huge advantage in my opinion and let me explain why. As I said I run the F3 units as a ABBA set, but I have the option now to break this set down and run 2 different AB unit powered trains, or I could run just 2 AA units, or I could run just 2 A unit powered trains, now I have a nice locomotive power combination available to me. I also can pull all 85 of my cars if I had the room with no problem with all 4 units. So let me take this even further with more options. The USA Trains GP-9, GP38-2, GP-30 and F3 locomotives all use the same power trucks on all 4 models. Now I can take one of my GP-9 locomotives and lash it up to a F3-B unit and run it without damaging any gears or motor blocks, or I can take my GP-9 double header and lash it up to my GP-30 double header and have an awesome 4 locomotive train. The options are endless to me with the USA Trains that I run. I can't comment on ay Aristocraft locomotives because I haven't had any long enough to know. The only downfall to all of these powered units is you better have some serious transformer power to run all of this. Now lets talk about a break in period time. Don't be surprised if you buy 2 GP-30 locomotives for example to run as a double header and they seem to fight each other when you first put them on the track together. This is a perfectly normal action and you just have to be patient and they will eventually break in together and run smooth together. I seen so many people get into the hobby and rush into it, the next thing is they are unhappy how the double header lash up runs and they wanna take the motors out of one of the units and make a dummy out of it because they came from a HO world that has dummies ( no pun intended). I just love having of all my locomotives being powered only because it gives me so many endless options on how to mix the equipment up to run with. Here is a USA Trains locomotive motor block reference chart, this chart lets you know what locomotives have the same motor blocks and are safe to run together without motor block damage. This of of course I mean to run together safely without the use of DCC or R/C and just purely on regular track transformer power. USA Trains motor block locomotive refernce chart Group #1 all have the same motor blocks and motors USA EMD F3-A / F3-B USA EMD GP-30 USA EMD GP-9 USA EMD GP38-2 USA 44 tonner All of these locomotives listed above in group #1 are safe to lash up together without DCC or RC _______________________________________________________________________ Group #2 all of these have the same motor blocks USA EMD NW-2 USA Alco S-4 Both of these listed above are safe to lash up together in group #2 without DCC or RC _______________________________________________________________________ Group # 3 all of these have the same motor blocks USA EMD SD40-2 12 wheel drive - Note: single motor type block USA Alco PA and PB 12 wheel drive - Note: single motor type block Both of these listed above are safe to lash up together in Group #3 without DCC or RC _______________________________________________________________________ Group #4 Not really a group as of now USA EMD SD70-MAC - Note: dual motor type block No other locomotives at this time that can be safely lashed up without the use of DCC or RC _______________________________________________________________________ Special Note: No locomotives from different groups can be safely lashed together without DCC or RC
Hmmm My SD40-2's have been lashed up with a GP9 (as per prototype practice out the way) for about 8 years and I have had no trouble either with broken gears, heated motors, warn wheels, or jumpy starts and stops. Might be a fluke but that's all I run. Dave
Dave, wow that is good to know. I was always warned about mis matched locomotives even with the the same name brand like USA Trains without DCC or RC
I MU unmatched engines all the time in N scale on my DC layout. There are a lot of techniques to that such as putting the faster engines in the rear to pull most of the train, etc. I was told that as long as the wheels will spin on the unmatched engines, they will not overheat. That's probably true, but the G scale difference and the weight of the G scale engine may not make this possible. I am sure it is better to operate matched engines when you can. Interesting concept and the possible differences on the different scales.
>>I MU unmatched engines all the time in N scale on my DC layout<< I did the same thing in N scale for many years. I guess gravity wasn't always an issue so I just never thought of that being a problem on large-scale trains. I can see why it could be important though. Best thing to do would be to uncouple the lead engine, in my case the -2, and separate them by a few inches. Then start the train and see if the second unit + the train, runs/pulls at the same speed as the single loose engine. If they were pretty close then I wouldn't worry about a mismatch. They're built pretty tough. Having said that, I never mixed up my early Aristo RS3's with my USAT products simply because they were from different railroads. CPR vs. WV/CN. Now the Aristo locomotives are gone so.... Are there any documented or 1st person stories re damage? Dave
I MUed an FA to an F3B once. The F3B had higher drag because of the pickup shoes and my FA starts pretty quicker. Needless to say the only damage to the F3B was it's pickup shoes (My friend removed them anyways, he just wanted to experiment. Costly since it could have been much worse.). Until a system like the Revolution system is compatable with USAT, I wouldn't reccomend MUing them with other brands.
In G scale having units with different gearings and motor speeds can cause alot of damage due to there size and power. HO and any smaller scales arn't really affected by this too much. For G scale I wouldn't know because I only have one engine.
