I was wondering if anyone knows of any pictorial type information or tutorials on spiking hand laid turnouts (this is versus the PC tie method). I ask because everything I have found has to do with the PC tie method and have not yet come across anything on 100% spiking (aside fromt the throwbar). Cheers Bruce Oh, and one day I will actually stop asking questions and start answering some....that's when I know what I am doing
I can give you general directions. 1. Spike down the straight rail first. Spike on both sides except in the points area and guard rail area. In these areas only spike on the outside. I like spikes every 3-4 ties. 2. Make your frog points. I use a very thin piece of brass under the frog area so that I can solder everything together. I tin the brass before installation. Make sure to polish the back side of the rail and also tin it. I then solder each rail individually as I install it. Spike each rail before soldering avoiding the frog wing area. 3. Spike the closure rails to within about 3-4" of the points. If you are going to make "DCC Friendly" points, then I would spike two ties before and 2 ties after where I cut the rail. 4. After you make your points by soldering them to the PC tie, then spike the diverging rail to gauge with the diverging closure rail. 5. I then glue my guard rails in place with super glue. Make sure to have a spare truck available and continuously test your turnout as you go. It is much easier to correct early than to have to tear it up and start over. David [ 04. February 2004, 00:46: Message edited by: ncng ]
David is right on Bruce ... I would only add: Keep your track gauge(s) and NMRA gauge handy and use them frequently to check not only the gauge, but check the flange clearance as well through the frogs' heel and toe, and guardrails. Since there seems to be a variety of flange thicknesses on any given set of wheels, the NMRA gauge is the best bet.
