Okay the need has finnally came. I need to switch scales do to space constrants. I need to know some stuff about N scale such as What is the N scale equivalant to a HO 18" and 22" radius and what is the standard that most units will do. What are the code tracks and whats the best to run EVERYTHING. What brand track is good. Is the Kato Track with a roadbed any good? And for those of you who want to ask about my HO stuff... no its not for sale. ------------------ Theres no such thing as having to many coal hoppers or GP40-2 when you model Chessie System LONG LIVE THE KITTEN!!! LONG LIVE BIG BLUE!!! LONG LIVE THE TIGER STRIPE!!! (I am one of those wierd Chessie,CR,BN Fans) I looked at DCC... and stayed DC!
I've also been down this road! I switched from HO and converted my layout over to N. HO is 1/87 scale and N is 1/160 but, for practical purposes, N can be considered as half the size. Your 18" radius curves basically turn into 36" (give or take)! I kept the same track plan and curves that are 22" minimum radius(except for a new branch line which has 9 3/4" min. curves). I will be able to someday add double track on the mainline too . I use Peco code 80 flex on my mainlines and Peco code 55 flex on sidings and branches. I have various Peco switches too (very nice!). Difficulty running 6 axle locos and unrealistic looking operations was my biggest reason for switching. To avoid this in N is why I kept the 22" curves, which now look great! I would not suggest going much under 18" on mainlines. Russ
Welcome to THE scale, Harold Like Russ, I would like to have large radius curves, but some parts of my double track section of main line have 12" curves, but they are ok with me, as they run fine, and heck, I have fun running the trains, which is what it is all about Now I have a digital camera, I will soon be posting pics of my layout. ------------------ Alan Curtis. Moderator. Member #12 The perfect combination - BNSF and N Scale! www.alancurtismodels.com Andersley Western Railroad Alan's American Gallery
Ohhh Yeahhh, been there done that !! I think you will find, like I have, N scale is equally as enjoyable as HO, or even more (I really think I am having more fun !!). Just remember, wider is always better on curves. Im trying for all 22" radius turns, except in my runaround yard where radius is a mere 10.5 (all of my engines still run well on it though...including a 4-8-4 steam engine with tender !!). I use Atlas flex and turnouts for a couple of reasons. First, I live in a remote area for modeling and Atals is the most readily available (only 65 miles away from the nearest hobby shop!). It is affordable as well. Yes it is code 100, but when it is ballasted you really can't tell. I have tried 3 different road bed types and find that cork is the best. A bit noisier than foam, but foam had too much give under the weight of the trains and is hard to use on turns. Since you are basically starting over, go DCC (that is my plan !!) since most engines come DCC ready these days!! Good luck and let us know how it is going!! Happy Modeling!! John P.S. I didn't sell any of my HO stuff either...saving it for someday!! ------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!! Proud to be NARA Member #14
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Chessie_SD50_8563: Okay the need has finnally came. I need to switch scales do to space constrants<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Bout Time!!! Anyway, 18" R HO curves would be considered 9 3/4" R curves in N scale, 22" R HO would correspond with the 11" R N scale. N scale also offers 19" R snap-track (all the above I mentioned are Atlas standard snap-track sections). Currently, I use all Atlas track products (code 80, but if you weather them they don't look too bad). When I move to my own house, I plan on using Micro-Engineering track. As for locos, Kato's new SD90MAC, one of the longest locomotives in regular operation today, can work on 11" R curves. I wouldn't recommend it. If you want to run modern stuff (or long steam, like challengers, big-boys, etc), the bigger the radius the better off you are. 15" R should be sufficient. Of course, yard and industrial trackage can be tighter, since locomotives would operate at a reduced speed. Welcome to N scale!!!! ------------------ Corey Lynch Pres - Rensselaer Model RR Society, NEB&W RR http://www.rpi.edu/~lynchc/Railfanning/railfanning.htm - My Site http://www.union.rpi.edu/railroad/ - NEB&W
When I first started contemplating N scale, I bought an Atlas set and built a small oval layout on ply wood, inside my HO stuff. It definitely looked pathetic. But I knew it was the better scale for a layout I was contemplating in my study. A friend I really respect always jokes about HO types not "getting" N scale. And I thought...I'm not getting it either. But then I saw some really great NTrack layouts at a train show and really liked the scale. N scale really doesn't stand on its own very well, like HO can on bare bones ply wood, but it looks great once you establish your scenery. As for your HO stuff. You sounded just like me for the last couple of years. But, my son and I took most of our stuff in and received a $500 credit and we got more great N scale goodies. We go to a friends house with some of our HO stuff, but we saved only the best. Lets face it, we have all bought junk; if you can, get rid of the poor stuff and keep the good: might as well get a credit and help yourself along on your N scale journey. N study A great place for a layout
I agree with earlier posters, N is just as much fun as HO. I had a large HO/HOn3 layout, and got transfered, and had to give it up. Well now I'm retired, and I am building a new laout, but this time in N, because it gives me the ability to operate more realisticly, in the space I have available. I Have 20 inch minimum, curves with easements on my main line, but I also have 10-12" radius on industrial tracks, and have no trouble. I would no recomend less than 14" anywhere on a mainline if you plane to run any long fixed wheel bases, and I would recomend even larger if you plan to run passenger trains or large locos. You can get away with as little as a 12" radius but trains with long cars will not look good on them, and nither will long strings of cars(such as coal train) look good going around tight radius curves. It really all depends very much on what you want to do with your RR.
As to track code the main ones are codes 83, 70, and 55, with some code 40 being used. The easiest to use is code 83, or peco code 55. Most newer locos, and rolling stock will operate fine on code 55, but alot of the older stuff needs code 83, unless you are will to change or modify the wheel sets on them. Micro Engineering make very nice code 55 track that looks more prototypical, but it is harder to work with, than Atlas, or Peco track.
Remeber people I am the one who ran Athearn 86 footers and C44-9W though 18" in HO. Sounds like ill be using 11 or so for the main (do to space constrants) and 9 3/4 on branches. Layout will be a 3 x 5 size ------------------ Theres no such thing as having to many coal hoppers or GP40-2 when you model Chessie System LONG LIVE THE KITTEN!!! LONG LIVE BIG BLUE!!! LONG LIVE THE TIGER STRIPE!!! (I am one of those wierd Chessie,CR,BN Fans) I looked at DCC... and stayed DC! [This message has been edited by Chessie_SD50_8563 (edited 25 January 2001).]
Ok, if you're going to do this right, click on "view all topics" for the N-Scale forum and START READING!You have a lot to learn Boy-O and just about every question you have asked has been covered here so far! But you and others will have more, so visit here OFTEN! YOU BETTER GET STARTED! Welcome to N-Scale! ------------------ Brent Tidaback, Member #234 BNSF Railfan-to-the Max and a N-Scaler to boot! Ship it on the Route of The Roadrunners! The Aransas Odessa & Western, a division of the BNSF
