Brick bridge - Part 1 My work on Zellin layout created a need to have a road bridge crossing the dig in which double track railroad is located. The size of the dog was actually already determined by the size of the layout and the the size of the dig. Due to the fact that it was my first ever scratchbuiling project I wanted to find something prototypical but not too complicated and fitting the era of the layout (50'-60') well. My idea was to have brick bridge but without round shapes. Actually most brick bridges built by Germans have the round shapes like this: So I started to search Internet. I found many "easy to built" shapes but unfortunately they were made of concrete and looked like those: Finally I found a photo of brick construction in a book concerning railway architecture. What a surprise ! The railway line is not in use any more but is located in range of 1,5 hour driving time from my place. Saturday excursion's result was some photo documentation and basic measurements done. The bridge looks like this: Finally I have my prototype inspiration to start construction !
Well! It seem to be a inspiration piece a lot of brick work But will make a very good project I would try this to but with all the brick work I think the cost would be to much to print! I'll be watching your progress looks good and a fantastic project!!!!! Best!
Zdrada69, Hey that really looks cool! you did a really great job on that one. the Paint job really make it stand out I don't get to see many of my project from shapeways get completed. thanks for sharing ! it looks as if it ready to go to work! if you don't mined I would like to post this on my site shop!
I hope it looks like ready to work but also like after 40 years of heavy duty work and not too much maintenance ... Walt, you can use a photo if you wish.
Thanks I placed the photo in my shop so others can see what you did to the model! It really looks good and thank you to!. I'm working on the Bascule lift bridge in Z scale doing a redraw on the one on my site page. trying to bring the price down! some one wants one in a different material and the drawing I did will only print in one material.
I have tried to send another e-mail to you but it was sent back to me. I didn't want to keep posting things on this post about scratch built projects.
To follow up with my bridge... The construction started with the preparation of the basic core of the structure. The cores for the "road" part as well as "legs" are made of the styrodur. The "legs" get it's texture using scale plastic sheets made by KIBRI (unfortunately they are ovescaled...) Next step is sandig properly the edges of KIBRI bricks and making the "legs" of the bridge. The core of the road is covered by NOCH ready selfsticking road (in this case the road is made of stones): Plastic rods are cut and painted - they will be used as a sides of the road:
Great start this looks outstanding already! like the kibri items. Give it a nice texture look to the road I order my printed 3D one. Keep up the great work. I found that there are many styles of brick from 8inch up to 18inches, so out of scale doesn't hurt to much. I notice in your photo the layers of brick are different one row of short brick then a row of long brick! Question? What is the width of the road on that bridge over there.
To follow up with the bridge ... Next step was to check exact measurements with already existing space on the layout and to check the clearance with the longest possible carriages. This is important because the bridge crosses curved tracks. The bricks "legs" of the bridge are painted. First layer is"brick" colour and followed by light grey which is wipped off to get an effect of filling the gaps betweem individual bricks. This was my first schratchbuilding experiance so I am not satisfied with the quality of joints of bricks panels. They should better sanded ... Another problem was discovered during clearance tests. There was not enough space for the right "leg" of the bridge on small flat area next to the track. I had to cut a bit of styrodure terrain. All the pieces of the bridge are still not gluet to each other nor to the terrain.
I really like the brick works colors look great the bridge seem to be coming along great. I have recieved all your e-mails but don't understand the out going emails really crazy I just reply to yours. Your track work looks very professional done and the ballast also. You really do fantastic work! I enjoy watching your progress. I ordered my 3D bridge and it is being printed I will send you a photo when I get it. I think the brick wok on the 3D print is real scale size so it will be hard to get the same look as you did the bricks will be too small to see the concrete or morter between bricks. Best, Walt
Next stage of building the bridge concentrated on creation of bridgeheads. Not everything was good at the first moment - one of the bridgeheads had to be reworked. I also had to change a little bit the initial and planned road location. The places to install the bridgeheads were cutted in styrodur terrain.
Have a question? Why are you making the bridge heads different size why not the same? Just wondering! I figure you would have cloned them on each end! Still looks great!
Well - most of people think that modelling in Z means plenty of space. They might expect that Z scale is space-problem free. It is not the case. I was limited with the size of the module and I made some mistakes in designing it. Nonsymetric bridgeheads are the result of that problem... This is due to the configuration of the terrain.I wanted the bridge to levelled horizontally but the terrain on both sides of the dig was not at the same level. Unfortunately the dig is also too narrow to have the proper angle of the hillside. This angle is also not exactly the same on both sides of the dig. In case the bridgeheads have the same size we would not see it anyway due to the fact that big part of one of them would be hidden in the ground. Some more painting of the main part of the bridge: I also tried to model mileage sign on the "leg" of the bridge:
Well that answered my question. Thanks! I saw the mileage signs on the bridge I was wondering if they where the clearance of the bridge I wasn't thinking of mileage. I was working on some bridge abutments: http://shpws.me/Lmbz Also did this two piece arch bridge. This is European Style! I did my own design not done from a photo or place! there is no brick work on this one! http://shpws.me/Lm4t
Walt, Bridge abutments might be definitely an usefull item for people modelling the railway in scenery with hills. Arch bridge looks very good. I have some small comments: 1. In case of European bridge of this type and time of construction (connected with design) pedestrian walkways in case of road bridge should be placed abowe not below the level of the road. There will be also no railings beetween road and walkway. 2. In case of train bridge the walkway in most cases should also be placed above tre rail level. Normally the track on this type of the bridge should be ballasted ! There will be also no railings beetween rails and walkway in most cases. 3. It very unlikely that the ends of the bridge will look like you designed them. I pointed the places on the photo: There should be a "full" arch. Of course it is sometimes hidden in the ground but I think that it is necessary to transfer pressures correctly and to have stable and reliable constructions. Please find attached photo as a reference: The final comment - maybe it is worth to design the bridge in the way which allows to combine 2 or more bridges to have one longer bridge. Pawel
Pawel, I really don't have much information on European bridges here these are just from photo's I have seen like the one you just posted. here is my 3D drawing jpg. Again I could only see part of the bridge but this is what I came up with. I added some extra parts this would have to be printed in three parts The Bridge is 350 feet lont and 20 feet wide 64 feet high end pieces could be burried in side a hill.
My bridge - continued Places for the bridgeheads are prepared in the slopes. Due to the fact that normally there is less sunlight under the bridge and in most cases there is no vegetation i made some "soil territory" there. One might be surprised withe the change of colour of ballasting. This is done by purpuse to represent optically two different mainlines - one from front of the layout and another one at the other side of layout. Checking if everything is correct with the location. Bridgeis still not glued together: Bridge "legs" are glued to the layout using white carpeter glue.
Hi Pawel, just found this absolut interesting thread. Great work and nice to see what is possible in Z scale! One question: Your bridge crosses track at ca 90°, then there is another 90° on the right bridge entrance. Would it be nicer to align bridge axle with the lane in such a way? Well, a suggestion only. You already have done a lot of work ... Steffen
