I've been busy building or modifying some more freight cars appropriate for the 1930s-era version of Sweethome Chicago. All have been fitted with metal wheels, kadees set at the right height, and lead weight - the basic standard for the layout inspector. Tichy rebuilt 55 ton hopper, a very enjoyable kit, although I don't know what decals I have to suit it Westerfield DS USRA boxcar resin kit - will be Wabash Dennis Storzak resin kit of a NKP auto car An Accurail SS boxcar with 50t Dalman trucks Weathering and decals will be undertaken soon Jon
A few more Accurail 8-panel SS boxcar without fishbelly frame Accurail 8-panel boxcar (needs fishbelly removing) Walthers boxcars with door runner modifications Jon
Tell you what, just go ahead and box that NYC box car up and send it to me. I will send you some C&O decals for that paneled hopper.
I got a Westerfield SU boxcar kit ready for the paintshops last night. Close up of truss rods Close up of brake end Jon
Excellent work on the Westerfield model. I like the "T" Brace end. I have seen the Hutchins end cars in the same series and they look great. But that's really the first T brace kit I have seen built. I have a Hutchins end kit sitting amongst my Westerfield kits that I have yet to touch. It has the Atlantic and Danville decal set with it. What decals are you planning for that car? You've done a "clean" job on the assembly and its gonna look good when it comes out the "paint shops".
The A and D kit is one of the 'modernised' cars from 1941+, although I think the only modenised thing about it is the additional grab on the bodyside. My next order will include Southern and M&O examples with Hutchings ends. Jon
I'm curious, Jon. When you say "Walthers boxcars with door runners modifications" are these the older Trainline/Train Miniatures cars or something else...and just what did you do in the way of modifying the runners? NYW&B
The original Walthers models have big ugly door runners (to my eyes) that allow the door to open and shut. I removed the top runner, which is held in by 3 mounting lugs and filled in the recess with strip styrene and added another length of styrene to simulate a new, thinner door runner. The bottom runner had to be carefully carved away. I modelled some of the bottom door runners with strip styrene and others with small pieces of T-section Evergreen. Unmodified door runners Modified examples Jon
Another Westerfield reaches undercoat stage. This time it's a UP 50' automobile car (the 1930 peaked-roof modernisation). This kit was a bit more difficult than most as the side castings were slightly banana-shaped (one rose slightly to the right and the other dropped down). Still I'm happy with the result. I also got the undercoat on the SU boxcar Jon
I knocked up a video tonight, showing a train of Accurail SS boxcars. It's sort of 1930s-ish, apart from the 1950 Bewick- D'oh!! [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-BmCAl5vp0"]YouTube - Belt Railway 2-10-2 at Sweethome Chicago[/ame] Still, it's starting to get there Jon
You have done an excellent job on the cars! Going on memory only; I seem to remember seeing the 36 foot truss rod box cars all during the 1930's maybe up until the war when the steel center frame 40 foot cars began. The Salad Bowl Express pulled wooden 38 foot iced reefers until the steel 40 foot refrigerated ones came along during the late 30's early 40's. All had roof walkways with brake wheels up high until the middle or late 40's. A lot of the box cars had the whole side painted as an add, like Rath Black Hawk Ham, Armour's, etc. which were a delight to us kids. Am I getting senile? .
I've leafed through your images and looked at a couple of your videos. Your layout is truly magnificent Jon. But I don't see a layout plan among the graphics. Do you have one posted?
A few more kits got to the decal stage last night The NKP decals on the autocar were a nightmare as they crumbled when I soaked them. No amount of liquid decal film could save them. Storzak NKP autocar Funaro ARA boxcar (or is it AAR?) Westerfield SU boxcar Westerfield USRA boxcar I still have the other sides and ends to decal before weathering down. Jon
