Sealing decals

DMK Jan 28, 2022

  1. DMK

    DMK TrainBoard Member

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    What about Krylon satin clear to seal new decals? Carefully spray the entire engine, car?

    DMK
     
  2. JMaurer1

    JMaurer1 TrainBoard Member

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    I use Tamiya flat in a spray can. I think I tried the Krylon flat and it went on very thick and reacted with the (Titchy) decals. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure about that.
     
  3. John Moore

    John Moore TrainBoard Supporter

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    I am currently using Tamiya Gloss to prepare for decals and Tamiya clear flat afterwards to seal the decals. Since I use flat paint anyway I just spray the area that the decals go.
     
  4. DMK

    DMK TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks
    DMK
     
  5. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    What is the part number for that Tamiya clear flat?
     
  6. John Moore

    John Moore TrainBoard Supporter

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    Tamiya TS-80
     
    BoxcabE50 likes this.
  7. Mr. Trainiac

    Mr. Trainiac TrainBoard Member

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    I have also heard good things about the tamiya spray cans. I currently use tamiya flat clear in the airbrush from the little glass jars, but I generally avoid any automotive or hardware store spray cans, even for primer coats. I've ruined a few models with really thick spray paint. The Tamiya cans are designed for scale models, so they give a much finer and thinner coat.
     
  8. gjslsffan

    gjslsffan Staff Member

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    I have used Krylon both gloss and flat for years. But I do decant it into small bottles to be sprayed with my airbrush.
    Agreed that maybe spraying direct from the can may result in a very heavy coat, that could have a reaction.
     
  9. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Thanks, John.

    I did a search on-line. Prices are all over the place! Interesting.....
     
  10. 308GTSi

    308GTSi TrainBoard Member

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    I'm still re-learning airbrushing after a 40 year gap. I'm using water based acrylic paints and clears.

    The clear coats seem very tricky due to clear and thinner being ..... well ....... clear.
    I bought a small digital scale and mixing clear and thinner has become a more predictable learning process by mixing according to weights. I white down the percentages I mixed for each colour or clear coat.

    If the paint or clear is a little too thick I increase the air pressure. If it's too thin I start again.

    The very most important thing I've learned is to have an old loco shell or car body on hand with whatever I intend to paint. I first apply the paint or clear to the unwanted shell. If the paint or clear goes on with good results I then immediately spray the project.

    As for brands I've found Microscale clear to produce very good results so far. I've sprayed it without thinning but had to have the air pressure up to nearly 40psi.
    The other is AK Interactive 3rd generation. So far it seems to be 90% clear / 10% thinners and pressure about 35psi.
    The airbrush has a 0.3mm needle.
     
    Sumner likes this.

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