Oh damn! Can you put a temporary tarp on the top of the RV for now? Be sure to turn off all power especially if you run DCC. Over the next few days, let it dry out before assessing the damage. A lot of the things in our hobby is plastic or non-rusting metal. I think you will have more damage to the RV than the MRR equipment.
Sorry to hear that. I'm north of you in SE Utah as you know. Sorry I'm not closer or I'd come by. We've had rain here but not near as much. Looks like a chance of snow there tonight and then clear skies. Maybe your son can come or hire some local to put a tarp on it before the next rain. Probably have to put new roofing material on going down the road. I'm doing that soon to a smaller camper I'm making. Not real expensive. Maybe that will be in the future. I'm with the others. Let it all dry out and it might be mostly ok, Sumner
I can now see and relate to how Jim Reising felt when his layout rooms flooded Thinking of all the work that will need to be done has me stressed. I will most likely will remove the ceiling panels as they are beyond soaked. I may even be able to actually see where the water is coming in. The upper cabinets will just have to dry out and hope for the best there as I dont wanna have to hassle with replacing those. The lower cabnets...I pray those dry well and dont warp. The flooring I will most likey replace...there is a half inch of water sitting on top of it. The carpet up front...dont even wanna think about that. The layout itself is stressing me the most. Years worth of work and can only hope for the best there too. The walls are sheetrock so there may be some cutting and replacing areas. The whole inside of the RV looks alot worse then the pictures actually show. It is supposed to be nice and sunny and warm tomorrow. I wil get an early start and clear off the layout and and workbench and begin to assess the damage. I just hope its not so depressing that I literally 'throw in the towel'
OH NO! This is every model railroaders worse nightmare. Yes, hopefully everything will dry out. Hopefully everything is not ruined. Hope that you fine where the leak is and be able to repair the roof of your RV.
Man, I wish I was closer so I can give you a hand. Your step by step analysis in your last post is what you need to do. Break it down into little pieces on paper and address each one with a plan of action. Sort of like when doctor's operate. They drape the person and leave an opening where they will be working on. This will provide concentration and less distraction. Don't look at it as a whole as that will stress you out and be disappointing. Which parts are the low hanging fruit (like throwing out the carpet)? Which will take more work (checking each loco and relubing)? Which is urgent and must be done as soon as possible regardless or ease? Etc.
George I would suggest maybe trying asphalt sealer, or as known as driveway sealant, over the entire roof, applied with a roller and a long extension handle, if it ever stops raining and dries out. I can relate to too old and disabled since my ladder climbing days ended when I had the stroke and now confined to low step ladders with Missus in attendance bracing me. Still if you can manage a ladder and then with a long extension handle on a paint roller it is doable. Not a permanent fix since all asphalt compounds will dry out eventually and crack but should last several years until you could get a new permanent roof. Open everything up and set fans in to dry. A dilute Clorox bleach solution in a sprayer takes care of mold. I did a quick check on the internet and there are a lot of articles about dealing with a leaky RV roof including product recommendations.
Wow George! I am so sorry to read this news. Like others, I wish I was closer so I could be of some help.
Thanks Guys. It's still a bit nippy to go out into a wet RV. Probably a few more hours at least. Weather forecast says about 4 days of sunny warmer weather before it turns nasty again. THE Wife says she will be more then happy to help clean up out there. She has been my partner in THERR RV since day one. She was actually quite concerned about her train...which in an odd way made me feel better. Thinking about it last night. There really are no buildings actually glued down to the layout. I know they are plastic and should be fine. The roofs are all cardboard which will have to be replaced. The lasercut wood buildings are worrying me though. If my memory from yesterday serves me...none of the locomotives really got wet. Lucky Penny Yard looked to have the least if any water on it. Going out to the shed shortly to see if I have a plastic tote with a lid on it that I can empty the contents into other totes. I will need to put everything inside THE RV gingerly into the tote to store it while I decide what to do. First area I need to get fixed is that roof. 8 years and multiple feet of snow on that roof and no problems with leaks. Same with many summer rain storms. How leveling THE RV caused so many leaks in so many places has me baffled ! Electrical issues is another worry. I wont be able to turn power on inside the RV until I am sure the RV power converter didnt get soaked. Going to have to remember to disconnect the DC power from the converter to the DCC system before I turn the 110V power on. Going to be a hectic 3 or 4 days before the next storm. Lots of coffee and long days.
George, I guess leaky RV and Mobile roofs are our only frustration with these things. However, I do repairs to these kind of roofs as a part of my business. It would be great if I could get down there and patch you up, but alas, I can't. I definitely feel for you! Here's a procedure I use. Whenever I have to seal joints on an RV or Mobile home roof I now use a two step process. After it is mostly dry, brush all the seams and edges with product called "Through the Roof." Push it in, but don't go back and forth. It is exceptional! It smells terrible, like old DAP cement, if you remember that stuff. The stuff will seal up the joints even if they are a little damp inside. You may need to go back in a couple of hours and retouch any holes or gaps you missed. Then, on the next dry and warm day about 3-4 days later, re-coat it with either white Elastomeric latex sealer of the Silver Seal (my preference.) The white elastomeric is easy to roll on and mix. The Silver Seal is asphalt based and has aluminum fibers in it, so it requires a lot of stirring to get it ready to apply as the particulate settles into the bottom of the can. I prefer it because once it is applied, it will be 5 or more years before I have to worry about it at all. The elastomeric is not quite as hardy. Sure wish I was closer.
Oh, and the process of leveling, twists the RV and so stresses the seams, which give us leaks. It is why I know that when I move the Trainshed I will be having to re-coat my roof seams also.
Thanks for the tips Alan... Going to have to coordinate with my oldest son on having him get here on his days off and me getting whatever I need purchsed to reseal that roof. Gotta get it leakproof and dry inside before any reconstruction can begin.
If you can't get your son there before the next rain period I'd try to get a 'good' tarp. I just got one of these ... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWAJNGK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ... to put on the camper I'm building in case I have to put it outside before the roofing material goes on. I'm impressed with the quality of it. I'm waiting for some warmer days so that I can put on the rubber roofing membrane like this ..... https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rv+rubbe...refix=rv+roof+mat,aps,196&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_11 It would be more work for you guys to do this but in the long run it might pay off. Here is a good video of a repair on a roof that was in really bad shape, hope yours is much better ... Sumner
