So like I'm stuck with MRC decoders (I know). I'm trying to install one in a kato dash 9. Worked great except now the back end sticks up. Anyone else had this problem? Looks like a component of the decoder is preventing the shell from sitting on the frame properly. And suggestions? Do I dare mill the inside of the shell's roof? Ta!
Ooo, I cant help you from experience, but I want to say that milling the shell sounds like a bad idea. I'm sure someone will chime in here with better advice to get this problem solved, however if it comes down to it I would rather mill a sliver off the frame. You'll sacrifice a minuscule amount of weight, but you save the risk of ruining the shell.
I would make sure the decoder is properly seated, despite the fact that the locomotive runs well. Also try to seat the back end of the shell.
I was sure there are special info on the MRC site about this. Posting with my phone now. If no one finds it before I get home I'll look it up. Mark
MRC's Atlas U23B decoder also needs a bit of the frame removed. You don't need an expensive milling machine if you don't have one, an old fashioned file will do the job.
I just installed a MRC sound decoder on a Kato F40PH. The rear of the decoder did not sit flat. I filed off a bit of the plastic "gear tower" where the component on the PCB was hitting it. It then was flat, but the connection to the pickups was not good. I may solder a small wire from the pick ups to the top of the PCB. The other alternative is to tape the board down. This may not be a very long term fix as the tape may come loose.
Check to make sure the LED is not interfering with the light pipe or the roof. That would be my best guess without seeing pictures. If I remember the Dash 9 board is the same as the SD70 and AC4400. I have done few of those in SD70's and the LED's needed to be adjusted down to clear the top of the shell.
I remember reading it somewhere. May/June 2009 N-scale magizine shows how the body needs to be modified to fit. Mark
i installed a sound decoder in a c44-9w some months ago. if i remember correctly i had to file down the led a bit AND dremeled out the shell as well. no way of filing down the frame. btw, same procedure with some of the digitrax decoders. you need to work on the inside of the shell. ok , so here's what's to do : take off the shell. glue in the smokestack from the inside. glue in the removable radiator section. let dry for a while. then use a dremel set at low rpm. inside the shell, from the stack backwards you need to mill off some of the material. holding the shell with a cold and wet towel will help to keep the shell cool. start milling at the smoke stack. work toward the rear of the engine. BE CAREFUL AND GOOD LUCK ! had to do that with approx 20 engines because of a design change with digitrax decoders. out of these 20 shells i messed up one or two.
